RIP Vevor!

[Harpoon1]

With less than an hour of total running time since being purchased, my Vevor now refuses to start.

Was attempting to refill a tank again yesterday, and going to start it up again after a cooldown period, hit the switch and nothing! No click, no nothing. Other than the light in the switch was still working. Checked the breaker it hadn't tripped. Tried another outlet, nothing. Completely dead. Bummer!

Popped the back cover and everything looks fine. All the connections looked good, snug. Nothing that was obviously burnt or black. No unusual "electrical" smell. Hmmmm

I guess the simplest thing would be, the switch is bad. Put a multi-meter on the switch and only get continuity across one side, other side, nothing? And not sure how the little light in switch comes into play when trying to check it either? Clearly, Im no electrician.......so if anyone has any advice on how to test the switch and/or troubleshoot the circuit with a multimeter..........I'm all ears. Otherwise, I'll probably just order a new switch, they cant be that much?

Anyone have a source for the switch?

Thanks.

[Xraycer]

This thread may resolve your issue

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=137176.0

[Harpoon1]

This thread may resolve your issue

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=137176.0

Dinh

Mine doesnt have the "relay" that his does. I think he has the "automatic shutoff" model, mine is just the basic, no frills unit. I have just an on/off switch, no "relay/controller", if thats the right terms?

Thanks for the heads up though.

[Tweeter]

Did you try giving the motor/fan a couple spins by hand?  I know you said it didn't even make a click or humming noise (like it is trying to start) but worth a shot?  Electricity is the one thing I don't like messing with, sorry I can't be more help.

Can you bypass the switch just to make sure it's the culprit?

[Harpoon1]

Did you try giving the motor/fan a couple spins by hand?  I know you said it didn't even make a click or humming noise (like it is trying to start) but worth a shot?  Electricity is the one thing I don't like messing with, sorry I can't be more help.

Can you bypass the switch just to make sure it's the culprit?

Justin

Yep, spun the fan blade/motor a couple of times to check for any hudraulic lock. All good, spun freely. Just normal piston, cyclical, resistance.

Good idea about bypassing the switch. I"ll try that today and see what happens.

It's a pity. With the extra ice I was using , I was able to get the temperature stabilize right at 64.8C . I stopped it right before this just because it was the longest run I had gotten out of it sp far, 10 minutes. Was running great! 

[Tweeter]

That stinks man.  Hopefully it just needs an inexpensive switch and you're up and running!

[hollowpoint1911]

If you bypass the switch and don't have any luck, try bypassing the circuit breaker (only for debugging purposes). It's the black rectangle box on the side with the round button. On the chance that it's the thermal circuit breaker, you can source a higher quality and same spec'd NTE branded circuit breaker from Amazon.

[Mudbugmitch]

Sorry if I'm repeating what has already been said. But I believe this needs 20 amps. I can get my Yong Heng going on 15amp circuit but it has to be alone .. No circulator pump running. Once it starts, I plug in the pump.
I have used my compressor for about a year now, no problems other that that.

Hope this helps,
Mitch

[hollowpoint1911]

I think that's good advise going forward, it even intrigues me enough to put a Kill-a-watt on the compressor and measure the draw later this week. But if his compressor isn't starting up at all now, I don't think the problem is with the power source, but with a electric component instead. The nice thing about the Vevor is that the electronics are really simple. You have the electric motor, starting capacitor, switch, and thermal circuit breaker. The temperature display is on its independent circuit. If the motor hasn't completely died, the other parts are not horrible to replace.

[Harpoon1]

Good news!

Bypassed the switch and it "lit" right off. And........now the switch is working again. I checked it yesterday, several times and again this morning several more times, and was only getting continuity on one side. Kept working it back and forth, on and off and after doing the bypass check with the compressor, figured I tried it one more time ......and low and behold, it started working again. 

I'll get a new switch anyway, this one is intermittent at best and on the way out, and cheap enough to replace. And, if it does &^^& out, now I know how to just bypass altogether and turn it on and off by plugging it in. 

Thanks for all excellent help and suggestions

And the Vevor saga continues............

[Tweeter]

Good to hear, another Vevor back to life!  Viva La Vevor AY AY AY!!!

[Tweeter]

Hey Harpoon, would any old switch work?  I'm not that familiar with switches and how electronics work but just wondering if one of those hardware store toggle switches would work just fine?  I mean all it is doing is letting power move through to the motor right?  Of course you would lose the red light but I think you can hear if your compressor is running or not haha.

[Harpoon1]

Hey Harpoon, would any old switch work?  I'm not that familiar with switches and how electronics work but just wondering if one of those hardware store toggle switches would work just fine?  I mean all it is doing is letting power move through to the motor right?  Of course you would lose the red light but I think you can hear if your compressor is running or not haha.

Yep, I beleive it would. Its just simple on/of switch, so it should, at least with these units. Just be a matter of where to put it.

Again, with a couple of "jumpers" you could just bypass switch permanently and just use the plug. One less thing to fail!

[Xraycer]

IT LIVES!!!!!!!! bwahahaha

[hollowpoint1911]

Technically the switch is a double pole single throw switch. You're closing 2 circuits with 1 switch. You can get away with using a single pole single throw switch (think basic light switch for the home) if you paired the 2 circuits together. Most important is that the switch should be rated for 125VAC and a minimum of 15A, 20A preferred.

[avator]

LOL... almost sounds like an "oh, you mean this little black reset button?" moment... just kidding, glad you got it going.

[travelbike]

you think. a double pole breaker switch housed in a box would work?

[avator]

Be a perfect time to also include a switch for the water pump.

[Harpoon1]

LOL... almost sounds like an "oh, you mean this little black reset button?" moment... just kidding, glad you got it going.

Ha! That was the first thing I checked! Wish it would have been that simple.

[Harpoon1]

Well that didnt last long! 

Went back out there to try it again and it started fine, no problems. Temp was stable in mid 50's when it peaked out, so I just let run. After 20 minutes I cut it off, well, just because. Out of couriosity, tried  to start it right back up and the switch was now stuck in the off position. And I mean stuck, had to really use a lot of force to break it free. And when I did, I got nothing. No click, no nothing, nada. Dead! Deader than a Doornail!  Game over! 

So I just yanked it, screw it, had enough. Hard wired the jumpers in its place and went to using the plug to turn it on/off. Works fine now!  Like I said eariler, now its just has one less thing to fail!

Unless someone can come up with a good safety reason why I should install a new switch, I plan to just leave it the way it is. Doesn't really matter, at this rate, its not going to be around much longer anyway!