Author Topic: New Year, new... project (Read 9671 times))

YEMX · « **on:** December 31, 2018, 10:18:00 PM »

Kinda...

I'm "getting back" to the 6mm project. Some slight changes. I wanted to build something similar to the .17 HMaiR, at least in looks... So here's my version (pretty much the same thing, slight changes):

Starting with a used Gen2 .25 Marauder (well THAT'S certainly a first!):

- 28" 6mm barrel. threads at the muzzle, 18mm O.D. CF sleeve
- Cothran Valve
- JSAR 2024 Aluminium main tube. 29" OAL
- JSAR MDS hammer
- JSAR TSS
- Hill High Volume Gauge Port
- Boyd's Pro Varmint stock

Same plan as before, enlarge part of the bore in the breech for the 18mm O.D. barrel sleeve, 1.25" deep. Bore-sized TP... Then just enjoy it.

I didn't want to do another bottle build, I know- I'm sacrificing a lot of shots... But it's a touch cheaper this way, and if I want a lot of shots I can always tether it.

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #1 on:** January 01, 2019, 08:40:38 AM »

tom, thinking about trying it in a RainStorm II.Plenty of power on tap for it. Will hit 110 fpe in the .257 without stressing it too much.

Should make for a great .172! First however, still testing the .257 and have a 26.5 inch bbl coming from Oneshot for it.

Mike

YEMX · « **Reply #2 on:** January 01, 2019, 11:04:43 AM »

You know, the Rainstorm2 was one of the platforms I was considering for the 6mm idea... But I really like the look/simplicity of Ced's HMaiR...

Now- a .172 Rainstorm sounds pretty cool!!!

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #3 on:** January 19, 2019, 05:19:05 PM »

Oddly enough, even though Evanix list a .177 rainstorm, no one seems to carry them. Probably too much power for a .177. LOL.

Reason for looking is to try and source a .177 mag for the project.

Mike

gendoc · « **Reply #4 on:** January 19, 2019, 06:02:16 PM »

you done good with the gen2 mrod, internal parts available at the drop of a hat !!

YEMX · « **Reply #5 on:** February 01, 2019, 06:56:51 PM »

Kind of a weird question- maybe not?

Should I have a .25 bolt modified to work with this 6mm build? Or should I modify a .22 bolt? Are the back ends of the bolts the same, so it wouldn't really matter, considering the nature of the bolt modification? I'm fixin' to order some more parts, and was just wondering which bolt to use... I'm thinking just modify a .25 bolt? What say you?

KnifeMaker · « **Reply #6 on:** February 02, 2019, 12:15:47 AM »

Wouldn't take much to mod a .25 bolt.

I mean,if it different. Otherwise, I would use a .177 bolt.

ShakySarge · « **Reply #7 on:** February 02, 2019, 12:18:52 AM »

The Gen 2 .25 bolt would not take much at all to modify. A bit beefier which leaves room for tapping or a sleeve

YEMX · « **Reply #8 on:** February 02, 2019, 11:49:29 AM »

I figured I should use a .25 bolt with a .25 breech, I just wanted to be sure before I order- these things are about or over $20 each!! I need to order 2- one for this 6mm build, and another for my .25 slug gun build.

Thanks again y'all! Again, I'll keep y'all posted when I can.

YEMX · « **Reply #9 on:** February 10, 2019, 10:40:52 AM »

Many more parts ordered for the 6mm build. Planning on sending out the parts that need to be modified soon. Since this is just one project I'm working on, I want to send out all the parts that need to be modified at the same time, that way everything gets done efficiently. The modifications are the same, it's just different calibers. I'll keep y'all posted!

YEMX · « **Reply #10 on:** February 19, 2019, 08:26:15 PM »

I got all (I think) the small parts in for this build... Now I just need to the parts that need to be modified/machined to my machinist...

I'm still waiting on my JSAR Aluminium main tube, hopefully I'll get it soon...

I'm waiting for the 1st to get my Cothran valve... A few more weeks, and I should be ready to assemble... I CAN'T WAIT!!

Then I'll just need to order a N.C. LDC for this build, and I should be good to go for test/tune!

rsterne · « **Reply #11 on:** February 19, 2019, 08:49:23 PM »

You could even leave the bolt at .25 cal and make a custom chamber.... Make it to fit the bolt behind the barrel port, where the O-ring lives, and then taper it down to 6mm through the barrel port area.... and then 6mm and parallel ahead of that for the chamber.... I mean you are only talking about 0.006" smaller.... I did this in my Hayabusa Mk.II for a .308 bullet and barrel with a .357 bolt (they share the same receiver and bolt) and for a .224 bullet and barrel with a .257 bolt (ditto), and both chamber smooth as butter.... and those are a lot bigger steps in the chambers.... The key is to keep the diameter change far enough behind the parallel chamber that the bullet is guided into the rifling straight by the chamber....

Bob

YEMX · « **Reply #12 on:** February 19, 2019, 09:25:29 PM »

Quote from: rsterne on February 19, 2019, 08:49:23 PM

You could even leave the bolt at .25 cal and make a custom chamber.... Make it to fit the bolt behind the barrel port, where the O-ring lives, and then taper it down to 6mm through the barrel port area.... and then 6mm and parallel ahead of that for the chamber.... I mean you are only talking about 0.006" smaller.... I did this in my Hayabusa Mk.II for a .308 bullet and barrel with a .357 bolt (they share the same receiver and bolt) and for a .224 bullet and barrel with a .257 bolt (ditto), and both chamber smooth as butter.... and those are a lot bigger steps in the chambers.... The key is to keep the diameter change far enough behind the parallel chamber that the bullet is guided into the rifling straight by the chamber....

Bob

I had this in my head when everyone confirmed my thought on using a .25 bolt for the build... Good to know the idea will work!!

YEMX · « **Reply #13 on:** March 04, 2019, 02:39:09 PM »

Not too much of an update- I'm going to deviate a little bit from the original plan. I saw a Cobra valve for sale for a price I couldn't pass up. So instead of the Cothran valve, I'm going to use a WAR Cobra valve...

Except for all the small bits, the only thing I'm waiting to buy is the Boyd's stock... Once I get the Cobra valve in, I can send off the breech, valve, tube and bolt to be modified and have a TP made. Then I can work on getting all the small bits.

YEMX · « **Reply #14 on:** March 06, 2019, 10:21:45 AM »

Question for the guru's: Since I'm going with a WAR Cobra valve, should I regulate the gun? I'll be using a TSS and MDS hammer... Just wondering.

YEMX · « **Reply #15 on:** March 09, 2019, 10:10:26 PM »

I received the WAR Cobra valve, and I got notification that my Aluminium tube has been shipped, and will be here soon...

YEMX · « **Reply #16 on:** March 11, 2019, 10:22:50 PM »

I got my new tube today- it is so light! At 29" OAL, it's perfectly spaced behind the muzzle when the fill adapter and dust cap is on. There's also enough room for a slip on LDC mount as well!! I'm going to "glue" it on w/some Loctite 648...

Now I can start getting the parts that need to be modified together and send it to my machinist... Oh man, can't wait!!

YEMX · « **Reply #17 on:** April 16, 2019, 10:17:54 PM »

Well, I found out that the valve I have isn't a WAR Cobra valve- but it is a WAR valve... No worries- I'll probably pick up a Cothran valve soon for this build...

kkarmical · « **Reply #18 on:** April 16, 2019, 11:32:24 PM »

Quote from: YEMX on April 16, 2019, 10:17:54 PM

Well, I found out that the valve I have isn't a WAR Cobra valve- but it is a WAR valve... No worries- I'll probably pick up a Cothran valve soon for this build...

Tom,

The WAR valve is easier to make more power, just wasn't the most efficient - that's what Travis says.
I have a Cobra Valve but before that I used the standard WAR Valve it puts out the horses.

YEMX · « **Reply #19 on:** April 17, 2019, 12:11:51 AM »

Quote from: kkarmical on April 16, 2019, 11:32:24 PM

Quote from: YEMX on April 16, 2019, 10:17:54 PM
Well, I found out that the valve I have isn't a WAR Cobra valve- but it is a WAR valve... No worries- I'll probably pick up a Cothran valve soon for this build...

Tom,

The WAR valve is easier to make more power, just wasn't the most efficient - that's what Travis says.
I have a Cobra Valve but before that I used the standard WAR Valve it puts out the horses.

~~But does it open as easy as a Cothran? Also, the exhaust port is only .20", whereas the Cothran is .25"...~~

Well, I feel like an idiot... I DO have a Cobra valve, the exhaust port is still .20"... I saw a picture of a Gen 1 WAR valve, and I was thinking of my custom made BAM 50 valve that looks the same. *FACEPALM* I had confused the two.

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New Year, new... project

Author Topic: New Year, new... project (Read 9671 times))