Installed a Vortek PG2 Kit in my Diana 34 (T06) .22

[ChickenSlayer671]

I posted this over at the DWC on Thursday the 23rd and thought I would share it here as well.
Here is the full link at DWC if you're interested: http://www.network54.com/Forum/184474/thread/1308890324/last-1309395608/Installed+a+Vortek+PG2+Kit+in+my+34+%28TO6%29+.22

Hey guys, I just installed a Vortek PG2 Kit in my Diana 34 TO6 Classic .22 about a couple weeks ago and I thought I would share. I know many of you have done this upgrade before but it's always good to see what others have done and the outcome. First of all, Tom from Vortek was very good at answering all my questions by email and sent out my kit really fast. His online site only accepts PayPal which I really hate so I used a money order from the post office to process my order. Thanks Tom.

Before the upgrade, I had about 1,200 rounds through her. From the beginning, the cocking action was really rough. It was very crunchy and it honked. It sounded like there was sand inside the receiver as I cocked it. All that noise can easily spook game.

I ran a chrony string with my ProChrono Digital between the 900-1,000 round mark with the old factory spring & seal to get an idea of what she was pushing out. From my understanding, it should be well broken-in and a good time to debur and clean out the receiver and install the new Vortek Kit.

Here are some numbers with the old factory spring and seal.


CPHP 14.3gr.
Average: 686
ES: 16
SD: 5
FPE: 14.95

RWS Superdomes 14.5gr.
Average: 699
ES: 15
SD: 5
FPE: 15.74

H&N FTT 14.66gr.
Average: 660
FPE: 14.19

Predators 16.2gr.
Average: 649
ES: 10
SD: 2
FPE: 15.16



Here she is in my new spring compressor I recently built.




I tapped out the two pins holding the trigger assembly and the internals inside the receiver.




I started backing out the trigger assembly and spring. In this pic, this was all the spring pre-load I had. About 3 inches.




The trigger/safety assembly easily came out of the receiver.




I then removed the factory main spring. All I can say is, it was bent badly! Lol!


Here it is next to the new Vortek spring.



I then removed the barrel so I could take out the piston. I didn't want to mess with the E-clip to remove the cocking arm out from the piston. The E-clip was hard to reach so I went the other route by removing the barrel only. The cocking shoe easily came out of the piston once I removed the barrel.








I cleaned up the piston and did an inspection of the old factory seal and noticed it was damaged.




I had a tough time trying to install the new Vortek piston seal onto the piston. As you can see in the picture below, I had it clamped so it wouldn't move and I still couldn't get it on. I then tried letting the seal soak in a cup of hot water to make it softer but it still didn't work. I think I said every cuss word in the book trying to get that stupid seal on.


I finally got the seal onto the piston by placing the seal face down on a rag and pressing the piston on top of the seal with both hands until it seated. That was a relief.




I then deburred the receiver and cleaned out the compression tube wit denatured alcohol until the rags came out white. I used the grease that came with the kit and lubed behind the seal face, the back of the piston, spring and guide and put everything back together. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the complete assembly process cus I was too excited of the project coming to a completion...lol!




Here are some chrony numbers I took immediately after I installed the Vortek kit and lube tuned my 34. I figured it would be a little slow but would eventually pick up in FPS. All shots through the chrony were 10 shot strings.

CPHP 14.3gr.
Average: 680
ES: 9
SD: 3
FPE: 15.04

RWS Superdomes 14.5gr.
Average: 696
ES: 6
SD: 2
FPE: 15.61

H&N FTT 14.66gr.
Average: 674
ES: 15
SD: 4
FPE: 14.8

Predators 16.2gr.
Average: 628
ES: 20
SD: 5
FPE: 14.2

After one week later and 300 pellets down the pipe with the new Vortek kit, I was curious to see if FPS would increase and it sure did. I will run another chrony string after the 1,000 round mark and report back soon. I hope this post turns out well as I am posting from my mobile phone. Thanks to everyone here who helped me out and posted similar topics as mine. I hope my post helps out those that had questions as I have had. Here are the numbers. I believe it will only get better.

CPHP 14.3gr.
Average: 696
ES: 20
SD: 6

RWS Superdomes 14.5gr.
Average: 709
ES: 10
SD: 3

H&N FTT 14.66gr.
Average: 686
(Forgot to get ES and SD)

Predators 16.2gr.
Average: 641
(Forgot to get ES and SD)


Edit: I just ran another 10 shot string last Sunday with CPHP 14.3gr and my average was 713fps.

[Onebaddj]

Man that old spring was definatly bent a little. Good job on the tune sounds like it worked pretty good.

[Rocker1]

I noticed  when you took the old spring out I did not see the spring sleeve had it been removed?? Thanks David

[ChickenSlayer671]

I noticed  when you took the old spring out I did not see the spring sleeve had it been removed?? Thanks David

What spring sleeve?

[s10gto]

The sleeve is a piece of sheet metal wrap around the outside of the spring. I believe 34's don't have sleeves. I think thats a 350 thing? Atleast my two T05 34 don't have them.

Nice numbers you got there. The 34's are so nice to shoot with a tune. Very nice detailed post Thanks! 


 Dustin

[Mark 611]

Good job on your work and install!

[hw77grey]

Good job on your 34, thanks for the post, it is fun to tune and fun to read what others do.

[Donewiththis]

Hey,
I know this an old post, but I wanted to say thanks, because it really helped me with my install.   I built my spring compressor a little smaller (I have to take the barrel off) but otherwise my design was similar to the one in your photos.   I wasn't sure where you applied the molly, so I just put a little on the piston (made it sticky) and I put a bit more on the spring.   I kept the seal dry.   If it needs more, I'll open it up and add some later.   Thanks again.  Your photos really connected the dots for me.   By the way, I have the same Hawke mount & scope, and I'm not sold on the mount.    Considering other mounts, but don't know which way to go.   Thanks again. 

[TooJung2Die]

Hey,
I know this an old post, but I wanted to say thanks, because it really helped me with my install.

This was a good post and I am glad you pulled it back out. I also read your other post http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=60614.msg603234#msg603234 regarding your experience of dealing with Umarex warranty service with interest.

I too have a new D36 T06 in .177 that's less than a year old and has less than 1000 shot cycles. So far so good for me. It was rough sounding when cocked but I recently put a few drops of synthetic oil mixed with moly paste on the spring coils. That smoothed it out noticeably. The accuracy of the gun is exceptional and on par with my RWS 45 made in '81 and "Laserized" by RWS back when they were headquartered in NJ. Customer service was exceptional when RWS provided their own customer service.

Because of your experience and similar new D36 owners I'll now have to take the gun apart to check for trouble brewing before something breaks. It's under warranty but the last thing I will do is return this gun to Umarex.

[Donewiththis]

Hi TooJung,
Thanks for reading my posts.   I really didn’t want to make disparaging and negative comments about Umarex, but I wanted interested people to know what my experience was, and hopefully avoid making the same mistakes.     I really believe that Umarex could open-up the new guns before sending them out to vendors, and clean and lube them corectly.   This would resolve most of the issues consumers have.    However, if Umarex did this, people wouldn't buy the $50.00 RWS cleaning kits with the magic oils.   Furthermore, after people use these magic RWS oils, Umarex makes more money repairing the damage from the use of these oils and lubes.    I honestly believe that Umarex is very much aware of what they are doing.    That's dishonest.    That's a scam, and that's what makes me angry.   With that said, as long as a consumer knows what they are getting into, and if the consumer is willing to puzzle out the issues with their new 34, I suppose all is well.    However, after paying the price for a new 34, shipping it back to Umarex for repairs, buying the RWS Snake oil, buying a tune kit, building a spring compressor, etc......I believe I would have been better off just buying a quality HW rifle right from the start.    Moving on,....I'm still not sure I installed this Vortex kit correctly.  By that I mean the molly lube.   I've put about 40 pellets down-range, and I'm getting smoke from the barrel.  It also seems louder and has seems to have more power than before.   The power is a good thing, but I don't want to cook the seal and break the spring by detonation.    I have not put the scope on yet, because I might open the rifle (again) and inspect the seal.   I don't like doing that, because each time I run the risk of damaging the seal when I remove the piston.      My old (original) spring looks good, and I will probably order a couple more seals fom Vortex.   They run about 10.00 a copy, so it isn't a real big deal.  I keep reading about the "tar" lube that JM sells, and I might do a little of my own testing and research.   I suppose I'll need a Chronograph.    Yea, just wanted a good solid .22 pellet rifle to amuse myself with, but it has turned into tools, spare parts, puzzles, etc.   Hey thanks again for your response. 

[TooJung2Die]

Welcome to our addiction. I just wanted to learn how to properly lube my old RWS 45 and I now I have a dozen airguns and a shop bench dedicated to airguns. 

[Donewiththis]

A shop bench just for air guns?   Well, the first step in recovery is to admit you have a problem!       I was looking at your list of rifles, and I didn't see a Daisy 853.   I just took delivery of two 853 rifles from the CMP.   The CMP Is selling them out at $100.00 each plus 15 for shipping ($22.00 if you order 2).   Completely serviced with new seals, etc.   No special paper work or requirements.   Smooth deal.  I emailed the CMP guy my credit card info on an order form, and the guns were on my door step 2 days later.   Mine came with new-in-the-box peep sights, sling, butt stock extensions, a few front sight inserts, basically a complete kit; nothing to buy except pellets.   The 853 rifles normally sell for about 300+.   I read that these were used by ROTC and 4-H Clubs, etc.   The two I received were really clean, and shoot one hole groups at 10 yards.  The drop at 25 yards was about 2", and my groups opened up to about 2" as well.   They are grooved for a scope.   The serial numbers start with U.S., and they have wood stocks.   I believe they were made in the USA.    The only down-side is they are low powered rifles, but really low noise. I've been shooting the cheap Daisy .177 pellets at about a penny a piece, and it's cheap & easy fun.   I can't wait to find a mouse in the house.     

[rijo joseph]

The way you put the seals into the piston is be best and easiest way to do it... i have done the same with my 350 mag last week. instead of using the vortek lube I used ARH moly grease slightly over the piston seals piston and some other areas like cocking shoe, barrel to chamber contact area and at the end of piston which get locked inside the trigger unit.

[dwalk]

The sleeve is a piece of sheet metal wrap around the outside of the spring. I believe 34's don't have sleeves. I think thats a 350 thing? Atleast my two T05 34 don't have them.

Nice numbers you got there. The 34's are so nice to shoot with a tune. Very nice detailed post Thanks! 


 Dustin

the older beeman R10's came with the sheet metal sleeve, too.

[dwalk]

Hi TooJung,
Thanks for reading my posts.   I really didn’t want to make disparaging and negative comments about Umarex, but I wanted interested people to know what my experience was, and hopefully avoid making the same mistakes.     I really believe that Umarex could open-up the new guns before sending them out to vendors, and clean and lube them corectly.   This would resolve most of the issues consumers have.    However, if Umarex did this, people wouldn't buy the $50.00 RWS cleaning kits with the magic oils.   Furthermore, after people use these magic RWS oils, Umarex makes more money repairing the damage from the use of these oils and lubes.    I honestly believe that Umarex is very much aware of what they are doing.    That's dishonest.    That's a scam, and that's what makes me angry.   With that said, as long as a consumer knows what they are getting into, and if the consumer is willing to puzzle out the issues with their new 34, I suppose all is well.    However, after paying the price for a new 34, shipping it back to Umarex for repairs, buying the RWS Snake oil, buying a tune kit, building a spring compressor, etc......I believe I would have been better off just buying a quality HW rifle right from the start.    Moving on,....I'm still not sure I installed this Vortex kit correctly.  By that I mean the molly lube.   I've put about 40 pellets down-range, and I'm getting smoke from the barrel.  It also seems louder and has seems to have more power than before.   The power is a good thing, but I don't want to cook the seal and break the spring by detonation.    I have not put the scope on yet, because I might open the rifle (again) and inspect the seal.   I don't like doing that, because each time I run the risk of damaging the seal when I remove the piston.      My old (original) spring looks good, and I will probably order a couple more seals fom Vortex.   They run about 10.00 a copy, so it isn't a real big deal.  I keep reading about the "tar" lube that JM sells, and I might do a little of my own testing and research.   I suppose I'll need a Chronograph.    Yea, just wanted a good solid .22 pellet rifle to amuse myself with, but it has turned into tools, spare parts, puzzles, etc.   Hey thanks again for your response.

i learned "The hard way" NOT to open up an airgun that's under warranty...nullifies that warranty in most cases. talk to the dealer you purchased it from FIRST.

[Buldawg76]

Here the trick I use to install the piston seals on the cone shaped style piston noses and work very well and easy to do.

Find a socket that the rear end where the ratchet or extension fit in it and make sure the diameter of the socket is just slightly larger of a diameter than the cone on the piston and lube the socket up with your choice of lubes and place the front of seal on the rear of the socket so that the larger cone shape of the seal is against the socket and with your finger work it on over the rounded edge of the socket and then with the piston supported vertically in a vise or other means of securing it place the socket on the top of the piston with it centered over the cone on the piston so that the seal is spread out larger ith a than the cone and with two fingers from both hands evenly spaced around the seal and with a quick even pressure push the seal onto the piston so that it goes right past the piston cone and on to the piston with out issue or excessive force or prying that can damage the inner surface of the seal.

[Gear_Junkie]

Thank you for this post, AND ESPECIALLY FOR THE PICTURES!!!

[Mateo74]

If you pull it apart again just go ahead and decrease and re lube with Krytox and you will not have to worry about dieseling.