Got my China compressor Problem

[Fly]

This in the one I have.   
https://www.ebay.com/itm/263398306809 . 
Mine is a 110 volt!
Ok I went over it making sure every thing was tightend. I hooked the water up & got it flowing. Now maybe this was the wrong thing to do
but I opened both bleed valves before I turned it on. When I flipped the on switch it hummed & popped the over load switch. I could here a
small pop, like a air pop both time I tried to start it. I drained the oil, pulled the head & saw nothing wrong, the lower unit was free no binding
turns over by hand. Any Ideas?

                                                     Fly

[avator]

I heard one member said he gave the cooling fan on the motor a little "goose" and got it going.

[bandg]

Opening the bleed valves is what is normally recommended.  Many folks have suggested running it for some time with the bleed valves open-no load on the compressor-for breakin.  As noted above, I would use a screwdriver or similar to turn the fan as much as possible (power off and unplugged) to see if it will begin to turn.  If you can't turn it by hand, then you may have oil or other material inside the cylinder(s).  I have read about at least one instance where they were nearly full.  Could also have a defective relay as it has been reported to be an issue as well.  You did reset the circuit breaker?

[Talan]

I have read here that some, when new might have tight spot in low press. cylinder.  After they run a while it will get smoother.  That may be why giving the fan a little help might get it started.  Leaving the bleed valves open when starting is recommended by most users.  Let us know what you find.

[mr.grimm]

Your outlet might not be a high enough amperage. Try a 20 amp outlet if you have one. Also are you sure it is 110v. They might of sent you a 220v.

[Fly]

Well when I took the bottom end side cover off it did have a little tight spot in it. I really did not think it was very bad. But I put in
some oil in and put the piston on the freest location of rotation. It busted off, then stopped again. So I pulled the fan grill at the back
& turned it to the free spot again & it busted off & ran very good. I let it run about 2 min & then put that pressure plug in the end of the
hose. It built up a little over 3000 psi & then stopped again.

I pulled that pressure plug out & it started up & ran fine. I,m just going to have to run it in for some time. Now I ordered 110 unit & it
has a 110 plug on the cord. But may be what they just change the plug & it is 220v? How can a guy check that? 

                                                                                    Fly

[hollowpoint1911]

There's no easy way to tell if you have a 110 or 220 motor, but if you the US-110v then I'd bet your motor is 110 too. I haven't heard of a instance where someone had a US-110 plug shipped with a 220 motor. Usually if they are wrongly sent the 220 version, the plug is 220 as well.

As for your problem, if you really feel there's something binding in the reciprocating assembly (motor, crank, piston), the first step I would take is to disassemble the cylinder head and check out the parts. You'll probably find some metal shavings in there, though it might not be serious enough to bind the whole thing up. If it's something else that's causing the issue, it should be very apparent once your inside.

When I first got my compressor, the circuit breaker would trip within a minute of the compressor being on. I fixed my issue by replacing that thermal circuit breaker with a name branded component picked up from Amazon. Mine is a NTE electronics 15A thermal circuit breaker. I've read from some other people who experienced the same issue say that they fixed it by moving the thermal breaker to the outside of the compressor housing because heat and/or EM interference was causing the breaker to prematurely trip.

Hopefully that gives you a few things to try out. If you feel like the motor/rotating assembly is really binding up, you should tear in to those components first because relocating or replacing the circuit breaker is only going to be a bandage solution if your compressor is really out of wack. When I replaced my circuit breaker I had already torn the whole thing apart so I knew things were mechanically sound and my problem was with the really low quality electronic components.

[Fly]

Well if you read my post above I said I did tear it down & it is clean & the rod
 & piston clearance seems find. It may indeed be the thermal circuit breaker. I
will check that out, Thanks.

                                         Fly (PS) would this be one that you are referring to? 

[Fly]

I ordered that switch, can,t hurt for the one that comes on this compressor is very cheap looking. 

                                                       Fly

[bandg]

Chinese (and I suppose European) 220 is apparently quite different from US 220.  I have a 220v Tuxing and a 110v Yong Heng.  They have the same plug on the cord, the US standard 110v plug.

[dmeguy]

Your outlet might not be a high enough amperage. Try a 20 amp outlet if you have one. Also are you sure it is 110v. They might of sent you a 220v.

I can second this. I work for a company that installs vertical platform (wheelchair) lifts. They require a dedicated 20 amp circuit. If it is not a dedicated circuit and there is too much current being drawn elsewhere, the circuit breaker on the lift will trip every time.


The fact that it is starting, takes the capacitor out of the equation. Once moving, I would think that a tight spot would be too easy to overcome with inertia, unless it is so significant that it could cause other issues. I would suspect the outlet circuit or the circuit breaker on the unit.

[Fly]

So Gary if I changed out my wall breaker to 20 amp would that make it a 20 amp circuit. I,m a mechanical fellow
not a sparky guy at all. Like I said in my post above when I pulled the lower cover the tight spot was very slight.
The Rod clearance was great & the piston was not all that tight. That's why I thought it must be a Electrical problem.
I could get it going with a little help by rotating it to the bottom of the stroke where it have time to move free before
it came up to the compression cycle.
I did not check it in my shop yet. Just on my back deck.

                                                              Fly 
 

[gendoc]

So Gary if I changed out my wall breaker to 20 amp would that make it a 20 amp circuit. I,m a mechanical fellow
not a sparky guy at all. Like I said in my post above when I pulled the lower cover the tight spot was very slight.
The Rod clearance was great & the piston was not all that tight. That's why I thought it must be a Electrical problem.
I could get it going with a little help by rotating it to the bottom of the stroke where it have time to move free before
it came up to the compression cycle.
I did not check it in my shop yet. Just on my back deck.

                                                              Fly 
 

before you change out the breaker to 20 amp, make sure your wiring is sized at #12 awg... if you had a 15amp breaker originally, you could have #14 awg wire, which cant handle 20 ampere loads over a period of time.
and verify your wiring is copper and not aluminum .

 and also check the specs on your recepticle to make sure its rated at 20 amps.
 please be safe

[dmeguy]

So Gary if I changed out my wall breaker to 20 amp would that make it a 20 amp circuit. I,m a mechanical fellow
not a sparky guy at all. Like I said in my post above when I pulled the lower cover the tight spot was very slight.
The Rod clearance was great & the piston was not all that tight. That's why I thought it must be a Electrical problem.
I could get it going with a little help by rotating it to the bottom of the stroke where it have time to move free before
it came up to the compression cycle.
I did not check it in my shop yet. Just on my back deck.

                                                              Fly 
 

I'm not an electrician, so I don't know the specifics. I think there is more to it than just a simple breaker change. But I would definitely try using another outlet.

[Hsbgshop]

My compressor had its fan pushed onto the armature shaft too far and had a power cable caught on the plastic blade housing consequently locking it up and popping the breaker. The plastic fan is just press fit onto the shaft so I just pulled it out a bit to clear everything and off my compressor went.

Also on the current load of the circuit running the comp.....

A light power cord is not going to cut it. Plug directly into a solid and short run 15 amp or preferably a 20 amp outlet. Anything else might run it for a little while, but a light power cord will begin to get noticeably warm. Had mine trip it’s own onboard breaker after about 8-10mins from overheating.


So far so good with mine for 156.00 delivered...(crossed fingers)

[cootertwo]

I've got an un-opened yung heng in 220 volt. When I frag my tired butt out to the barn, I'll look to see what king of plug it has.

[Fly]

Well I have not moved it to my shop yet. But I did start it up & ran it for about 3 min & then it shut down. I waited a few min
& started up again & ran it over 5 min before I turned it off. It does seem to getting better. But I,m starting to think the thermal
reset switch is much of it. Plus breaking it in is helping also. I,m starting to think the cheap relays & thermal switches are maybe
the biggest problems. I,m going to put that restart switch in mine that Hollow point recommended, & maybe a new contact switch
(American) in it also. I really don't think these compressors are all that bad if a guy puts in better switches & contacts from what I see
so far.

                                             We shall see!  Fly

[avator]

I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure if a amps on a breaker are not high enough, the breaker would "kick". ie.. if the breaker is not "kicking" changing it won't solve the issue. If you plug too much into a circuit, the breaker "kicks". That's kinda the whole idea behind a circuit breaker.

[Fly]

You are most likely right. It is the trip out load switch that keeps kicking off. It has been running for some time with the valves
open so I thought let,s try it. I plugged it in my Hatsan flash that already had 2500 psi from hand pump. When it built up to that
& just started to move the needle the motor kicked off again. Temp on compressor 32 C. I tried again & same thing. I do not have
a clue. Could it be that reset switch on the compressor? 

                                                  as the ole Beatles song goes  Help I need somebody, won't you please help me? 

                                                                                                           Fly

[Fly]

Well one more report for the night. I got the compressor to fill my gun. I,m not to sure what I did right so I will go
over this. With the probe plugged in to the gun. I opened both valves & started the compressor. I then the closed
the one on the right where the line feeds to rifle, the pressure was rising but slow so I slowly started closing the valve on the left & the pressure
started rising very fast. Now the rifle already had 2500 psi & I wanted 3000. When I hit 2500 it was rising slow but I
backed the left valve out just to release some pressure being afraid it would trip that over load switch AGAIN. Then I closed it
& let it build to 3000. Yes! but just before I started to release pressure & turn it off the pressure switch tripped & beat me
to turning the compressor off.

Water was 38 degree C. Does that not sound like pressure trip switch is defective? This unit is working great except for this thing
cutting off to soon. It just does not want to take a load other than a very short time. 

  I ordered the switch Hollow point said he used. I think I may have to deal with this till that switch gets here. That sounds like a problem with these. Hey if that's it I,m happy other than all the hair pulling. I wil report back. It great to have forms as this to share these problems ! Thanks to all that gave there input to
help. We should make a list of things we have run into. Then when some on buys one & as a problem he or she can refer to the list. The things I have seen
people having problems were mostly minor & cheap fixes.

                                                                                           Fly