1st attempt

[triggertreat]

For fluxing, I like to use Frankford Arsenal CleanCast Lead Flux.  It doesn't take much in a 20lb pot, just a pinch or two.  I also like to cover the top with a few pinches after rendering with Paraffin wax to keep oxygen out of the pot.  I tried the sawdust once, the Frankford is much cleaner.  I can't say I've had much clogging issues up until recently.  I'll blame it on the sawdust, lol.


I asked an employee at HD to sweep up some sawdust the last time I was there.  It's free, so I thought I would try it in my bottom pour.  Never again in there.

[miksatx]

For fluxing, I like to use Frankford Arsenal CleanCast Lead Flux.  It doesn't take much in a 20lb pot, just a pinch or two.  I also like to cover the top with a few pinches after rendering with Paraffin wax to keep oxygen out of the pot.  I tried the sawdust once, the Frankford is much cleaner.  I can't say I've had much clogging issues up until recently.  I'll blame it on the sawdust, lol.

Thanks Keith I'll order some up and give it a try. How much paraffin?

[Kinetic45^]

I'm always trying to test and find a better product so here's what I'm using now:

Beeswax in easy dispensing form


I was using Frankford but...
As per Knifemaker, Frankford is basically borax so I ordered this and am trying it.

[miksatx]

I'm always trying to test and find a better product so here's what I'm using now:

Beeswax in easy dispensing form


I was using Frankford but...
As per Knifemaker, Frankford is basically borax so I ordered this and am trying it.

Thanks Carl it's great info. The soldering powder is interesting I've fabricated a lot of silver jewelry but always used a liquid to with solder. Tips on how you use each product would sure help.

[Kinetic45^]

Every time I add lead to the pot, let it reach temperature then drop in 6 or 8 of the wax pellets ( holding a BBQ put 'long' butane lighter in one hand and my stir spoon ready in the other. As the beeswax starts smoking , I light it and then stir it to reduce the tin oxide back to tin in the melt.  If you light the smoke it burns cleaner and does not smoke up your shop.

Then, after the beeswax, I put in a teaspoon of borax flux and stir it again to pull out other impurities.
I'm still using sawdust to cap the melt and hold oxidization down, contrary to what others are saying/doing and have never seen any problems.  I just put some on top of the floating borax so maybe that's why?

[triggertreat]

This is the paraffin wax I use.  $3 a pound at any local grocery store.  Can't get much cheaper than that, and last forever.   I just cut off a very small chunk and toss it in to render the tin back into the lead.  After that, I sprinkle in a few pinches of the Frankford and stir around, then dip out the dross.  I then drop a few more pinches in to coat the top and seal it off from oxygen.  Shop around for the Frankford.  Prices are all over the place.  I paid $11.52 shipped off eBay, but have seen it for $8 since somewhere else.  It's clean and very easy to work with.  Might try Carl's trick next, but it will be awhile before I run out.

I don't keep adding any lead back in from the sprue cuts that would break the top seal and introduce oxygen back in.  I wait until I need to add in more lead on a low lead supply before doing all of this all over again.

[Kinetic45^]

This is the paraffin wax I use.  $3 a pound at any local grocery store.  Can't get much cheaper than that, and last forever.   I just cut off a very small chunk and toss it in to render the tin back into the lead.  After that, I sprinkle in a few pinches of the Frankford and stir around, then dip out the dross.  I then drop a few more pinches in to coat the top and seal it off from oxygen.  Shop around for the Frankford.  Prices are all over the place.  I paid $11.52 shipped off eBay, but have seen it for $8 since somewhere else.  It's clean and very easy to work with.  Might try Carl's trick next, but it will be awhile before I run out.

I don't keep adding any lead back in from the sprue cuts that would break the top seal and introduce oxygen back in.  I wait until I need to add in more lead on a low lead supply before doing all of this all over again.

Yah, any old hydrocarbon works.
I've even used old motor oil....
Bacon grease, toilet bowl rings, junk bullet lube, etc...
But somehow, down through the years, I just 'felt' that when I used real wax it worked better.

[miksatx]

Fantastic Keith and Carl you guys knocked out of the park! These tips are what I needed to know! Thanks so much.

[triggertreat]

Hey Michael, check out this PID controller build:


 

Here's how to program it: 




I built one and it works great at keeping the melt at a constant temp for better cast results.  No more temp rises as the pot level drops. 

It's a fairly easy build, just gotta gather up the parts, which are listed at the bottom of the vids.  I got most of my parts off eBay and Walmart.

Here's what mine looks like:

[miksatx]

Hey Michael, check out this PID controller build:


 

Here's how to program it: 




I built one and it works great at keeping the melt at a constant temp for better cast results.  No more temp rises as the pot level drops. 

It's a fairly easy build, just gotta gather up the parts, which are listed at the bottom of the vids.  I got most of my parts off eBay and Walmart.

Here's what mine looks like:

Thanks Keith I'll give it a watch and some though. Seems that my spare truck wants a new fuel pump? Not sure what I'm going to be doing for the next week lol.

[miksatx]

Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a screw driver to stir my pot?

[rintafile]

Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a screw driver to stir my pot?

No. But keep that screw driver on that job only. It may lose magnetic tip because temperature ruins that but dosen't matter if you only use it for stirring pot.

[Kinetic45^]

One of those cheap stainless spoons works too.

[miksatx]

Thanks Teemu & Carl sure need something thinner to stir with lol.

[BSJ]

Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a screw driver to stir my pot?

Does it have a plastic handle?

[miksatx]

Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a screw driver to stir my pot?

Does it have a plastic handle?

Yes.

[BSJ]

Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a screw driver to stir my pot?

Does it have a plastic handle?

Yes.

Plastic that will melt at 600°+?

[miksatx]

Plastic that will melt at 600°+?

Thanks for the info. BSJ.

[Kinetic45^]

One day about 30 years ago while in a pawn shop I saw a tub of misc tableware, I picked up a butter knife to scrape the pot sides (stirs too) and a fairly long handled tablespoon that for skimming the top.
Worked great since then.
High priced tools are not needed here is what I was trying to convey earlier.
Just never ever use them for anything else like food again because even if they are stainless, don't take a chance that lead might get introduced to food.

[triggertreat]

Is there any reason why I shouldn't use a screw driver to stir my pot?

I like using the Lee ladle.  First because it's cheap, but mostly because I can stir the pot well and pull up lead from the bottom, and scrape the sides, too.  It is also great for removing the dross and for dropping multiple small lead pieces like rejected bullets back into the hot lead safely away from any splatter.  You'd be fairly limited with a screwdriver as to what you can do with it.

If with ladle, be sure and rest it on top of the lead for a minute before diving in with it.  Condensate from anything is explosive once below the lead surface.