Let's see your 3D printed parts/models/ideas

[Bob Pratl]

It amazes me, to no end, on now accurately you can produce a part after it is calibrated.

[Kerndtc]

Just got done with my Moderator/ shroud for my rapid MK2. Looks great and is super quiet, my AZ shroud was 5-6" longer than this and wouldn't fit in the safe.

Very impressed with these printers.

Cameron

[Bob Pratl]

Cameron, that is an interesting cup design. What advantage does that design have over the Marauder K baffles? 
Do you know the ratio between the calipers and the cups entrance hole?
Have you done any sound checks? I'm very interested because I'm trying to tame a .30 Mrod conversion and a .357 Evanix using the standard K baffles.

[Kerndtc]

Cameron, that is an interesting cup design. What advantage does that design have over the Marauder K baffles? 
Do you know the ratio between the calipers and the cups entrance hole?
Have you done any sound checks? I'm very interested because I'm trying to tame a .30 Mrod conversion and a .357 Evanix using the standard K baffles.

Honestly the biggest advantage for me was the fact that they were fairly easy to draw.
They work great, I have purchased machined aluminum ones from eBay and these work just as well. It is very quiet, I don't have a decibel meter, but it is much much quieter than without the moderator.

Also the diameter of the tube is larger than a marauder shroud, mine is 28mm ID. I will do an accuracy test soon.

[Bob Pratl]

Honestly the biggest advantage for me was the fact that they were fairly easy to draw.
They work great, I have purchased machined aluminum ones from eBay and these work just as well. It is very quiet, I don't have a decibel meter, but it is much much quieter than without the moderator.
Also the diameter of the tube is larger than a marauder shroud, mine is 28mm ID. I will do an accuracy test soon.

Thanks for the update, I think that I will give that a try and start with .020" greater than caliper diameter for the entrance hole. I'm trying to get my .30 down to less than 80 dB's.
There are some FREE dB cell phone apps that work very well.

[Scotchmo]

I've also done some recent shroud work for my custom Skyhawk. After switching to a longer barrel, I wanted to make it more backyard friendly. I did not want to modify or use the factory shroud. I printed a complete shroud with air baffles but the longest I could make is 12" (84db @3" from muzzle) so I ordered a 500mm long carbon tube and made a very long shroud (82db). That made the gun too long as I want to keep the overall gun length under 34". I ended up  shortening the carbon tube to 398mm (83db). The green end caps are a press fit in the tube but I'll likely glue them as well. My tube is also 28mm OD.

Printed one piece printed shroud (sanded and painted flat black):


Printed two piece + 398mm long carbon tube:


Various shroud designs:


Cutaway showing air baffle design:


I bought an inexpensive DB meter (it looks a lot like my wind meter). Not sure if it is very accurate but it gives me a fairly consistent reference.:

[Bob Pratl]

Scott, that is a real nice classy setup.

[Bob Pratl]

A rainy cold day so I decided to fabricate some baffles, like Camron's, to fit in a 1.250" aluminum tube. I just printed 2 and have 5 to go plus the end caps.
It's takes about 40 minutes per baffle. I'm hoping that they will work better than the Marauder type baffles.

[AustinBinTX]

I’ve been running a couple Prusa I3 MK3S’ for a while.

Here’s the last thing I drew up and printed from PETG.

It’s a sliding top range/spare parts box with custom text for each rifle.

[AustinBinTX]

One more part.

Here’s a QB78 riser breech.

Drawn up in Fusion 360. Printed from PETG with a .6 nozzle and a layer height of .3. Total print time is 4.5hrs. It’s more than strong enough for CO2 pressures with the way the transfer port is, but I don’t have a warm fuzzy feeling about going with HPA.

I have a repeater version that takes the Marauder magazines drawn up, but it still requires the barrel to have a nub machined, and I’m assuming the bolt would need to be thinned a little to fit through the magazine.

[Scotchmo]

The length of pull was a little too long on my Skyhawk, so I replaced the adjustable buttpad with a thinner/fixed version that I printed. Spacer is PLA 100% fill. Pad is flexible thermoplastic, 1.2mm walls, 15% fill.





STL files - use as you see fit.
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-BP-00.stl
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-BP-spacer.stl

[Scotchmo]

Most all the fill stations that I encounter have a Foster fitting on the air line. I made this so I don't keep misplacing the probe. It keeps the probe attached to the gun. It also makes it easier to attach/detach the air line.





STL files - use as you see fit.
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-probeR-00.stl
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Skyhawk-probeR-01.stl

You'll also need (2) M3x12mm long flat head fasteners, and (2) M3 nuts,

[Kerndtc]

I've been busy the past month, having fun drawing up things and printing.

1: shorty diffusers for my Prochrono

2: Grips and a stock for my wife's 1720t

3: valve removal tool for my CZ200 (regulator should be in next week or so)

4: First sttempt at a CZ200 FT stock. Need a few more tweaks but it is about 90% perfect. Very surprised it dropped in almost flawlessly.

[TleVta]

May be some profit to be had for someone making probe holders.

[kcatx]

My son got a great deal on a cheap CTC printer and my first print was this FX single shot swivel tray.
Found here:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3733163
Seems to work well so far.

[Norbertoislas]

This turned out to be a much more involved/difficult than I had originally thought it would be. There were several iterations and multiple test prints of the various aspects of the design before the final print.

Final (most recent) CAD layout:


Final (most recent) solid model:


Slicer run:


It ended up OK. Could be improved even more but it's good enough to use now:

Your design is awesome, can you share your STL?

[Scotchmo]

This turned out to be a much more involved/difficult than I had originally thought it would be. There were several iterations and multiple test prints of the various aspects of the design before the final print.

Final (most recent) CAD layout:


Final (most recent) solid model:

Your design is awesome, can you share your STL?

The Gauntlet version is not a simple project, so you are on your own in printing/using the files. There are three other printed parts to the assembly. You will also need a M8X1.25, 40mm long hex bolt, nut and washer for the threaded adjuster.

http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-09.stl
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-0-10.stl
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-1-10.stl
http://www.scotthull.us/3Dprint/Gauntlet/Gauntlet-cheek-2-10.stl

[Norbertoislas]

Awesome!

Thanks Scotchmo

[avator]

This turned out to be a much more involved/difficult than I had originally thought it would be. There were several iterations and multiple test prints of the various aspects of the design before the final print.

Final (most recent) CAD layout:


Final (most recent) solid model:


Slicer run:


It ended up OK. Could be improved even more but it's good enough to use now:

Your design is awesome, can you share your STL?

Love to have this setup on my Urban.

[Insanity]

Me too just for the riser alone. We would have to buy a EU stock to get the adjustable part then start designing and thats not in my interest.