Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair



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Offline agdodge4x4

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Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« on: September 19, 2018, 01:22:08 PM »
 A while back I bought a Beeman Sportsman 1000 Series air rifle used.  It was functioning pretty well.  However, I now have a problem and I would like to fix it!

1.)  I have done a lot of reading online and am finding almost no information on "Sportsman 1000 Series".   Any insight as to what I have and how to disassembly it for repair is appreciated and needed as I need to replace the piston seal.

2.)  The front sight is damaged.  Can I remove and replace this sight?  It is plastic, but  I cannot see how it is installed on the barrel.

I have been through the library, and while I will clean this gun, I just want to get it up and running.  There is a blip in the library about tuning this gun, but the link does not work for me.  I'm finding diddly for suitable disassembly instructions, much less parts for this gun. 

Anyway, I need some guidance on parts and taking this gun apart safely. 
« Last Edit: September 19, 2018, 01:36:45 PM by agdodge4x4 »
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Offline agdodge4x4

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #1 on: September 20, 2018, 01:38:33 PM »
I haven't located any material indicating how to take this gun apart.  The one link in the library that looks promising seems to be dead.  So I think I'm going to just dive in this weekend.  I can rig up a compressor device after I see how its assembled, if I need to.  I think once the stock is off, it should be pretty self explanatory. 8)
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Offline Brutuz

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #2 on: September 20, 2018, 03:58:29 PM »
Best start here http://charliedatuna.com/DO's-%20DONT's.htm

Please be carefull, full power springer rifles are preloaded a lot...
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Offline agdodge4x4

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2018, 12:07:34 PM »
Thanks for the info!

I have to find the piston seal first.  I have had no response to phone calls or email to Beeman.  No where else do I see reference to this rifle or parts for it.  If I cannot source the parts, then there is no reason to proceed any further.  LOL.
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Offline Roadworthy

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #4 on: September 21, 2018, 12:31:26 PM »
You may have to take a detour.  If you disassemble the gun first you can measure the compression tube diameter or the diameter of the old seal.  Get the diameter of the hole in the center as well.  With that information you can probably find one that fits. 

If you want a new spring, the thickness of the wire used to wind it is very important.  It is a determining factor of the power of the spring.  Get the inner or outer diameter of the spring as well as they'll be needed to ensure it will fit into the compression tube.  The number of coils is important as only so many will fit into the compression tube with the gun cocked.  If the spring is too long the gun won't cock.
In short, you do not need a spring or seal for a Beeman 1000, only parts that FIT.  Of course if you find what gun these parts DO commonly fit you can order for that gun next time.
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Offline airsenal

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #5 on: September 21, 2018, 01:19:35 PM »
I believe you'll need the Beeman GS 1000/950 Piston Seal - check PA (Pyramyd Air) as they have them and a pic so you can see exactly what they look like. Also I
am thinking you'll need a short segment of pipe or tubing that just fits inside compression tube with one half of it cut away about an inch of a half long to use in
getting past/around or through the trigger assembly/mechanism as you use a spring compressor to control spring pressure. If I recall correctly I used a 2.5" piece
of 7/8s inch copper tubing with one end cut in half 1.5" - the halfed end inserted first to get past trigger assembly. I used it on 2 staged trigger Norica springers
which are pretty much the same as the Beeman Chinese springers with two stage triggers.
Air Rifle Headquarters (Jim Maccari) I'm pretty sure has a spring for this rifle - look down his two page list, I think it's on page 2.
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Offline agdodge4x4

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #6 on: September 21, 2018, 01:48:37 PM »
Now we're cookin!

Thanks guys!  I am going to go ahead and pull the stock.  From there I can assess the disassembly.  With info from airsenal and pics I've seen of compressors, I should be able to figure out what to build and how to use it.

I SUSPECT the piston seal is completely disintegrated, but obviously, I do not KNOW that until I open it up.  Even so, I can measure as Roadworthy suggests.  I have a caliper.

Now, why do I NEED to replace the spring?  Is there a reason to if the existing spring is not broken?
« Last Edit: September 21, 2018, 02:05:11 PM by agdodge4x4 »
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Offline Roadworthy

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #7 on: September 21, 2018, 02:17:09 PM »
I didn't say you NEED to replace the spring.  I was only trying to share a bit of information regarding how to get one should you need one.  If you can't find one listed for your gun, with that information you can locate a suitable substitute.
As far as spring compressors go - you can find construction information in the GTA library.  Mine doesn't remotely resemble anything shown there but it's still good information to have.
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Offline agdodge4x4

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #8 on: September 22, 2018, 12:20:15 AM »
Thank you so much for the time and advice, all.

I have the stock off. In the link you will find photos of my gun. It appears as though this is NOT a caged trigger assembly. It looks to be very simple and has only a couple of springs.

I am not sure that the spring compressor described will work. I have not really studied the gun but itís not immediately obvious how to compress the spring. Iím not sure what itís resting  on.

It will not let me post my google photo link. Iíll get photos up ASAP.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2018, 12:31:00 AM by agdodge4x4 »
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Offline Roadworthy

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #9 on: September 22, 2018, 01:40:46 AM »
Go back and read the post by "Arsenal" above.  He tells how to make the tool to compress the spring.
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Offline agdodge4x4

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #10 on: September 22, 2018, 11:02:14 AM »
Yes.  I have reviewed that again.  I understand the tool and how it is used.

I also looked at this gun again and that tool will not be needed as is is described.  IN this gun, in my pics, you can see a 'square' part.  That piece is part of the trigger block.  It protrudes from the end about 1/8".  All I need here is a standard compressor setup that holds pressure on that while I remove the pins and back it out. 

EDIT:  I just saw a page with the attached pic

This is NOT MY GUN, but it looks relatively similar and I see a tool made here that is as described.

Which way do these pins knock out?
« Last Edit: September 22, 2018, 11:26:24 AM by agdodge4x4 »
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Offline Roadworthy

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #11 on: September 22, 2018, 11:35:21 AM »
You appear to be really good with the pictures.  Thank you for that.  The last picture is probably the most confusing to me.  On many airguns the pins hold the trigger assembly.  The instructions on the last picture seem to imply that is not the case with this rifle.  I do have a thought on the matter, though.  Compress on the square extending from the gun - just a wee bit.  The pins should relatively easily be removed.  Back off the compressor and the trigger assembly will follow it until it is stopped by that cross piece.  At this point use the tool to compress the spring again.  The trigger assembly should then have no pressure and slip easily out the bottom.  You may then relax pressure on the spring allowing removal of the spring and piston.  Note - the cocking lever will need to be detached from the piston before the piston can be removed.  Beware - I've never seen the gun in person, never dismantled one, and this whole paragraph is only a guess on my part.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2018, 11:48:38 AM by Roadworthy »
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Offline agdodge4x4

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #12 on: September 22, 2018, 12:15:38 PM »
Thanks Roadworthy!  IN regards to the last picture, I will explain below, hopefully it will then make sense.

I've studied my rifle a bit more and 'tested' a little.  I can actually push at least one of those pins out with my finger if I press the gun on something solid against that square piece and relax it.  They are quite literally friction fit depending purely on spring pressure and held captive by the stock of the rifle otherwise.

However, I do not think this is the procedure as the trigger assembly does not come out the BACK of the rifle.  I think Airsenal got it and i think I understand it. 

Here is how I THINK it should come apart. 

First, I MUST build the compressor.  Disassembly is not possible without it.

The compressor as explained by Airsenal must be inserted in the end and you must compress that spring at least an inch or two toward the front of the gun.  This will allow the pressure to be removed from the trigger assembly, and it will allow the pins to be removed.  Also, at this point, you will have cleared the 'opening' where the trigger is.  It should now be free of the spring block, and with the pins out, the entire trigger assembly, fully assembled, will push forward toward the front of the gun and pull out.  From there, the spring can be relaxed back toward the rear of the gun and come out the back.  The cocking lever should be pretty obvious once I get to that point.  I believe this to be the procedure as there are trigger pins that are held captive by the air chamber/cylinder walls.  Therefore, there is no way to disassemble the trigger group prior to removing it in its entirety.

We'll see.  I have to dig around in my barn and see if I have any tubing to build a compressor.  With the compressor, this should be a very easy, fast, and simple disassembly.

Sorry for all the wordy overthinking.  I work on vehicles, tractors, and mechanical stuff all the time and I can assure you I can put on safety glasses and start beating pins out, but If I am right here, then it would not only damage the trigger assembly, it may destroy it and the cylinder and likely make it very difficult if not impossible to reassemble without further damage.  Planning and understanding is everything, I believe.

« Last Edit: September 22, 2018, 12:24:49 PM by agdodge4x4 »
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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #13 on: September 22, 2018, 12:56:19 PM »
Instructions for building a spring compressor may be found in the GTA Library.  I'll try to attach pictures of mine as well.  The basis is usually a C clamp and a board.
If I understand things the compressor can push against the square piece.  That will relieve spring pressure and allow the pins to be removed.  When you back off the compressor you install the tool.  Crank the compressor again and the tool should slip past the trigger to the spring.  Compress the spring to relieve pressure on the trigger package.  The entire package may then be removed from the bottom of the gun.
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Offline agdodge4x4

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #14 on: September 22, 2018, 02:13:20 PM »
I GOT IT APART!!!!

my work bench is wood, so I built my compressor with blocks screwed to the wood and clamped everything down.

I used a long pipe clamp, unfortunately, it was not quite long enough to fully decompress the spring but by the time it got to that point there wasnít but a little pressure and I could wrangle it by hand. It is exactly as airsenal said...about 4Ē of pre load on a beefy spring. Itís out safely and apart. It came apart exactly as I described.

The seal is completely gone. Iíll post a pic. I had to put it in my parts washer to clean all of the goop and seal pieces out. Itís clean now.

When I get ready to reassemble, I will modify my compressor a little with a threaded rod or bolt...or c clamp to facilitate easier assembly. Everything looks ok. All pieces are there and in working order. Just need a seal and a tune up.

The pic shows how the trigger comes out.

Bore is 25.83mm, bass where seal sits on piston is 25.00mm.

Need a seal for this.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2018, 02:47:53 PM by agdodge4x4 »
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Offline BrushPopper

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #15 on: September 22, 2018, 04:29:47 PM »
Yup, that piston seal is absolutely fried. Luckily, 25mm is a common size.
Should be able to find a replacement without too much trouble.
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Offline agdodge4x4

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #16 on: September 22, 2018, 06:51:08 PM »
I got the screw out that held the sea in place but it was a real pain and the threads are buggered up on it. It went back in and holds ok but now I realize that it was pinned and I never saw the pin screw. Wonder if I can just give that pin screw another 1/16 turn and repin or do I have to replace both screws?
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Offline Bentong

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #17 on: September 22, 2018, 07:19:12 PM »
You ca get your parts from arrow guy.
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Offline agdodge4x4

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #18 on: September 23, 2018, 01:48:26 AM »
Ok. I got my feelers our for parts. Now, Iíve been reading docs and pages and links about lubes  for a couple of hours and Iím confused as ever. What is a suitable lube for this gun for the piston seal? I read that full synthetic is good and so is something called Krytox, but thatís pricier than Iíd like to spend given that this gun isnít exactly a high end unit. I have full synthetic motor oil out the wazoo though. But what should I do here?

Iím also confused on how you can achieve proper lubrication of the seal of you only lightly coat the outside edges of it and the cylinder is slides in is dry.

Thoughts?
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Offline Roadworthy

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Re: Beeman Sportsman 1000 Repair
« Reply #19 on: September 23, 2018, 04:07:21 AM »
Moly works well on seals, too.  This is a concoction consisting of at lest sixty percent molybdenum disulfide.  You can purchase it from Air Rifle Headquarters if you get your seal there.  He has a pretty good price on a good quantity of it.  If you go to Vortek they may sell it as well.  You could even just purchase molybdenum disulfide powder and burnish it into the compression tube.  If you do smear moly compound into the compression tube make sure it's a VERY light coat then wipe it out.  A very thin layer will remain.  Add a small amount on the lip of the piston seal and you're set.  Add some to the sides of the piston.  I like to put some on the cocking shoe or in the cocking slot as well.  While the gun's apart file any sharp edges off your cocking slot.  They can slice a new seal.
Note - when you get the new seal onto the piston and the piston into the compression tube it should take two to three pounds of force to move it in the compression tube.  If it takes much more the seal should be sized.  If it takes much less than that the seal is too small.
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