Any US importers carrying this gun?

[Fwawa20]

Anyone been able to get the trigger under 3 lbs?  I've just about removed the trigger weight screw and it won't go below 3.12 lbs.  I like a light trigger for target shooting.  My BullBoss trigger is at 1.5 lbs and I consider that on the heavy side.  My Marauders have a trigger pull weight of only .13 lbs!

Wow!! You must shoot off the bench then huh? I like a light trigger but I go through a lot of brush and I’d be afraid of a drop or fall that it’d fire. I dunno I may try a lighter trigger in the field . I usually stay about 2lbs down to 1 1//2lbs is what I’m comfortable with.

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

Anyone been able to get the trigger under 3 lbs?  I've just about removed the trigger weight screw and it won't go below 3.12 lbs.  I like a light trigger for target shooting.  My BullBoss trigger is at 1.5 lbs and I consider that on the heavy side.  My Marauders have a trigger pull weight of only .13 lbs!

Wow!! You must shoot off the bench then huh? I like a light trigger but I go through a lot of brush and I’d be afraid of a drop or fall that it’d fire. I dunno I may try a lighter trigger in the field . I usually stay about 2lbs down to 1 1//2lbs is what I’m comfortable with.

Yep, the Mrod is definitely a bench gun.  I'd be happy if I could get the Liberty to 1½ to 2 lbs.  Have you been able to adjust yours below 3 lbs?

[Fwawa20]

Mike- I’m glad I wasn’t going crazy. I thought that was the case at first. I knew it sounded louder after I adjusted the brass disc. Going to be interesting going forward.

Paul- My trigger is around 2-2 1/2lbs right now. I backed off one of the other trigger screws don’t remember if it was c or a then backed out the trigger weight screw about 2 turns and it lightened up a little bit. It also still breaks super clean and safety functions.

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

Mike- I’m glad I wasn’t going crazy. I thought that was the case at first. I knew it sounded louder after I adjusted the brass disc. Going to be interesting going forward.

Paul- My trigger is around 2-2 1/2lbs right now. I backed off one of the other trigger screws don’t remember if it was c or a then backed out the trigger weight screw about 2 turns and it lightened up a little bit. It also still breaks super clean and safety functions.

Thanks, I'll give it a try when the rain lets up a bit.  I just got the 2 Gauntlet magazines I ordered off Amazon so I'll be testing those also.

[Gbcool1]

So it held air at 100bar overnight and I tried repumping just now. I can hear the air leaking as I’m pumping and I can feel air that seems to be coming from the burst disc or somewhere near that area. I didn’t get anywhere near 5000psi so I don’t think it’s the disc but idk for sure. I guess if it wasn’t  for bad luck I wouldn’t have no luck at all.

Same thing happened to me. Cock the gun and then pump it. I saw where if the gun pressure is low, the hammer spring can keep the valve slightly open. I heard air coming from the same place you did when I first tried to pump it. My gun arrived empty also a few weeks ago.

[TheSaint]

I've got mine at 1lb. You'll wind up with a single stage trigger, and the safety will only partially engage, so be forewarned.

Looking down at the rifle, remove the two bolts that hold on the trigger guard. The rear bolt goes thru into the action, the other into the stock only. Once the guard is off, remove the grub screw that is in front of the trigger blade. Replace this with a hardware store grub screw 10-12mm long. Coat it with some sort of thread locker that will let you adjust it in the future.

Next, loosen the screw that goes thru the trigger blade itself untill it is about 1/8" or so above the top of it's drilled hole.

Lastly, tighten the screw to the rear of the trigger blade all the way in.

Now on to adjustment:

Replace the longer grub screw at the front of the trigger blade. With the rifle de-cocked, run that screw in till you feel it make contact with the sear.

Now cock the rifle and hold the lever to the rear. Run that grub screw in until the sear realease and the cocking lever tries to move forward. Now start backing that grub screw off about a 1/8th to a 1/4 turn at a time, til the rifle cocks. Hold the lever back and gently pull the trigger. Repeat as needed till the sear just barley engages. Then back the grub screw off an 1/8th of a turn.

This will get you a "quick and dirty" 1lb pull trigger. Oh, do the final adjustments with the stock on. It makes a difference.

You should find that your safety will still partially engage after doing this. The safety lever should move to just about the middle of it's operating range.

Once my new rifle gets here (are you listening USPS?) I'll see if there's a way to do this in a more elegant fashion, but for now, this works really well for me.

[pat585]

If i understand this right you can put a gauge on the regulator test tube to get the reading of the reg pressure? Then you could cut a hole in the bottom of the stock to see the gauge. That would be great to have the 2 gauges to read. we would just have to find the thread size & then find the proper gauge.

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

I've got mine at 1lb. You'll wind up with a single stage trigger, and the safety will only partially engage, so be forewarned.

Looking down at the rifle, remove the two bolts that hold on the trigger guard. The rear bolt goes thru into the action, the other into the stock only. Once the guard is off, remove the grub screw that is in front of the trigger blade. Replace this with a hardware store grub screw 10-12mm long. Coat it with some sort of thread locker that will let you adjust it in the future.

Next, loosen the screw that goes thru the trigger blade itself untill it is about 1/8" or so above the top of it's drilled hole.

Lastly, tighten the screw to the rear of the trigger blade all the way in.

Now on to adjustment:

Replace the longer grub screw at the front of the trigger blade. With the rifle de-cocked, run that screw in till you feel it make contact with the sear.

Now cock the rifle and hold the lever to the rear. Run that grub screw in until the sear realease and the cocking lever tries to move forward. Now start backing that grub screw off about a 1/8th to a 1/4 turn at a time, til the rifle cocks. Hold the lever back and gently pull the trigger. Repeat as needed till the sear just barley engages. Then back the grub screw off an 1/8th of a turn.

This will get you a "quick and dirty" 1lb pull trigger. Oh, do the final adjustments with the stock on. It makes a difference.

You should find that your safety will still partially engage after doing this. The safety lever should move to just about the middle of it's operating range.

Once my new rifle gets here (are you listening USPS?) I'll see if there's a way to do this in a more elegant fashion, but for now, this works really well for me.

Thanks Mike, I'll give this a try.  Both screws A and C were all the way in (clockwise) and so tight, I had to put a pair of pliers on the allen wrench to get enough leverage to break them free!  So, the only adjustment on those screws was in the counter clockwise direction!

Oh, and the Gauntlet magazines work perfectly!  They snap into place and fit good and snug just like the magazines that came with it.  With the shot count these things get, it's good to have a few spares.  $9.99 each for the .177 mags on Amazon!

[Gbcool1]

Oh, and the Gauntlet magazines work perfectly!  They snap into place and fit good and snug just like the magazines that came with it.

That’s great news! Thanks for confirming.

[MB]

If i understand this right you can put a gauge on the regulator test tube to get the reading of the reg pressure? Then you could cut a hole in the bottom of the stock to see the gauge. That would be great to have the 2 gauges to read. we would just have to find the thread size & then find the proper gauge.

Hi Pat I believe so, the factory confirmed this with me earlier this week , see image and attachment

[pat585]

Mike- Something to think about down the road! Just put 90 pellets through my .177 & the accuracy is just as good if not better then my .22. It liked all the pellets-AA 8.4gr &10.3.Then i tried the jsb redesigned 13.43 on high power & it was mostly one hole !! I have noticed one thing about both these guns. The block that the air cylinder screws into is loose where it goes into the receiver on both my guns. I'm glad the factory didn't loctite it, but a little vibra-tite wouldn't hurt.

[TheSaint]

I noticed that also. Probably because it's threaded into the block. No way to exactly line up the block with the air tube at the correct position/torque every time. They probably let the O-ring handle that job. But agreed that a little Vibra-tite is probably in order.

[Back_Roads]

Zac- Sorry to hear you have a leaker in a new gun. My first Nova came with 200 bar in it. The .177 i received yesterday arrived empty. Had me wondering! It made a funny squeaking noise as it was filling but has held air overnight. Have you tried to pinpoint the leak? Some soapy water might help. Maybe you will get lucky & just be able to snug something up. I know trying to find a leak is no fun when your pumping.

I actually just checked the bleed screw before I saw This post and it is tight. I’m pretty bummed about it. Everything was looking great last night when I was filling it no leaks and I was surprised at how quite it is. I was looking forward to some target practice today with a new toy but looks like I’ll have to wait a bit.

Also crossing fingers its just snugging up the slotted degass  screw in the forestock.

Edit: Pat mine was squeaking to when I was filling it. I thought maybe it was my pump so I put some silicone oil in the tube and a light coating on the outside of the inner tube but it was still squeaking. I did find that strange as well.

 I received my 2nd Liberty today , in .22 and wood. It had no pressure in it, but as I checked things over I did tighten the slotted pressure release screw and topped it off with no  apparent leaks, it has held for 3 hours., then I had to shoot it. Seems like another keeper, now do I need to buy another scope 
 PS All my Liberty's make that unholy squeal when filling from my tanks, no matter how slow I fill, it is the o ring seal vibrating as air passes by.

[pat585]

James=I like them so much i have 2 also. Funny how when filling my .22 it doesn't make that noise? Although the fill probes are the same i tried the .22 probe in the .177 & the squeaking didn't start till i hit 150 bar? I guess as long as the air goes in and stays there were good.

[superchikn]

FWIW - This baffle fits right into the shroud.
https://www.pyramydair.com/product/crosman-np214-001-trail-baffle?a=7784

I have a few on the shelf so I just wrapped a single layer of electrical tape around it at the end under the lip to engage the internal threads of the shroud.  I also slightly opened up the first ring at the end with threads to slip over the barrel.  I will come up with something better than wrapping with tape but it feels very secure for now.

Quickest and cheapest way I know of to add some more quiet to this already reasonably quiet piece.

[USAFANG6799]

FWIW - This baffle fits right into the shroud.

Ray: Do you use one or two of these?
Is there room to add felt around it to quite it even more?

Thanks,

Matt

[superchikn]

Hi Matt,

Just one, The barrel actually goes into the first inch of the baffle so it fills the last 5 or 6 inches of the shroud.  The fit is almost snug but not quite.  Only one layer of tape is needed at the threads.  I do not think two layers will fit.  Definitely no room to add felt around it. 
i only received my rifle Friday night and popped this into it yesterday.  I am also only able to fill to a little over 100 bar from an argon tank until my pump gets here, so can't do any real testing but absolutely knocks the sound down noticeably. For $6 + shipping ya cant go wrong with these.  i bought four and have two left.

[Gbcool1]

James=I like them so much i have 2 also. Funny how when filling my .22 it doesn't make that noise? Although the fill probes are the same i tried the .22 probe in the .177 & the squeaking didn't start till i hit 150 bar? I guess as long as the air goes in and stays there were good.

My..22 squeaks also, but it doesn’t leak so I’m okay with it.

[pat585]

Ray= Nice catch, thanks. I just ordered one. A lot cheaper then getting another adaptor! Since i put the moderator on my .22 though it now makes my .177 seem loud. I hate when the shipping cost more then the product but i just got a pellet order so i really didn't need anything else. BTW my .177 loves wadcutters. It's always nice to just see little holes on the target!

[USAFANG6799]

Hi Matt,

Just one, The barrel actually goes into the first inch of the baffle so it fills the last 5 or 6 inches of the shroud.  The fit is almost snug but not quite.  Only one layer of tape is needed at the threads.  I do not think two layers will fit.  Definitely no room to add felt around it. 
i only received my rifle Friday night and popped this into it yesterday.  I am also only able to fill to a little over 100 bar from an argon tank until my pump gets here, so can't do any real testing but absolutely knocks the sound down noticeably. For $6 + shipping ya cant go wrong with these.  i bought four and have two left.

Ray,

Going to order two. Can't go wrong with the price.
I'm hoping to get it "Marauder Quiet" as I use this as my SAE standard.
From your description I take it you did not remove the shroud and it fits over the barrel.

The fit is almost snug but not quite.  Only one layer of tape is needed at the threads.  I do not think two layers will fit.  Definitely no room to add felt around it. 

I take it you did not put tape at both ends of the Baffle? Would tape at both ends help to even the fit at both ends of the Baffle?
I'll probably have a better understanding of using the Baffle and tape when it arrives.

Much appreciate your findings and suggestion.

Matt