Maximus Marauder Trigger - Stock Modifications

[Dead Springer]

I bought a marauder trigger for my maximus some time ago.  After installation, the action rocks a little (yes, I modified the trigger guard opening) in the stock because the shape of the new trigger doesn't have the platform that settles on the bottom of the stock where the trigger guard exits.  Does anyone have a step by step for the maximus stock modifications that are required to have a secure fit?  Now that I've sold everything else, I'm needing to get this issue settled...

Thanks in advance.

[FuzzyGrub]

I built a gun using the maximus airtube and stock, with a Mrod gen 1 trigger.  The only stock mods I did was cutting infront of the trigger, mostly for trigger guard.  I also had to do some end cap relief because I used a prod endcap vs maximus.  Post a picture of your action and I can compare to mine.  I don't recall if I used SHCS or something lower profile to mount the trigger assy. 

[mobilehomer]

This may help. Chamfer the hole on the trigger housing that the stock mount goes through. The bottom of the mount needs to sit flush to the housing. This is where mine was pivoting.

[Dead Springer]

Pivoting sounds exactly right and it seems to be pivoting just in front of the stock mount screw.  So I think you have it right, but I can't picture what exactly you're referring to.  Any chance you have a photo?

[mobilehomer]

Where the yellow arrow points. I also thinned my housing a little because the MRod housing is about 1/32" thicker than the Disco/Maximus.
Red rectangle.

[Dead Springer]

So, file down the stock where it has a lip around the post where the stock bolt/nut sits?  Sorry to be so thick.

Also, just to make sure I'm not crazy, the air tube only touches the stock back near the action right?  Free floated off the stock the rest of the way out.  All along the stock under the air tube is at one level and then just in front of the stock screw it bumps up about 3/32".

[datilD]

I installed a Marauder trigger on my Maximus.  It was pretty easy overall, and I gave some details with pictures in this thread:  https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=129354.msg1272572#sharebuttons

You can do most of the work with a hacksaw blade and a file.  I used a coarse and fine file.  I would mark the cuts, trim the plastic and test fit the trigger.  The hardest part was widening the opening.  The trigger seats perfectly.  I got some stainless hex head bolts to secure it, and it is rock solid.

I recently started working on the project again.  I had to shelve it due to an insane work load and an air leak that was hard to pinpoint.  I fixed the leak at the fill port, and need to documenting the remainder of the build.  It turned out exactly where I wanted (40+ shots at 710fps with CPHP), but is a bit louder than expected with the Clague LDC.

[FuzzyGrub]

I verified that the only mods I did, was what I posted above.  Here are pictures of mine.  Also, the airtube fits solid in the stock, almost like a snap fit.  It is not floated like a gen 2 mrod stock.  Hope these pics help you.

[Dead Springer]

Thanks for the pictures.  That looks like what I have done so far, except that you've changed the breech block.  Mine still pivots up and down.  In your last picture, it looks like the stock raises on the air tube as it goes towards the barrel end.  That is what mine does, but then it pivots back to level and back and forth.  Tightening the stock bolt does not stop the pivoting.

[FuzzyGrub]

I can remove the stock lug and it still doesn't rock.  I have to pull on the action to pop it out of the stock.  It is from the fitting around the airtube.

Last week, I received a Boyd's stock that was on sale.  It is inletted for the disco.  I just installed the action into it.  I did get some rocking at first, but it was just the SHCS that was holding the trigger guard on.  I took that off (still held in place with black elec tape) and it fits the action with absolutely no stock mods.

Correction: It is looser than the oem stock. I can shift the action slightly side to side (not up and down), pivoting at the stock lug.  A thin plastic shim on both sides should fix that.

[mobilehomer]

File the frame down where indicated by red arrow(excuse my terrible art work).  Chamfer the hole indicated by the yellow arrow so that the stud is flush.

[Dead Springer]

That makes more sense.  Thanks for the follow up.

[FuzzyGrub]

File the frame down where indicated by red arrow(excuse my terrible art work).  Chamfer the hole indicated by the yellow arrow so that the stud is flush.

I can't say I've seen others have to file down the trigger assy.  Maybe some plastic flash at the stock lug hole?  Are you using a trigger assy shim?  If so, how thick?   Maybe that's the difference?  I'm not using a shim and don't have excessive sear drag on the hammer. 

[datilD]

I forgot to mention that I used a trigger spacer from Airgun Labs (now being sold by DiscosRUs). 

[mobilehomer]

File the frame down where indicated by red arrow(excuse my terrible art work).  Chamfer the hole indicated by the yellow arrow so that the stud is flush.

I can't say I've seen others have to file down the trigger assy.  Maybe some plastic flash at the stock lug hole?  Are you using a trigger assy shim?  If so, how thick?   Maybe that's the difference?  I'm not using a shim and don't have excessive sear drag on the hammer.

Yes, I do have the shim. My action was pivoting on the stock lug. The cause is the lug sitting up much too high. I filed it down the thickness of the shim, .030". Then I noticed the lug was still sitting proud of the housing. That's when I noticed the lack of chamfer. Now - no more pivot.

[Dead Springer]

Now everything is making sense.  I have the spacer also.  So it sounds like using the spacer may cause rocking in the stock.  I approached it in a slightly different way that I feel works well.  I placed a felt furniture pad in the stock near the far end.  It is somewhat compressible, allows the air tube to move around and takes up the slack.  It is working well and required less filing which I was hesitant to do.

Thanks all for the input!

[FuzzyGrub]

I think the shim is the difference and causing the rocking.  The lug receptacle should be flush, as MH mentioned.   Mine is, but don't recall having to Bellville it to get that.  Tolerances on crosman parts is not the greatest.

The trigger assy in the Gen 1 Mrod, was first used (and still is) in the challenger, same part number.  It has the same diameter and thickness airtube as the disco/maximus.   What you have to watch out for, is excessive sear drag.