Hatsan Valve Versions

[Lefusil]

I recently got a Hatsan AT44, and a spare air tube for it.  For a given hammer strike setting, velocity behavior is quite different depending on the tube used.  I took a closer look, and the tubes have different valve designs, and different valve spring rates.  The one with the black plastic inlet came with the gun, and is much stiffer to open.
I would like to have valves that are reasonably well matched.  Ultimately I also would like to regulate them, and I have a hatsan regulator that will only fit the design with the white inlet.
Can I buy just the valve part?  Other options?
Anyone know the part numbers of these two valves?

EDIT: I found this after doing some digging about the regulators.
"The original AT44 series rifles used a white plastic plug, and require CR-H1-HA90420. Current production AT44 series and BullBoss rifles use a threaded spring cover and require CR-H1-HA90435."

[Tucobenedicto]

Here in europe you can buy the only spare valve
https://www.militaryshop24.eu/prodotto/valvola-hatsan-at44-gladius-set/
No part number in this site.

[elguapo99]

Rich,
I have the same scenario with my .22 cal. AT44. Two air tubes with different valve types. I also have the Hatsan regulator that fits the white inlet. I have decided that the regulator is not the way to go for me as the regulator plenum is too small to get the power that I want. I don't bother with the regulator and instead just top off the air cylinder as needed. If you'd like another Hatsan reg and white inlet cylinder, I'd be willing to trade both of them for your black inlet air cylinder.

[AThomas]

I recently got a Hatsan AT44, and a spare air tube for it.  For a given hammer strike setting, velocity behavior is quite different depending on the tube used.  I took a closer look, and the tubes have different valve designs, and different valve spring rates.  The one with the black plastic inlet came with the gun, and is much stiffer to open.
I would like to have valves that are reasonably well matched.  Ultimately I also would like to regulate them, and I have a hatsan regulator that will only fit the design with the white inlet.
Can I buy just the valve part?  Other options?
Anyone know the part numbers of these two valves?

EDIT: I found this after doing some digging about the regulators.
"The original AT44 series rifles used a white plastic plug, and require CR-H1-HA90420. Current production AT44 series and BullBoss rifles use a threaded spring cover and require CR-H1-HA90435."

The valves with the white inlet is the older style valve. Don't think they make them anymore. The other is a second generation valve that is brass. In the latest version they changed from brass to steel. You can order just the valve from HatsanUSA. Part number is 2317. They were 49.99. Second option is to get a refurbished air cylinder.

[Rallyshark]

I recently got a Hatsan AT44, and a spare air tube for it.  For a given hammer strike setting, velocity behavior is quite different depending on the tube used.  I took a closer look, and the tubes have different valve designs, and different valve spring rates.  The one with the black plastic inlet came with the gun, and is much stiffer to open.
I would like to have valves that are reasonably well matched.  Ultimately I also would like to regulate them, and I have a hatsan regulator that will only fit the design with the white inlet.
Can I buy just the valve part?  Other options?
Anyone know the part numbers of these two valves?

EDIT: I found this after doing some digging about the regulators.
"The original AT44 series rifles used a white plastic plug, and require CR-H1-HA90420. Current production AT44 series and BullBoss rifles use a threaded spring cover and require CR-H1-HA90435."

A Huma regulator will work with both valve types.  You can change out the valve spring to try and get them closer in velocity.  You can also grind down the tip of the valve pin on the faster valve to bring the velocity down.  I use one cylinder regulated, and a second unregulated cylinder for high power applications myself

[Lefusil]

A Huma regulator will work with both valve types.  You can change out the valve spring to try and get them closer in velocity.  You can also grind down the tip of the valve pin on the faster valve to bring the velocity down.  I use one cylinder regulated, and a second unregulated cylinder for high power applications myself

I actually ordered a huma today.

[Rallyshark]

A Huma regulator will work with both valve types.  You can change out the valve spring to try and get them closer in velocity.  You can also grind down the tip of the valve pin on the faster valve to bring the velocity down.  I use one cylinder regulated, and a second unregulated cylinder for high power applications myself

I actually ordered a huma today.

Smart man

[rsterne]

I have never seen the black one.... Interesting that Hatsan have changed the design....

Bob

[Lefusil]

I have never seen the black one.... Interesting that Hatsan have changed the design....

I think the black one is a better design for a stiff valve spring as the black inlet piece is threaded into the valve body.  The spring is probably double the rate of the older version.

[Rallyshark]

I have never seen the black one.... Interesting that Hatsan have changed the design....

Bob

Yessir, they made that change a year or two ago.  I actually like the newer version better myself.  I think it breathes a bit better, and can be made to breathe even better easily. 

[Mike pr]

I took a bottle from a bullboss and tried to screw it on my AT44
the brass  was some mm bigger so it didnt fit !

[redlined_b16a]

My bullboss and at44 tubes fit both of my guns.

[Rallyshark]

I took a bottle from a bullboss and tried to screw it on my AT44
the brass  was some mm bigger so it didnt fit !

That's odd.  You're the first person I remember seeing with this problem.  My second cylinder is actually an AT44 short(180cc) cylinder.  I swapped out the AT44 long cylinders many times on my BB as well, before I sold my AT44. 

[Back_Roads]

 I have swapped between 3 different ats and no issue, are you sure maybe the o ring isn't stopping it from touching the threads, some times it takes a little push with a wiggle to get the threads to catch.