Any US importers carrying this gun?

[Madd Hatter]

It could just be a Asian sub gate under the pcp major gate like big bores. ...

[BackStop]

It could just be a Asian sub gate under the pcp major gate like big bores. ...

Gee, that makes it sound even more complicated...  LOL!

But I'll take it!  (grin)

[Madd Hatter]

Why, there's one under the springer gate. There's also one for the german, spanish, chec, etc.

[BackStop]

Why, there's one under the springer gate. There's also one for the german, spanish, chec, etc.

I have been here long enough to be "able" to find stuff, and I STILL have a hard time with BOTH!

New users have a very hard time figuring out where to look for/post things.   The search function on GTA... Hoovers/Electroluxes.

I am not the first one to mention the search function lacks all that and the bag of chips.

[Madd Hatter]

I got news for ya, every forum I'm on their search function suxs.

[BackStop]

I got news for ya, every forum I'm on their search function suxs.

Same forum software and the search function works better because the site is indexed.  www.pizzamaking.com

Other than indexing the site, I don't know what the other differences are.   Updates perhaps?   I don't know.

[tracker1955]

You have better luck just running a google search at times.

[BackStop]

You have better luck just running a google search at times.

Or duckduckgo, but yes, that is the best way to search.

[FuzzyGrub]

I'm dis-assembling one of my parts gun.  What's the trick to get the hammer to drop out?  Something outside of the sear seems to be keeping it from dropping out the back.   I wanted to get the weight and some dim, but also looks like you have to have hammer out to push the valve out? 

[darkcharisma]

John, if some idiot dry fire the gun alot, the hammer will hit the hammer stop in the receiver and mushroom it out and keeps the hammer in.  you will have to hit the hammer out from the front end. before that, try getting a pick and pull it, if ya cant then you have to remove the valve first.

get a combination hook and push valve forward via the hole underneath.  make sure the hook is wrapped with electrical tape to prevent gouging the valve end. thats how i get the valve out under 2 minutes.

[Madd Hatter]

I had the same problem with mine and I don't dry fire it much at all. Even with polishing the end where it hits the valve stem it still gave me a problem getting it out. I ended up polishing out the end closes to where the cocking lever mounts to until it would just fall out when tilled muzzle up. Even after that now it's doing it again.

[darkcharisma]

i had to cut a 45 degree chamfer on the edge so its free from that problem. wish i could install a delrin bumper but maybe later on.

[FuzzyGrub]

Thx for the replys.  It turned out that the hammer was hitting on the cocking lever end cap.  After removing that, it just slid out.  I then just pushed the valve out with a dowel rod.   Boy that valve is tiny.  The pictures I've seen make it look much bigger.  Duy, I didn't really understand your "trench" comments, until now.  It forms the exhaust.   I was initially concerned the poppet didn't have a taper at the end where the hammer contacts it.  ie it might mushroom out.  Found out there was a o-ring sealing it and the hole is larger than the poppet shaft OD.  That shouldn't be an issue.

I didn't find any external leaking with the detector spray, but when I removed the plenum there was no air pressure, so betting it is the poppet.  The poppet sealing material has a deep indent where it its the raised edge.  It also looks like the can is just starting to contact valve. 

Fighting with that little Philips screw in the cocking arm assembly, now.     

[FuzzyGrub]

Thx again for Stephen's video.  Made it easy to deal with the regulator and block dis-assembly/assembly.  I did use Krytox grease on the poly O-rings in the reg that the piston slides on.  Also used it on the valve poppet o-ring.  Moving the poppet in the valve was noticeably easier.   I used 1000cps silicone oil on the Bellville washers and shaft.   

I will say, I'm not crazy about the valve spring being a stop for the regulator piston.  On other regs, that has always been a hard stop with a C-clip.  It is a fairly heavy spring (0.055 wire), but it doesn't have a guide on the reg side.   Mine was slightly bent, as I have seen of others. 

[Madd Hatter]

Thx for the replys.  It turned out that the hammer was hitting on the cocking lever end cap.  After removing that, it just slid out.  I then just pushed the valve out with a dowel rod.   Boy that valve is tiny.  The pictures I've seen make it look much bigger.  Duy, I didn't really understand your "trench" comments, until now.  It forms the exhaust.   I was initially concerned the poppet didn't have a taper at the end where the hammer contacts it.  ie it might mushroom out.  Found out there was a o-ring sealing it and the hole is larger than the poppet shaft OD.  That shouldn't be an issue.

I didn't find any external leaking with the detector spray, but when I removed the plenum there was no air pressure, so betting it is the poppet.  The poppet sealing material has a deep indent where it its the raised edge.  It also looks like the can is just starting to contact valve. 

Fighting with that little Philips screw in the cocking arm assembly, now.     

I took my dremel with a cut off wheel and made a slot in the top to use a screw driver to hold it. It is loctited

[FuzzyGrub]

Fighting with that little Philips screw in the cocking arm assembly, now.     

I took my dremel with a cut off wheel and made a slot in the top to use a screw driver to hold it. It is loctited

I gave up on it, yesterday, but thx for the info.  The next time I will try to loosen the locktite with some heat, and if necessary cut the slot you suggest.  Thx.

[SILENT SQUIRREL]

The only advantage with the StormRider might be that it's a repeater.
Mods/customer service and parts availability advantages goes to the Disco and/or Maximus.
The StormRider is a 3k gun.... more hand pumping.

Hey Duy
Here's an update on the purchase decision
I bought a Maximus 22 for use with my hand pump.
Wouldn't you know though
the way the word works,
2 days later a new in box Yong Heng popped up on Craigslist
The seller decided he just had to have all the bells and whistles of the set the psi & forget it version
I snapped it up for a song, called Ty at ATI; and bought a Liberty 22

So it looks like I'll be listening in a lot to what you'ze guyz are talking about re Freedoms & Libertys.

Thanks for the advice & support.

Ed

[SoCalZac]

So after much playing with the trigger I finally have something that is awesome!! The front screw doesn’t do anything. The 2 screws in the back I replaced with longer pointed set screws and I am finally able to get the trigger pull down to 3/4-1LB single stage and absolutely no creep.On the two screws behind the trigger I screwed the rear one in almost all the way and the front screw about half way. It is so much nicer than stock!





I ordered a .22 Liberty parts gun in synthetic and a Freedom parts gun today. Hopefully it’s just some minor issues but even if not it shouldn’t be any problem fixing them. Can’t wait to get them!!

[Madd Hatter]

Well, I reinstalled Duy's DC valve and had a heck of a time getting it to seal enough so my compressor could get it above 800 psi. Finally using the peek poppet and some lapping compound got it to seal and now it's shooting vel. all over the place. Need to do some tuning with the hammer spring adj. and some hammer weights today as it just got to late last night. Hopefully I'll be getting my scba tank back tomorrow from getting hydro'd and will be able to pressurize the Liberty fast enough to  get above that 2000 psi thresh hold to get it to seal. After shooting it a bunch I doubt I'll have problems getting it to seal at a lot lower pressure just need to let the poppet settle in.

[FuzzyGrub]

One thing I noticed on both parts gun, in the last couple of days, with the gun depressurized, and barrel band removed, it is easy to flex the air tube, in relation to the barrel.  It is flexing at the regulator, between the receiver and reg block.  I fully assembled with barrel band before pressurizing.  I suspect, but didn't check, if it was much more solid.   I'm wondering if this is what was causing the barrel drooping/elevated issues.  Thinking of making a shim such that on the last rotation of the block, it becomes tight with the receiver.  My original Liberty had/has the barrel droop, so that would be a good test when I fix that poppet. 

Anyone have other insight in this?