CZ 200 cylinder rebuild

[huklbery]

Asking for a friend  , anyone know of a teardown/seal replacement vid for the cylinder?  He has the AA  front slip on style fill adapter.  I don't see a pyramid kit redily available for either the CZ rear or AA front air tube reservoirs. 

[Motorhead]

Done a few of them and generally most have been a MAJOR PITA to get them unscrewed. The factory and what ever miens used to hold onto the tube and end caps has them on REALLY really tight !!

Good luck.

[huklbery]

Tight fit... thats what he said he was frightned he was breaking something in his attempt.  I see someone had made an alum ring with dowel pin holes to engage the brass end pieces, perhaps thats the way to go. 

[Buldawg76]

There is a special tool to loosen the valve and fill fittings and also one to hold the tube. You can buy them here "xtxair.com". They may be available from other British shops.

Its basically a big nut that has a tight fit to the valve and fill fitting with holes that pins are inserted thru the nut into the holes in the valve and fill fitting so it locks the nut to the valve or fitting. Then there is a clamp that is secured to the tube to place in a vise to prevent it from turning. You need a large crescent wrench or channel lock to fit the nut and smack the end of the wrench with a hammer to break it loose. They are torqued to 100 ft/lbs at the factory, should never need to be anywhere close to that tight so just hand tight when reassembling the tube.

There are also Videos on the XTX site.

Mike 

[Vee3]

You need a large crescent wrench or channel lock to fit the nut and smack the end of the wrench with a hammer to break it loose. They are torqued to 100 ft/lbs at the factory, should never need to be anywhere close to that tight so just hand tight when reassembling the tube.

Channel locks need not apply for this particular job.

[Buldawg76]

You need a large crescent wrench or channel lock to fit the nut and smack the end of the wrench with a hammer to break it loose. They are torqued to 100 ft/lbs at the factory, should never need to be anywhere close to that tight so just hand tight when reassembling the tube.

Channel locks need not apply for this particular job.

I am not so sure about that, I have a BIG pair that I have used for years as a mechanic to loosen some tight stuff. It all depends on the hand strength, proper use to allow the jaws to tighten the more the pressure is applied. I agree your everyday garden variety need not apply, mine are top dollar bought years age when quality was much better than todays tools.

I have 45 years of auto/cycle and mechanic tools in my garage totaling well over 100,000 dollars if bought today.

Mike

[Vee3]

You need a large crescent wrench or channel lock to fit the nut and smack the end of the wrench with a hammer to break it loose. They are torqued to 100 ft/lbs at the factory, should never need to be anywhere close to that tight so just hand tight when reassembling the tube.

Channel locks need not apply for this particular job.

I am not so sure about that, I have a BIG pair that I have used for years as a mechanic to loosen some tight stuff. It all depends on the hand strength, proper use to allow the jaws to tighten the more the pressure is applied. I agree your everyday garden variety need not apply, mine are top dollar bought years age when quality was much better than todays tools.

I have 45 years of auto/cycle and mechanic tools in my garage totaling well over 100,000 dollars if bought today.

Mike

That's good. You no doubt have something more appropriate than channel locks then.

[Taso1000]

I bought the aluminum nut adapter and the steel lever adapter to get the air tube ends off.  I lucked out and got the fitting that goes into the receiver off and didn't bother with the gauge and since I had to use a front fill adapter because I regulated the tube.

I inherited a 24 inch steel Crescent style wrench to use on the nut and a length of pipe for leverage on the lever style adapter.  And even then it was not easy. 

Make sure the cylinder isn't pressurized or you'll never get it apart.

Thanks,

Taso

[Buldawg76]

I have the same size pair of channel lock made by "Knipex" year ago off the snap on truck as well as several size smaller ones. These are hinged so the more pressure or torque is applied to the long grip the tighter they grip the object needing loosened. I have collapsed pipes made of average material due to clamp force against the tube.

Mike

[Brazos]

I was fortunate to have a friend with CZ200's and had made tools to take the end caps off.  All I can say is the were a $&?! to get off.  They are super tight.  You need a tube block to put the tube in to put in the vice.  A giant wrench and a hammer.  Once off everything is easy.  Just replace the orings and hand tighten back.  I have CZ200 rifles with the air gauge at the end of the tube.  In my case the leak was at the gauge and could not find any info on the web on what size oring I needed.  The oring at the gauge wasn't even an oring.  It was a plastic washer.  I took it to an Ace Hardware and found a similiar sized oring as the plastic washer and it has worked fine.

[pelletcaster]

I used some cheap but proper fitting screwdriver bits with a crescent wrench and channel lock.
Yes it was a tight fit but with some care easy to manage.
Here a pic.

[Buldawg76]

I used some cheap but proper fitting screwdriver bits with a crescent wrench and channel lock.
Yes it was a tight fit but with some care easy to manage.
Here a pic.

Where there's a will there's a way. 

Mike

[Ribbonstone]

Been in there a couple df times.  AA really cranked down on those end caps...for no good reason I could see (o-rings another seal mopderately tight or they don't seal no matter how hard you crank down on the metal parts).

So...once you do get it apart,,,qhwn reassembling, don't go all bust-q-gut-crasy on lighting the end caps down....let the o-rings do what they are best at.