Do-it-yourself barrel shortening/recrowning

[Steelhead]

I got weary of my Texan's inconsistency so I decided to make a drastic change. I've casted/weighed/sized bullets, got a regulator, and spent hours of range time and I still can't take the performance to the next level. I had a gift certificate for Harbor Freight so I decided to load up on some needed tools and try to work on the barrel at the same time. I bought a Chicago bandsaw, various counter sinks, a Chinese-made Dremel-like tool, and a bunch of sanding attachments.

I cut a 1/2" of the barrel off. The cut started to go sideways and I realized I was using too much pressure. I backed off and just took off another half inch and that got it done. Once I had it cut off I cleaned it up with a disc grinder so it was nice and flat. I used the counter sink I bought and gently put a nice flare on the end. A little hand sanding and VOILA! Done with that end of the barrel. I went through my drill bits and found the perfect size to fit into the chamber. I put some blue tape on the bit to act as a depth guide and GENTLY worked it into the chamber. I also put some oil on the bit so I didn't mess anything up. I kept checking it with a 154 gr. bullet until I could seat it all of the in with the bullet base flush against the end of the opening. I used the Dremel tool/fine grit tip and polished it smooth. After that I used my regular cleaning agents to make sure there were no metal flakes or sand grit anywhere on the barrel and put it all back together.

The only way you can tell anything was done is the shiny end of the barrel. Once I put my moderator back on you can't even tell. I noticed that it's going to be lighter to hold since by shortening the barrel it's not nearly as front heavy with the shroud on.

I've done so much work to my gun over the best year and a half...I'm hoping that this takes it to another level entirely. I can't wait to shoot and see how it groups. Oh, by the way, it's April 1st. And if you believed any of that you are indeed an April Fool!!! 

[Kinetic45^]

Trained as a gunsmith in 1981 and have worked part time a lot since then... having seen what some customers have brought in I would believe anything.

The stories I could tell you about DIY barrel shortening jobs, chamber mods, welding on barrels or nightmare trigger lightning, etc. would stand your hair straight up.
But it can be done well at home without a lathe using hand tools, first tool to pick up: some common sense, second tool: research the tricks and tips of how to do it from others who have done it successfully

[Verminstalker]

first tool to pick up: some common sense, second tool: research the tricks and tips of how to do it from others who have done it successfully

+1

[starlingassassin]

hahahaha you got 2 hahaha make that 3 hahahahaa

[RobertMcC]

When I did my barrel. I cut it with a hacksaw, 1/8" longer than I wanted. I threw my drill in the vise. Mounted the barrel into the drill chuck. Drilled a hole in a 2x4, slide it over the barrel, lined it up, and screw it to my bench. That way I could put force on the barrel without it flexing as much. Then I just took copper wire wrapped it around the drill and controlled the speed like that. Then I just made a plate to rest files, to square up the muzzle.

Now it wasn't lathe quality, But it was couldn't tell with naked eye.

Now I'm thinking getting a long floor drill press. So to square up. I make a center support, clamp a file to the table, and lower the barrel down. Did that with my P17 barrel in my smaller drill press.

[KnifeMaker]

I don't have a lathe, so after I cut what I need off the barrel, I put the barrel in a very trued up mill table vice, and mill the muzzle truly flat and square with a 1/2" dia. Carbide end mill at fairly high speed. This leave a true, and  flat muzzle. The lightly counter sink using ceramic tapered rod.  and uee the brass round head screw method with corse and finally fine grit and them ultra fine polish. All this is done "after" the fire lapping and hand polishing of the bore.


For the breech, I under drill, the end blend with a very fine rubber abrasive bullet point on an industrial grade Fordum grinder. (A jeweler's grade tool similar to a hanging Dremel).


I keep at it until the bullet I want to use sets flush with the breech in an AF AG, or just past the port on a typical PCP barrel. This snugs the  bullet into place, and lightly engages the rifling which is nicely tapered and polished into the rifling. 


I was told by a very smug member on another forum that this couldn't possibly work. Only a chamber ream would work. somehow my guns always out shot his. By a good bit. A very good bit. 



This in not the prefered method, but it gets my .257's down to around 1/2" and under at 100 yards, so I guess it works well for a shade tree machinist. LOL!

[rkr]

I don't have a lathe either, kids were missing their roller board when I worked with this barrel 

[KnifeMaker]

Now that is just cool Ric! I'm still trying to figure out how to grove the breech for an o ring. GRRRR!!!


Any ideas?


Mike

[avator]

Not sure I can even count the number of barrels I whacked of with a hacksaw and finished off with a file and various bits in a cordless drill. All with great results.
Case in point.... the FireCat.
Just took my time and paid attention to detail.

[rkr]

Now that is just cool Ric! I'm still trying to figure out how to grove the breech for an o ring. GRRRR!!!


Any ideas?


Mike

Put the o-ring on the probe. O-ring groove on the probe is easy with a bench drill.

[KnifeMaker]

Ric, I was just wondering how to make them aslt or work with the Mag. If no mag is used, I have already found a couple of ways to not need an o ringa at all.   


No issue cutting an o ring groove in the mill at all. 

[rkr]

Ric, I was just wondering how to make them aslt or work with the Mag. If no mag is used, I have already found a couple of ways to not need an o ringa at all.   


No issue cutting an o ring groove in the mill at all. 

BSA uses o-ring on the probe with magazines and it works just fine. I'd give it a go.

[KnifeMaker]

Ric, the bolt has seen better days, so waiting on an answer from PA. on a few parts. If they have a new bolt probe for me,I will test the one I have with a o o'ring groove cut into it. 


I am looking at sleeving the probe body, as it under sized as it is. the old Rapids une no O ring, only a interference fit of the bolt probe to the barrel. Thinking of doing eh same thing Sounds like a worthwhile experiment ot me. fit.

[rkr]

Those evanix probes are not hard to DIY if you can't get a new one. Piece of brass rod, bench drill, hand tools and an hour or two.

[KnifeMaker]

Been thinking of cutting it shorter, threading it, and making screw on probes. This would allow different calibers without an entire new bolt. 

[rkr]

Been thinking of cutting it shorter, threading it, and making screw on probes. This would allow different calibers without an entire new bolt. 

And you could change the caliber without taking the whole gun apart, just change the probe nose and barrel - 2 minute job. Good thinking there! Although from manufacturing point of view it's about as much trouble to make those threads than it is to make the rear of the probe.