Any US importers carrying this gun?

[FuzzyGrub]

Stephen,

Thx for the ideas and always love it when someone is using the same lathe as I have.     

BTW, agree that having an external adjustable regulator should have a external hammer preload adjuster.  I have been looking into options, but also trying to incorporate a SSG. 

For your adjuster, did you go to two smaller pins to hold the alum block in the action or just using the stock to hold it in place?   

FWIW: When there is no preload, like the stock setting or further back, or low preload from the hammer spring, the adjuster will tend to move.  You might want to consider adding a grub screw w/nylon tip to the alum block to be able apply tension to the threads. 

[USAFANG6799]

When looking for more power do you adjust the regulator first or the hammer spring first?

[AVS Stephen]

Stephen,

Thx for the ideas and always love it when someone is using the same lathe as I have.     

BTW, agree that having an external adjustable regulator should have a external hammer preload adjuster.  I have been looking into options, but also trying to incorporate a SSG. 

For your adjuster, did you go to two smaller pins to hold the alum block in the action or just using the stock to hold it in place?   

FWIW: When there is no preload, like the stock setting or further back, or low preload from the hammer spring, the adjuster will tend to move.  You might want to consider adding a grub screw w/nylon tip to the alum block to be able apply tension to the threads.

John, the stock is holding the aluminum block in place. I was going to use two grub screws but i don't want to alter the original pin holes. Yes, I put Felton tape around the the screw to create friction. Maybe a nylon screw will be better thanks

[AVS Stephen]

When looking for more power do you adjust the regulator first or the hammer spring first?

IMHO I would set the regulator and hammer together to shoot the heaviest pellet at your desired speed. Then you can always turn down the hammer spring adjuster for lighter pellets.

[RichH]

Stephen,

Thx for the ideas and always love it when someone is using the same lathe as I have.     

BTW, agree that having an external adjustable regulator should have a external hammer preload adjuster.  I have been looking into options, but also trying to incorporate a SSG. 

For your adjuster, did you go to two smaller pins to hold the alum block in the action or just using the stock to hold it in place?   

FWIW: When there is no preload, like the stock setting or further back, or low preload from the hammer spring, the adjuster will tend to move.  You might want to consider adding a grub screw w/nylon tip to the alum block to be able apply tension to the threads.

John, the stock is holding the aluminum block in place. I was going to use two grub screws but i don't want to alter the original pin holes. Yes, I put Felton tape around the the screw to create friction. Maybe a nylon screw will be better thanks

Looking at the diagram doesn't the rear stock screw (the one going thru the rear of trigger guard) line up with that piece. You could just get a slightly longer bolt and tap your block for the bolt. (M5?)

[FuzzyGrub]

Looking at the diagram doesn't the rear stock screw (the one going thru the rear of trigger guard) line up with that piece. You could just get a slightly longer bolt and tap your block for the bolt. (M5?)

Good catch.  I hadn't noticed that screw came up that far.  A slightly longer screw and a pocket in the block should work. 

[superchikn]

Here is a hammer spring adjuster I made for ATI nova Liberty. This is easy and no permanent changes to the gun.

Stephen,
I like your solution.  I have been planning to drill and tap my spring guide block, slot the guide for a cross bar and then drill my stock for access.  I was holding off to see if replacements would become available so I did not risk ruining the factory piece.
I just order a 2 1/4" x 5/16 - 28 hex drive set screw to try my own version of your solution.  I will drill a hole in the stock to allow an Allen wrench access.  Sweet!!!

[kzz1kaw]

Here is a hammer spring adjuster I made for ATI nova Liberty. This is easy and no permanent changes to the gun.

Stephen,
I like your solution.  I have been planning to drill and tap my spring guide block, slot the guide for a cross bar and then drill my stock for access.  I was holding off to see if replacements would become available so I did not risk ruining the factory piece.
I just order a 2 1/4" x 5/16 - 28 hex drive set screw to try my own version of your solution.  I will drill a hole in the stock to allow an Allen wrench access.  Sweet!!!

I like that idea 💡👍🏾

[SoCalZac]

I finally cleaned the barrel a couple days ago and was able to shoot today. Cleaning the barrel definitely improved accuracy. I set up targets at 30 yards and 42 yards. I ended up getting 50 shots on high from 3600-2000. There was no wind to speak of and I was getting about 1/2” groups with a variety of different pellets. Everytime I shoot this gun I am impressed with it the shot count.

I did have a magazine screw up on me today but I was able to take the mag apart and fix it.

[Letum]

Good morning all

For those that have tinkered with the hammer spring:
- Have you reached a limit/maximum or perceived safety limit when turning up the hammer spring tension?

I need to turn down my regulator a bit as it still has a minor air leak.

The shims I am using are 0.8mm (or 0.031 inch) thick, and I am currently running 3 with no factory shims installed. I am currently playing with the idea of turning the reg about 1/8 turn and upping the number of shims to 5. Therefore putting me at 4mm/0.155 inch added hammer tension. However this is much more than factory specced so just want to test the water of knowledge first.

PS. @Banker, I love the adjustable hammer tension screw!!! I might end up going that route at some point, however the idea of just the stock keeping it in place does scare me a bit. So if I do go that route I'll do a double pin through the top and bottom of the block. 

[Letum]

I did have a magazine screw up on me today but I was able to take the mag apart and fix it.

Both of mine have given issues in that the spring would slip out the hole in the back. I used Superglue Gel in the hole to glue to spring into place, used a Dremel tool to smooth it out once dried and no issues from there.

[Wayne52]

Stephen you're an enabler but I don't really mean it offensively, you have a way of really putting a SHINE on that Liberty no doubt.  I'm so tempted to buy a new airgun again but I'm still really happy with what I got right now. It's been a while since I bought any hunting rifles and they're the last three that I've bought which are the DAR (Dynamic Air Rifle) and they were also a bargain IMO but did need a considerable amount of tinkering to get them how I wanted them.  I haven't seen much on them recently but the GenII is supposed to be coming out this year which will be much better out of the box then mine were hopefully.

[FuzzyGrub]

The shims I am using are 0.8mm (or 0.031 inch) thick, and I am currently running 3 with no factory shims installed. I am currently playing with the idea of turning the reg about 1/8 turn and upping the number of shims to 5. Therefore putting me at 4mm/0.155 inch added hammer tension. However this is much more than factory specced so just want to test the water of knowledge first.

In Stephan's video, he took it right up to coil bind, where the sear won't latch.  That is just past the max.  I don't think 5 washers (0.155") is going to put the spring in coil bind, but if it does, just take one out.  At least on my 22, the oem three + 1 would just take the gap out.  So, about 0.087" is just taking out the gap.  So only about 0.068" preload on the spring. 

Adjusting hammer preload in a regulated gun, really is not the right way for power increases/decreases, unless you are only looking at minor fps tweaks.  It is mainly needed to follow the reg pressure adjustment.  If you raise the pressure, it takes more energy to break the poppet free from the seat.  Hence needing preload on the spring.  Drop the reg pressure, and need to lower hammer energy, or will start over-dwelling and wasting air. 

Now, the other thing in play here, is the stock setup is like a SSG.  There is no preload and the gap protects against hammer bounce.  Adding preload adds dwell to the poppet, most of which is on the return (closing).  At some point you start wasting air if the pellet is so far down the barrel before it closes.  You may also see hammer bounce, that wastes air.   As in anything, no free lunch.

UPDATE:
I found some nylon washers in my parts boxes.  I had different widths, but just used the thinnest ones which are 0.032" thick.  5 nylon plus the 3 oem, it went into coil bind.  4 nylon (0.130") + 3 oem (0.060") was able to cock and latch the sear. 

[stretch]

I pumped my Liberty to (what I thought was) 4,100 psi on Monday and then when I looked at it Tuesday morning it looked like the pressure had dropped to 3,800 psi.  I may not have looked at the gauge very carefully on Monday, so I took a photo Tuesday morning and then again this morning (24 hours later).  If you look carefully, it does look like the needle has dropped maybe 80 psi.  The rifle has sat on my bench in the house, so there haven't been any major temperature changes.  Is this a big enough leak to be concerned about?  What do the PCP experts think?

[Abefroman]

Hey Guys - I've done a few mods to my liberty, but my shot groups are all over the place and I cant figure out why.  I've turned the regulator 1/2 turn ccw and shimmed the hammer spring with two washers, ported the barrel and power knob to 3/16" and I'm getting around 900+ish with H&N Baracuda Match 21.14 and 920+ish with JSB 18.1 grain.   I've adjusted the regulator and the hammer spring shims many many times, but at 50 yards, my groups are still all over the place.   My .22 gauntlet is extremely accurate at 50 yards. 

So, I'm kinda perplexed here.  I think my next task is to take the barrel off and clean the H*LL out of it.  And then maybe crown the barrel.   I'm also gonna swap out the scope in case that is the problem, but I doubt it is.  Other than that, I dont know what to do.  Last night I shot a string of the baracuda match 21.14 grains and i actually got 3 shots in a row pretty much in the same spot, but then my follow up shots were 8 inches away !!!  what's going on here ?  anyone?

Cheers

[USAFANG6799]

Adjusting hammer preload in a regulated gun, really is not the right way for power increases/decreases, unless you are only looking at minor fps tweaks.  It is mainly needed to follow the reg pressure adjustment.  If you raise the pressure, it takes more energy to break the poppet free from the seat.  Hence needing preload on the spring.  Drop the reg pressure, and need to lower hammer energy, or will start over-dwelling and wasting air. 

Does this not contradict what Steven has done in his video? His results are pretty impressive.

[Back_Roads]

Hey Guys - I've done a few mods to my liberty, but my shot groups are all over the place and I cant figure out why.  I've turned the regulator 1/2 turn ccw and shimmed the hammer spring with two washers, ported the barrel and power knob to 3/16" and I'm getting around 900+ish with H&N Baracuda Match 21.14 and 920+ish with JSB 18.1 grain.   I've adjusted the regulator and the hammer spring shims many many times, but at 50 yards, my groups are still all over the place.   My .22 gauntlet is extremely accurate at 50 yards. 

So, I'm kinda perplexed here.  I think my next task is to take the barrel off and clean the H*LL out of it.  And then maybe crown the barrel.   I'm also gonna swap out the scope in case that is the problem, but I doubt it is.  Other than that, I dont know what to do.  Last night I shot a string of the baracuda match 21.14 grains and i actually got 3 shots in a row pretty much in the same spot, but then my follow up shots were 8 inches away !!!  what's going on here ?  anyone?

Cheers

 Are the pellets keeping a low ES, or are they going up and down in 2 digit increments ?

 Possibly the crown, or something loose in the setup causing POI issues.

[Letum]

The shims I am using are 0.8mm (or 0.031 inch) thick, and I am currently running 3 with no factory shims installed. I am currently playing with the idea of turning the reg about 1/8 turn and upping the number of shims to 5. Therefore putting me at 4mm/0.155 inch added hammer tension. However this is much more than factory specced so just want to test the water of knowledge first.

In Stephan's video, he took it right up to coil bind, where the sear won't latch.  That is just past the max.  I don't think 5 washers (0.155") is going to put the spring in coil bind, but if it does, just take one out.  At least on my 22, the oem three + 1 would just take the gap out.  So, about 0.087" is just taking out the gap.  So only about 0.068" preload on the spring. 

Adjusting hammer preload in a regulated gun, really is not the right way for power increases/decreases, unless you are only looking at minor fps tweaks.  It is mainly needed to follow the reg pressure adjustment.  If you raise the pressure, it takes more energy to break the poppet free from the seat.  Hence needing preload on the spring.  Drop the reg pressure, and need to lower hammer energy, or will start over-dwelling and wasting air. 

Now, the other thing in play here, is the stock setup is like a SSG.  There is no preload and the gap protects against hammer bounce.  Adding preload adds dwell to the poppet, most of which is on the return (closing).  At some point you start wasting air if the pellet is so far down the barrel before it closes.  You may also see hammer bounce, that wastes air.   As in anything, no free lunch.

Ahhh OK thank you for the explanation. So in short a proper balance of the 2 should be aimed for? For me it's not about gaining more fps at this stage. 850fps is about my gun's happy place. However I need to turn the reg in a bit, it's just just over the limit causing some air to leak. However I need to balance the lowering of the reg somehow to keep the fps roundabout where it is at the moment. I'll up the spring by 2 and see what happens. Will there be an audible signal I need to listen for when testing the 5 shims? 

[Orion]

I pumped my Liberty to (what I thought was) 4,100 psi on Monday and then when I looked at it Tuesday morning it looked like the pressure had dropped to 3,800 psi.  I may not have looked at the gauge very carefully on Monday, so I took a photo Tuesday morning and then again this morning (24 hours later).  If you look carefully, it does look like the needle has dropped maybe 80 psi.  The rifle has sat on my bench in the house, so there haven't been any major temperature changes.  Is this a big enough leak to be concerned about?  What do the PCP experts think?

Hey stretch,

Did you try to tighten a bit the bleeding screw at the bottom of the stock?

[FuzzyGrub]

Hey Guys - I've done a few mods to my liberty, but my shot groups are all over the place and I cant figure out why.  I've turned the regulator 1/2 turn ccw and shimmed the hammer spring with two washers, ported the barrel and power knob to 3/16" and I'm getting around 900+ish with H&N Baracuda Match 21.14 and 920+ish with JSB 18.1 grain.   I've adjusted the regulator and the hammer spring shims many many times, but at 50 yards, my groups are still all over the place.   My .22 gauntlet is extremely accurate at 50 yards. 

So, I'm kinda perplexed here.  I think my next task is to take the barrel off and clean the H*LL out of it.  And then maybe crown the barrel.   I'm also gonna swap out the scope in case that is the problem, but I doubt it is.  Other than that, I dont know what to do.  Last night I shot a string of the baracuda match 21.14 grains and i actually got 3 shots in a row pretty much in the same spot, but then my follow up shots were 8 inches away !!!  what's going on here ?  anyone?

Cheers

You are running at a power level and using pellets that others have reported decent accuracy, so would not try to adjust reg/spring to fix this.  Starting with a good cleaning of the barrel, checking the crown and leade for burrs, and for any damage in the rifling.  For accuracy testing, use the ss tray and make sure pellet centered in channel and close bolt slowly, to feed evenly into leade.

Also check the shroud end cap for possible clipping.  Even try it without the endcap or any baffles, if you installed them.  It is going to be loud, but if the flyers go away, that is a good clue.