Author Topic: Problem with vevor compressor (Read 15351 times))

Madd Hatter · « **Reply #80 on:** August 11, 2019, 11:12:04 PM »

Quote from: USAFANG6799 on August 11, 2019, 04:41:28 PM

Quote
Duy has my receiver to mod and he's as busy as a 1 legged man in a butt kicking contest.

If you could get a video of this one One legged man trying to butt kick people an put it on YouTube You'd Be Rich beyond your wildest dreams

Naw, youtube wouldn't pay because it depicts violence. lol

Thane · « **Reply #81 on:** August 12, 2019, 04:12:09 PM »

My replacement second stage seal just let go, got a bit too hot.
Turned and polished one out of peek, much higher working temperature, abrasion resistance... than the original what appears to be acetal. Turned a check valve cone while I was at it.
Amazing result, it took 230cc cylinder from 1500 to 3000 in 25 secs with a large volume coalescing filter. Best yet. Temp didn't even have a chance to rise above 57c.

For twenty minutes of work we will see how long it lasts.

USAFANG6799 · « **Reply #82 on:** August 12, 2019, 06:46:37 PM »

Quote from: Thane on August 12, 2019, 04:12:09 PM

My replacement second stage seal just let go, got a bit too hot.
Turned and polished one out of peek, much higher working temperature, abrasion resistance... than the original what appears to be acetal. Turned a check valve cone while I was at it.
Amazing result, it took 230cc cylinder from 1500 to 3000 in 25 secs with a large volume coalescing filter. Best yet. Temp didn't even have a chance to rise above 57c.

For twenty minutes of work we will see how long it lasts.

Now this shows some real promise. Could be the answer to one of the weaker parts of of many of these small compressors.
Go PEEK GO!

Madd Hatter · « **Reply #83 on:** August 12, 2019, 07:08:05 PM »

Only thing I'm worried about is wear on the second stage cylinder. The original second stage ring is soft and wouldn't wear the cylinder near as much. I've bought 6 of the second stage rings for less than $8 delivered though it did take 3 weeks to arrive.

USAFANG6799 · « **Reply #84 on:** August 12, 2019, 08:54:55 PM »

Quote from: Robert Feddeler on August 12, 2019, 07:08:05 PM

Only thing I'm worried about is wear on the second stage cylinder. The original second stage ring is soft and wouldn't wear the cylinder near as much. I've bought 6 of the second stage rings for less than $8 delivered though it did take 3 weeks to arrive.

How long did your second stage rings last before you had to replace them?
Do you have an hour meter?

Thane · « **Reply #85 on:** August 12, 2019, 09:19:59 PM »

No hour meter attached. Just swapping seals and check valves as needed, 3 provided seals took me 15 months of use. Hour meter would let me know how much work was achieved, but it is no guarantee as to how long a seal will last because an overheat could wear out a new seal in minutes. Keeping it very cool is number 1... or use material with higher working temperatures.

Peek is twice as good at deflection temperature to 250°C vs. Acetal homo 125°C. Which is probably why the recommended working temp limit of 65-75°C at the alum collar. The piston seal temp would obviously be much higher since it's the part generating the pressure. Peek doubles the limit and with half the thermal expansion.

The Vevor only has 1 second stage piston seal, unlike the Yong Heng or Tuxing multiple ring piston seals. Vevor is much more susceptible to heat failure with the single seal. Also much easier to fab and replace a single seal, removable without removing the piston rod, just unscrew from the top.

So I am playing to the strengths of the configuration and strengthening a weak link. Which usually makes something else break... It may induce more wear to the steel sleeve, but it will definitely resist the heat.

Worth a try. I will let you know if it all goes to héll, but it may take a while which is what I'm hoping for.

USAFANG6799 · « **Reply #86 on:** August 12, 2019, 10:20:24 PM »

Quote

So I am playing to the strengths of the configuration and strengthening a weak link. Which usually makes something else break... It may induce more wear to the steel sleeve, but it will definitely resist the heat.

Worth a try. I will let you know if it all goes to héll, but it may take a while which is what I'm hoping for.

Yep that is exactly what happens.....ya move the problem to next weakest link.
But like you said it's worth a try.
Nothing ventured nothing gained.
I've got a new complete head coming in. Second stage went after 11 hours/year of use. A washer that holds the seals on the 2nd stage broke in half and the output air pressure dropped to like a 1/3. Never had an overheat problem at least according to the temp meter on the YH.
I'll rebuild the orginal an use it as a spare.

Madd Hatter · « **Reply #87 on:** August 21, 2019, 05:29:28 PM »

Well, the new burst disks I got from china are still popping at less than 3K psi when I filled my Liberty this morning. I just did a fill on my Liberty again this afternoon using 2 burst disks instead of one and it pressurized the Liberty to 3K and of course didn't pop. I'm watching the pressures the whole time as I'm only filling up my rifle. I did order some more from a different vender in china that claims the disks are 3.5 mm not the 2,8mm that the last ones ended up being. I got a feeling that the burst disks I bought before are made of copper instead of brass. I'm not sure what the pressure difference would be between the 2 metals. The compressor is suppose to be able to fill to 4500 psi darn it!!!!!

cosmic · « **Reply #88 on:** August 21, 2019, 05:58:19 PM »

You could use some aluminum can also..

Killfire · « **Reply #89 on:** August 21, 2019, 11:43:57 PM »

Quote from: Robert Feddeler on August 21, 2019, 05:29:28 PM

Well, the new burst disks I got from china are still popping at less than 3K psi when I filled my Liberty this morning. I just did a fill on my Liberty again this afternoon using 2 burst disks instead of one and it pressurized the Liberty to 3K and of course didn't pop. I'm watching the pressures the whole time as I'm only filling up my rifle. I did order some more from a different vender in china that claims the disks are 3.5 mm not the 2,8mm that the last ones ended up being. I got a feeling that the burst disks I bought before are made of copper instead of brass. I'm not sure what the pressure difference would be between the 2 metals. The compressor is suppose to be able to fill to 4500 psi darn it!!!!!

On my first tuxing I had the same problem. I doubled my disks and they never popped after. I'd just be cautious that whatever your filling has an accurate gauge because the cheapie Chinese ones on the compressors and various other gun gauges can be off by quite a lot.

If you want to change the compressor gauge, I know Wika gauges are American made and of good quality. You can get a 5k psi gauge with a 1.6% accuracy for ~$30 and would just need an adapter to thread it into the compressor head.

Madd Hatter · « **Reply #90 on:** August 31, 2019, 03:34:45 PM »

Well, I tried to fill the 66 cuft scba tank I just got with my vevor and after having to shut it down due to high temps 4 or 5 times managed to get it all of the way up to 500 psi. YEA!! I had the water temp going into the compressor down in the low 20C range and it still couldn't keep it's cool. PITA!!! Will keep at it but this is going to take a long time I fear. lol So tempted to pull the trigger on a F10 shoebox. I've got a commercial grade oil less compressor that will more than supply enough pressure to the F10. If I wan't in the process of trying to move out of Kali I would but may need the money for moving, the new house,etc, etc, etc.Think Youl Brenner in the king and I.

oldpro · « **Reply #91 on:** August 31, 2019, 03:42:00 PM »

Quote from: Robert Feddeler on August 31, 2019, 03:34:45 PM

Well, I tried to fill the 66 cuft scba tank I just got with my vevor and after having to shut it down due to high temps 4 or 5 times managed to get it all of the way up to 500 psi. YEA!! I had the water temp going into the compressor down in the low 20C range and it still couldn't keep it's cool. PITA!!! Will keep at it but this is going to take a long time I fear. lol So tempted to pull the trigger on a F10 shoebox. I've got a commercial grade oil less compressor that will more than supply enough pressure to the F10. If I wan't in the process of trying to move out of Kali I would but may need the money for moving, the new house,etc, etc, etc.Think Youl Brenner in the king and I.

Buy a Booster from Altaros its quiet fills fast and has no maintenance as long as theres a good water filter before it.

Thane · « **Reply #92 on:** August 31, 2019, 04:12:23 PM »

Peek seals working great, still early for long term comparison.
Just filled my 3L carbon bottle to 4300 Psi starting at 2800. Took less than fifteen minutes and stayed under 55C with ice in the bucket. Second stage really takes a lot of stress going over 4000, but I’m stress testing the peek, not babying it. It was a couple of similar fills that toasted one of my original seals.

Madd Hatter · « **Reply #93 on:** August 31, 2019, 04:54:00 PM »

I put ice in the 5 gal bucket and it was almost melted by the time I started to run the compressor. lol Temp was in the mid 90's which is a big part of the problem.

Madd Hatter · « **Reply #94 on:** September 20, 2019, 07:19:55 PM »

Well, I went ahead and changed out the second stage ring not that it really needed it but thought it had failed when I pumped up my Liberty to 4K psi to do a shot string. Turned out a O ring in the female coupler screwed up and started to leak. Man, what a PITA!!! The second stage piston was loose in the piston and I couldn't get the screw out to change the ring. Ended up taking the complete top end off of the compressor, fighting with the piston pin c clip and then finally getting it out clamped the second stage piston between to pieces of wood tightened the screw under the piston head and finally was able to get the screw out of the second stage ring. I actually had to use a impact driver to get the darn thing loose. Then when I reinstalled the screw I had a heck of a time getting it tight enough so the screw head wouldn't hit the head. Then the compressor wouldn't turn over at all. Had to use a screw driver to turn the fan so the motor had a little run up before stopping. Did that about 10 times before it would finally run. I even ran it for a few min. with out the head so the ring had a chance to loosen up a little. I gotta tell you that all of the parts looked real good with no bad wear marks to be found. The rod looked nice and smooth with no gualling. The piston still had the machining marks from when it was made so hopefully it means it's going to last awhile.

I do have to say that it runs a lot quieter than it did. The second stage piston wasn't all that loose but I guess with as much pressure that was pushing on it was enough.

Madd Hatter · « **Reply #95 on:** September 22, 2019, 08:50:51 PM »

I don't know what broke loose in my compressor but it was plugging up the output where the hose attaches. I'd start it up and when I closed the bleed valves it would shoot up to 4K psi so quick it wasn't funny. I took the hose off and started up the compressor to see what was happening. I had just closed the high pressure bleed valve when the white plastic washer that the hose seals against shot out and hit my hand right where the first knuckle of my right index finger is aka trigger finger. Darn thing drew blood too. OUCH!!!! Have no idea what was causing the blockage but when I replaced the white plastic sealing ring with one from the spare parts and screwed in the hose it worked just fine. It fills my rifle up a lot faster than it did before I replaced the second stage ring. I wonder if what ever plugged up the out let was causing a restriction of the airflow from where ever it broke loose from?

avator · « **Reply #96 on:** September 22, 2019, 08:55:43 PM »

Sounds like maybe you have been closing the bleeder too tightly and mushed the white seal. You should be fine now, just don't crank it closed so hard, just enough for it to not leak.

Madd Hatter · « **Reply #97 on:** September 22, 2019, 09:17:29 PM »

Thing is is, it didn't give me problems until after I had the complete top end off and reinstalled.

PoolDoc · « **Reply #98 on:** September 22, 2019, 09:28:01 PM »

I believe I remember reading about the white washer on the fill whip being crushed too tight. The hole when crushed closes and will reduce flow and can increase pressure due to a total or partial blockage? Maybe

avator · « **Reply #99 on:** September 22, 2019, 09:38:14 PM »

Quote from: Robert Feddeler on September 22, 2019, 09:17:29 PM

Thing is is, it didn't give me problems until after I had the complete top end off and reinstalled.

Something may have been dislodged during the repair and plugged it up.. I'm just taking stabs at the cause here.

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Problem with vevor compressor

Author Topic: Problem with vevor compressor (Read 15351 times))