Krytox or Dry Graphite for Hammer lube

[Rimshot]

Its time to clean my Flex and Mrod. Its been a few years since I cleaned the Mrod and the last time I did I used a little moly on the hammer. The Flex I used dry graphite on the hammer. Now I have been reading about Krytox and wonder if I should try that.

I know the moly has to go. My thought is that the Dry Graphite just needs a puff applied to the hammer area once and awhile and doesnt gum up or need further cleaning. I dont know much about Krytox like how long the lube lasts or how often before you clean it off and reapply. I know it expensive but Im not concerned with that.

Any insight would be helpful..

Thanks
Rim

[Motorhead]

No krytox or oils on hammers ... attracts & holds dirt, action becomes inconsistent due to drag.
Run it dry or use a dry lube.

IMO of course ...

[mobilehomer]

Dry moly powder or tungsten disulfide powder. I have both and the tungstun is a little more slick.

[Back_Roads]

 Fan of Moly Powder myself on metal 2 metal.

[Rimshot]

When you say dry are you saying no lube at all? Also what would be an example of a dry lube?

Thanks
Rim

[Back_Roads]

If metals are hard enough and matched they do not wear as fast as one may thunk.

[Motorhead]

When you say dry are you saying no lube at all? Also what would be an example of a dry lube?

Thanks
Rim

Some instances ... YES bone dry !
Hardened steel hammers in anodized alloy tube/receivers is one such "DRY" application.  MDS nylon hammers as well run "Dry"

[oldpro]

 I run everything bone dry and clean but polished. Graphite attracts moisture and any wet lubes or oils attracts dirt, so i run everything DRY.

[CraigH]

I burnish the hammer portion of the tube with a small amount 65% moly paste (MolyKote M77) and wipe all residue afterwards.

[KnifeMaker]

Not to forget that graphite is corrosive to alu. 

[cosmic]

Dry moly for me...

[AlanMcD]

I've tried most options, and I have found the best results with spray on Moly - works much better than Moly paste as that is not really a dry lube.
 Here is what I use: 

I simply coat the hammer, and even the inside of the tube, let it dry, and then assemble.  I also do my triggers the same way now.

[PakProtector]

On my Flex and Marauders I run moly powder. Got about a half an OZ sampled to me of some very fine powder. I don't quite go full dry; I have a 2" felt patch with maybe 2 drops of oil on it. I rub the tube and hammer after applying a bit of powder to the patch. Now the Flex hammer is much more closely fit to the ID of the pressure tube. And it is a bit longer...leads to a precise sear engagement I think.
cheers,
Douglas

[triggertreat]

Clean and polished as can be and bone dry for both the hammer and the area in the air tube the hammer slides on.  Anything else is asking for trouble with ES.

[oneshot61]

Clean and polished as can be and bone dry for both the hammer and the area in the air tube the hammer slides on.  Anything else is asking for trouble with ES.

 +1... my Es always suffers any other way. Tube and hammer highly polished. Even my mds with 1500 grit.

[Kinetic45^]

I have dropped the teflon,  moly and graphite and after polishing just use a faint dusting of tungsten sulfide.

As per the question of what 'dry' means, it can be two ways, either it's no oil or wax that may or may not be a carrier base for example moly, graphite, Teflon, etc.  Or it can mean no lubrication at all, just metal to metal.

I'd like others opinions but I DO lubricate trigger and bolt surfaces while carefull to not get any into the hammer zone

[nervoustrigger]

I still like a mix of 1-2um molybdenum disulfide powder and light oil (by light I mean water viscosity), mixed 50/50 by volume and wiped onto the surfaces with a foam mop or watercolor brush.

I was about 3 years into modding airguns before I picked up on the concerns of a "wet" lubricant adversely affecting the extreme spread, but I presently have 7 regulated PCPs and 6 of them hold a 1-2% ES.  Generally 1 - 1.5% for good pellets and closer to 2 - 2.5% for cheap pellets.  The only one that doesn't is the SPA PP700S-A because of its wonky factory regulator.  So while I don't doubt that others have had issues with a "wet" lubricant, this approach has worked exceedingly well for me.  Perhaps it's because the lubricant is used so sparingly and the oil is water thin.

[JoeKool]

Run it dry.  Or you’ll get erratic velocities happened to me.  Cleaned it off and velocities stabilized an became consistent again.

[Pelletjunkie]

I use 3 in 1 dry lube. I put it on and in the hammer spring then on the hammer using a Q-tip. Never had any problems associated with it. Bought it at Lowe’s.