7 by 14 mini lathes , 368 shipped

[Rob M]

TASO , that qctp is awesome, i have the same model on my g4000 just a size up.. they go by different names mine is bostar. ..You can check runout with anything precision ground.. electric motor shaft, a good end mill ,it just needs to be a perfectly concentric part , so nothing like aluminum rod or delrin rod .,, Things that require a precise fit

[Artie]

The shaft from an old dot matrix printer or one from an old gas strut are great canidates for a quick alignment tool.
OXA is perfect for your machine, I almost wish I had one on my 9x20 instead of an AXA.

[YEMX]

Hey Tom! (Yemx)

My lathe came with the 4" chuck.

Lucky!!!

[soupyyy]

So I got myself the QCTP Taso posted and it looks great but i have a question about the position pin.  How do I remove it so it won't be in the way of the new QCTP.

[Taso1000]

On my lathe the only thing holding the pin in is gravity and grease.  I picked it out easily and there is a small spring under it so get that out too so it doesn't work it's way out and get lodged somewhere and cause mystery issues.

Thanks,

Taso

[soupyyy]

On my lathe the only thing holding the pin in is gravity and grease.  I picked it out easily and there is a small spring under it so get that out too so it doesn't work it's way out and get lodged somewhere and cause mystery issues.

Thanks,

Taso

I will try that tonight.  Thanks Taso.

[rangerfredbob]

If it doesn't get in the way of the new tool post, wont hurt a dang thing to live there either...

At work we have the 9X whatever LMS lathe and got the QC tool post, we took off the stock one and instead of using the hex nut that it came with used the stock lever nut, put a washer under it so it didn't point right in the way of looking at what you are doing, is super easy to fine tune the makeshift angle of whatever we are doing... BTW, if you have $1600 to throw at a benchtop lathe, that thing is pretty cool! There are things I'm better at with my 7x12 but it has a tachometer and overload protection so you don't break gears...

[Taso1000]

So I did more smoothing of mating surfaces of the compound rest rails and gibs.  At first I hit the mating surfaces slightly with a fine file and then 400 grit sandpaper against a flat piece of glass or backed with the file. 

I then remembered I has some fine a coarse valve lapping compound.  I tried the fine compound first and liked the results so didn't bother with the coarse.

I cleaned off all the grit and sprayed Remington DriLube on the mating surfaces.  It was slick but didn't feel smooth.  So I wiped it off and tried Locktite moly paste .  I liked how this felt much better.  It made everything feel smooth and solid. 

I am going to go and hit all the mating surfaces with 400 grit sandpaper as it was a much finer finish than the lapping compound.  Then I will hit the mating surfaces again with 600 grit. 

I will clean the surfaces real good again with WD-40 and apply moly paste and reassemble. 

I got some steel rod from Menards and I'm itching to make some chips.

My machined shaft also arrived and I chucked it up.  If I'm reading my gauge right, I have about .00075 runout.

The gauge face says the increments on the dial are .0005".  The runout I get at about 1/8" outside of the jaws is one and a half increments.

But at about 8" outside of the jaws I get about 6 increments of runout.  I will not be machining that far out and I think I can minimize the runout with the copper ring and the spider one the spindle output opposite the chuck as in this video:



Thanks,

Taso