Any one ever heard of the Dynamic PCP air rifle?

[Wayne52]

I just shoot til it comes off the regulator and take my best guess at what it is.  I wouldn't go much more than 1/2 turns if I was you because I had opened mine too far the first time.  I had mine out in the woods today and shot a chipmunk with it off hand but Chippers is about all I seen today.  I did some test shooting with the cast diablos that I had with me today, they were pretty accurate out to 50 yards but further than 50 the accuracy started dropping off.  I'm going to take it out tomorrow too and I've got about 50 of the JSB King Heavy MKII's I'm going to try in it.  I know them pellets are great for long distant shooting.  When it comes right down to it I rarely shoot much more than 35-40 yards in the woods anyway but I'm just wanting to know what the DAR is capable of with good pellets.  For as rainy and drizzly as it was today I still had fun testing it out, these guns are decent shooters for sure.  Once the barrel has about a thousand rounds through it that'll probably improve too.

[Hawkeye51]

This has probably been covered, but does the barrel shroud have any baffles & how effective are they? Is the muzzle blast directed backward toward the breech like a P-rod or just "dead space"? Can an after market moderator be easily installed if the end cap is unscrewed? Threaded barrel, or just shroud? Thanks.

[Wayne52]

Yes one guy took his apart and said there are aluminum baffles in it, he had to drill his out because the pellets were clipping them I guess, I don't seem to have that problem myself.  I loosened all the screws on mine but at the time it still didn't want to come apart, eventually I'll fool with it again, for now I'm just wanting to shoot it myself

[Hawkeye51]

I totally understand. Thanks for all the information that you have already provided Wayne. Just enjoy it for a while, it sounds like a lot of fun.

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

Mike,  here's a picture of the baffles.  There are 5 of them, they are held in place with the small threaded spanner plug then the end cap.  They are flat on the ends, not cone shaped like the Marauder baffles.  They are effective, but probably could be improved upon.  I'm wondering if cone shaped baffles that seat into one another like the Marauder baffles and the Gauntlet baffles Haji makes would be quieter, especially if the spanner plug was replaced with a spring that would allow the baffles to separate a bit when the rifle was fired.  I have tried both the Marauder and Gauntlet baffles and both have a larger OD than these do.  There are no vent holes in the shroud either, none that are visible from outside the shroud anyway.  I have not completely removed the shroud, so it's hard to say how it's configured where it attaches to the breech.

[Nvreloader]

Guys
Thanks for the good info provided,

A question for you all that use this brand of AR.

In the 17 and 22 calibers,
what would the Longest overall pellet than can be used in these mags?

Has anyone done any measurements, for total inside mag operating depth?

I know in the Mrod mags, 22 cal, QB 79,
the longest pellets that will work reliably,
is the Ultra Shock Heavy Diabolo, @ 25.39 gr weights, with a .330" length.

Tia,
Don

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

The longest pellet I have tried are the .177 Sniper Magnums, which are .3215” in length. It appears the space between the insider of the cover and the inside of the bottom of the magazine is .3830” long, so a pellet that’s ⅜" long should fit.

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Paul

Did you mean to say a length of 3/8" = .375", instead of 3/4" = .750".   

I am thinking real hard on a 17 cal. 

Tia,
Don

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

Thanks Paul

Did you mean to say a length of 3/8" = .375", instead of 3/4" = .750".   

I am thinking real hard on a 17 cal. 

Tia,
Don

YES!  There I go showing my math skills again!     Fixed it!  Thanks...

[TheSaint]

FYI: when you take the stock off and look at the bottom of the monoblock trigger group, you will find a 2mm ( it's the only 2mm head) Allen set screw. It's the one closest to the front of the tube,. It's a bleed screw. Just loosen it a bit and the air will bleed out. It's a lot simpler than cracking the gauge, or shooting the gun down.

The other allen screw is there to lock the hammer, during shipping/assembly. You can remove it, or lock-tite it halfway out so it doesn't interfere with the hammer.

[Gertrude]

I got to spend some time with the .25 this weekend.
So far I am pretty impressed with the overall performance. I will be making a post of my results soon.

I want to do some work on the trigger.
Does anyone have some pics they can post up here showing the internals of the trigger group ?

Thanks

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

I got to spend some time with the .25 this weekend.
So far I am pretty impressed with the overall performance. I will be making a post of my results soon.

I want to do some work on the trigger.
Does anyone have some pics they can post up here showing the internals of the trigger group ?

Thanks

LOL!  It's not your typical trigger group, i.e. a side cover you can remove and peer inside.  There are 2 hex head screws that you remove, but that just allows you to remove the trigger guard.  From what I can tell, everything is held in place with pins, and they will fall out if you aren't careful (it's already happened once). The only thing holding the pins in is the stock!  Assembling this thing looks akin to building a ship in a bottle, everything gets loaded from the bottom! 

Needless to say, I'm not brave enough to venture in there and put electrical tape on both sides of the trigger assemble to prevent the pins from falling out when I remove the stock.

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

FYI: when you take the stock off and look at the bottom of the monoblock trigger group, you will find a 2mm ( it's the only 2mm head) Allen set screw. It's the one closest to the front of the tube,. It's a bleed screw. Just loosen it a bit and the air will bleed out. It's a lot simpler than cracking the gauge, or shooting the gun down.

The other allen screw is there to lock the hammer, during shipping/assembly. You can remove it, or lock-tite it halfway out so it doesn't interfere with the hammer.

Mike, excellent information!  I used that method this afternoon after seeing your post, loosening that 2mm set screw worked perfectly! 

[Gertrude]

I got to spend some time with the .25 this weekend.
So far I am pretty impressed with the overall performance. I will be making a post of my results soon.

I want to do some work on the trigger.
Does anyone have some pics they can post up here showing the internals of the trigger group ?

Thanks

LOL!  It's not your typical trigger group, i.e. a side cover you can remove and peer inside.  There are 2 hex head screws that you remove, but that just allows you to remove the trigger guard.  From what I can tell, everything is held in place with pins, and they will fall out if you aren't careful (it's already happened once). The only thing holding the pins in is the stock!  Assembling this thing looks akin to building a ship in a bottle, everything gets loaded from the bottom!

Yes I see what you mean by no cover plate. Strange.
The "mono block" includes the Breech, Hammer housing, and trigger assembly Side Plates. All one piece.
Yes it will be a bit difficult to see what we can do to lighten the trigger pull. It is pretty stiff, and could certainly stand to be much lighter.
I too am a bit reluctant to start pulling pins out of the trigger group without some sort of diagram first.
This morning, I sent Ryan an email and a voicemail ask I g for any/all available exploded view diagrams for the entire rifle, and especially for the trigger group.
I was hoping to go into the trigger group today to see what is causing the heavy pull as well as the slight "gritty" feel of the trigger. I imagine that there are some parts in contact that would benefit from a polish and light lube job. I'm pretty confident that would get rid of the gritty feel, and then maybe replace a tension spring with a lighter rated spring ? Maybe ?

I will let you all know when I hear back from Ryan at Aim Sports. Hopefully he will be able to provide us with some assembly views or exploded views.

This rifle has a lot of potential once we figure out how to take it apart and put it back together. I'm looking forward to the challenge.

[fivestar45]

Can someone take a minute to put a bare DAR on a scale?? I'm curious as to how much these actually weigh.
Thanks

Guy's..Does anyone that owns one of these rifles also own a scale, and has the time to weigh it.

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

Can someone take a minute to put a bare DAR on a scale?? I'm curious as to how much these actually weigh.
Thanks

Guy's..Does anyone that owns one of these rifles also own a scale, and has the time to weigh it.

Not sure how accurate this is, I weighed myself without the gun then weighed myself while holding the gun. The difference was 6.5 lbs.  This was without a scope or magazine, but it was filled with air!

[Wayne52]

When I took the trigger mechanism (basically almost everything on the gun) I ended up having a mystery part which I finally figured out, they can be a real pain to work on but doable, I needed to use a dull pick and pair of small hemostats to get mine back together.  Taking pictures really would have been hard while I was reassembling it though and that was the last thought in my mind at the time.  I will take it back apart eventually but I'm having too much fun shooting it now.  Right now I have mine adjusted about 3/4's turns out from where it disengages the seer.  It's actually not bad right there especially after I got everything cleaned up from the salt residue inside.  I used only Hoppes #9 main to stop corrosion but polishing stuff would have helped a lot.

[Wayne52]

Can someone take a minute to put a bare DAR on a scale?? I'm curious as to how much these actually weigh.
Thanks

Guy's..Does anyone that owns one of these rifles also own a scale, and has the time to weigh it.

Not sure how accurate this is, I weighed myself without the gun then weighed myself while holding the gun. The difference was 6.5 lbs.  This was without a scope or magazine, but it was filled with air!

Paul when I was carrying mine in the woods today it felt like the same weight as my SPA M16

[Nomadic Pirate]

So, this was the very 1st ever batch of them rifles right ?

Betcha they will get better and better as they get feedback,...looking pretty darn good as a starter.

[Hoople]

FYI......my DAR22 with no scope, 3000 psi fill, empty mag. and 2 sling swivel studs added weighs 6lb. 14.2ozs. Weighed it on my Postal scales which are accurate to .1 oz.