Yippy Skippy!!!!!!

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Guess what Guys,

The Pony Express just made a run by and dropped off................................

My new NOE Hunter 217-30-RF-CE6-62 pellet molds........with a bunch of base pins,

They are the Alum 4 gang type and they are so beautiful, I may not use them...LOL

And I can't use the mold anyhow, as I just remembered that the sprue lube and wrench etc,
was on the first order mold 22 Mag, in which there was an inventory mix up and were back ordered...

At least I can hold and drool over the mold...........while I wait.

Thanks,
Don

[K.O.]

synthetic 2 stroke  sprue lube is used..   and tis a common allen wrench...

[KnifeMaker]

Don, I use Stihl synthetic 2 cycle oil. (used in my Stihl weed eaters) 


Looks the same, smells the same, works the same. Low cost, last forever!    Al, (Swede) said OK!!!


Mike

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Kirby

Thanks for the info, that's oil right?

I am really more miffed now, can't buy some more supplies, site is down, and now this problem.

I just opened the mold half's by hand, checked everything inside the mold half's, lookin good,

Swung open the sprue plate and (&%^$#%^&, the closest cavity to the hinge screw,
has a burr on the bottom of the sprue hole, and is scratching/cutting the alum top.......

I can lightly lift the sprue plate and I don't feel the burr making contact with the mold,
when I close the sprue plate, I can feel the burr digging in.

I am afraid that this burr will screw uo the cavity top's hole etc,
So I wrapped the mold up with the rubber band and will have to send it back,
and I haven't even attached the handles to use it etc.

I know how to cure that problem on my old molds, but don't know what the return status would be,
if I honed/polished the burr with a very very fine flat stone.

Sorry for the rant, but I am spittin nails and mad............and frustrated, just my bad luck..... etc. 

Tia,
Don

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Thanks Knife

It don't make a difference now, with the above problem, I found,

I can see how 2019 is going to go.........LOL

Tia,
Don

[rsterne]

Instead of sending it back, you can take a piece of 400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, put it on a flat steel plate and tape it down.... Remove the sprue plate from the mould and set it down on the sandpaper with the side facing the mould on the paper.... rub it gently in a circular motion and it should quickly show you the burr.... Keep going until the bottom of the sprue plate is nice and smooth.... It will remove the blackened surface, of course.... Just an alternative....

Bob

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Thanks Bob

I would do that trick, even have 1000/1200 grit paper, to do it that way but,
I don't know, what that would do to the warranty etc.

With the NOE's site down, I am kinda dead in the water,
and got some extra rat hole funds, and can't spend it....... before the dead line. LOL

Tia,
Don

[Back_Roads]

 I just got done hacking my way through NOE checkout, apparently their security on the website expired. On my google page that popped up to warn me , I went to bottom of page and checked advanced box, then scroll down further and there is a link to NOE<not secure>. I had to do that mulitple times to get to paypal secure payment.
 RE sprue lube, yea I opened that little handy bottle and instantly knew , I had just used this stuff to mix some chainsaw fuel 

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Back roads

Thanks for that info, I got the same warning from google page,
I was afraid to go any farther when using my CC etc.

Called twice, once about an order and then their site being down,
no help etc.

I'll retry that, to see if I can get to the PP secured site,
crossing all my fingers......LOL

Tia,
Don

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Well Guys

After a good nites sleep, aided with a little sleeping help from Old#7,   
I got out the new mold and did a through check of the mold etc,
with my 20X glasses.

Sprue plate problems,
2 different sprue holes have the burr on the bottom side,
looks like they were punched and then milled,
the worst one, looks like a figure 8, with the bottom half of the part part missing,
second hole about 1/2 of the same problem, as the first hole.

Mold blocks problems,
All of the pin cavities has milling flash on one sides, of both mold halves, can be felt with a finger,
tried using the thumb nail to remove, got about 80%, but not all.

Overall, this appears like an excellent mold, with some minor problems, I could fix,
but I don't want to mess up the warranty etc.

I am just dying to season and use...........

Tia,
Don

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Back Roads

I tried numerous times on 2 different puter's, with NO luck.

Tia,
Don

[KnifeMaker]

Don, Sorry abut getting in here so late. I resurface "ALL" spru plates, and told Swede this. He said it was always a good idea, as I knew what I was doing.so. I also polish the leading edge of the new spru plate to make sure it closes clean and smooth. No little burs.


I hone the bottom of the sprue plate first on a flat NOrton India stone and switch to a 1800 grit diamond hone. Glas plate with fine wet-dry paper will do almost as good.


Finally, while still on the 1800 grit stone, I use a very fine diamond burr to sharpen the thru hole in the sprue's, then remove any final burr with the diamond hone. they cut like butter after this treatment. I never use a mallet to open the sprue plate, only a work glove with a cotton jersey glove inside for heat protection. This works even in my 5 cavity molds and gives fantastic flat, no sprue showing bases.


I would go ahead and give the plate the treatment, and also call Swede, (Al) and tell him about the miss drilled thru holes and no doubt he will send you a new plate. Swede is fantastic to deal with. Very nice Guy!


In fact, it probably wouldn't hurt to tell him I suggested the treatment. He knows me as the KnifeMaker from Central Texas. 


Mike 



I

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Thanks Mike

Working on the sprue plate burrs now. 

Tia,
Don