PP700sa regulator fix

[Rallyshark]

You don’t have enough hammer spring to crack the valve at 200 bar/3,000psi. Your hammer spring is designed to crack the valve from 1,000 to 2,000psi or 80 to 130 bar. Remember this gun was designed to be regulated.

Okay, but i see some guys getting +20fpe, how do they do that? Bigger hammerspring?

The guns getting 20+fpe are not stock.  If they are stock, then something is wrong with the chrony telling them they're getting 20+fpe most likely.  Granted, mine is .177, but I was only able to get mine up to a little over 25fpe unregulated.  That was with me throwing every trick at it I could, and a ton of HS with a 15 grain pellet.  If my gun were .22, it would probably be capable of 30fpe, but...

Just for kicks and giggles, (you won't like this Frank,lol), go ahead and really crank that HS down.  I'm not talking as far as you can get it with a flat head.  I'm talking well past that using a socket.  Tighten it down, until the thread of the screw is sticking up 2-3mm past the nut.  Do that and let us know what the power is then at 200 bar. 

[Harold999]

You don’t have enough hammer spring to crack the valve at 200 bar/3,000psi. Your hammer spring is designed to crack the valve from 1,000 to 2,000psi or 80 to 130 bar. Remember this gun was designed to be regulated.

Okay, but i see some guys getting +20fpe, how do they do that? Bigger hammerspring?

The guns getting 20+fpe are not stock.  If they are stock, then something is wrong with the chrony telling them they're getting 20+fpe most likely.  Granted, mine is .177, but I was only able to get mine up to a little over 25fpe unregulated.  That was with me throwing every trick at it I could, and a ton of HS with a 15 grain pellet.  If my gun were .22, it would probably be capable of 30fpe, but...

Just for kicks and giggles, (you won't like this Frank,lol), go ahead and really crank that HS down.  I'm not talking as far as you can get it with a flat head.  I'm talking well past that using a socket.  Tighten it down, until the thread of the screw is sticking up 2-3mm past the nut.  Do that and let us know what the power is then at 200 bar.

Missed this reply untill now, sorry. In the meantime i got the stock regulator working again and good too imo, close to 130 bar. I think i will let it this way.

[Pelletjunkie]

I would. You should be able to find a nice balance of power and shot count.

[laser2]

Know this is older but have been working on pp700sa for a while. I am getting 38 shots from 200 bar down to 100 bar lowest shot 704fps, high 728, it averages 711fps with a 14.3 22 cal round. Turning hammer back to 625 I get 50 shots
 here is how I tune and seal.
First replace all stock orings.
I then utilize huma regulator and set for 140kph,
I bridge the 2 regulators by remove valve screw from factory reg not needed. (the one that goes thru the derlon seal)
Replace derrlon seal with one that is .356 dia. x .081 thick, drill the center hole with a #44 drill bit. The disk will snap in place most leaks are from the diameter of the derlon.
Turn all belville washers in same direction, place back in factory reg with center facing down, tighten adjustor tite to the max.
reinstall factory reg in place.
Install Huma regulator as directed.
Fill tank to 200bar, turn hammer spring until 700fps is achieved, back off to desired fps. I have put red dot on hammer spring area to indicate 700 for high then use blue and black dots at intervals it allows to set hammer spring with reliability.
Have 3 of these in my collection one over a year old and still functioning at 700fps and no leaks.
Try a H&N 25 grain rabbit hunter round on high, great energy delivery and as usal the accuracy is spot on spot at 25yds.

Cheers

[nervoustrigger]

I’m resurrecting this old thread to report the superglue fix held up for a little over 2 years.  I noticed recently that the gun had begun creeping again so I opened it up and promptly confirmed the adhesive had separated and the little white disc was free to move.  I’m pleased it lasted as long as it did because I wasn’t confident I had achieved sufficient torque to keep a squeeze on it.
 
I went ahead and cleaned the residue off the regulator with 0000 steel wool and off the plastic disc with 3000 grit paper.  Then I mixed a tiny portion of slow-cure epoxy and used it to set the disc, again taking care to not let the squeezeout block the orifice in the middle.  The amount was probably no more than a small grain of rice.

I wanted to be sure to apply a healthy amount of torque this time.  My spanner spanner wrench isn’t very strong so I made a little jig…just a wood block with a couple of cutoff nails protruding.  That seemed to work well to torque the two halves of the regulator back together.
 
It’s back up and running nicely now.   Previously I was having to limit my fill pressure to about 150bar…anything higher would cause the velocity to begin tailing off.  I chalked that up to the input regulation characteristics of this particular regulator.  Because I was using such a low setpoint somewhere around 50-60 bar, it still had a generous operating range so that was fine.
 
But somehow this time around I’m getting a stable velocity even at higher fill pressure so that’s a plus.  Is it because I got a better seal (more torque) or did I find a more balanced hammer spring adjustment or was it something else?  I wish I could say.

[WesBob]

Thanks for sharing! I'll have to try out this mod again. A bit tricky sounds like but we'll worth it if you can remove the creep!