Reticle Focus Locking Ring

[30harry]

I've been trying to find out just how many springer rated airgun scopes actually have the reticle focus locking ring.  It looks to me as if very few Leapers / UTG scopes have them.  I saw where one of their handgun scopes have them but "evidently" not something like the SCP3-UM416AOIEW compact scope which I"m interested in. 

I have an older scope that I have to turn out the focus ring pretty far on it to make it clear to me and then it looks to me as if the reticle moves up and down when any pressure is put on the focusing ring.  I don't know if that impacts accuracy or not but you can see the reticle move and the old one doesn't have a locking ring. 

Maybe there is tension on the UTG scopes that keeps it from moving when you shoot a springer but I can't tell from all the research I have done. 

When I talked to Leapers Tech Support they advised me to look at their web page but I find nothing that actually talks about a reticle focus locking ability on the SCP3 scope.  They just say turn it out until the reticle is in focus. 

Can anyone offer guidance on this issue?  Do you really need a reticle focus locking ring on a springer airgun scope? 

[Yogi]

What is your eye sight?  Do you shoot with glasses?

Most eye piece focus rings are deliberately very hard to turn.

-Y

[30harry]

What is your eye sight?  Do you shoot with glasses?

Most eye piece focus rings are deliberately very hard to turn.

-Y

Glasses are probably part of the problem.  I ended up buying the scope in my  original post above.  When you get the scope, the ring is turned all the  way in.  The more you turn it out, the more unstable it becomes.  But what puzzles me is the fact that something like the center point 4x scope has a locking ring but not the utg 4-16x44 compact which in theory, is supposed to be a much more upscale product. 

I ended up putting multiple layers of rubber bands around it to more securely hold the focus ring in place.  This seems to be working ok.  But it is nowhere near as secure as it would be with an actual locking ring. 

[nced]

What is your eye sight?  Do you shoot with glasses?

Most eye piece focus rings are deliberately very hard to turn.

-Y

Glasses are probably part of the problem.  I ended up buying the scope in my  original post above.  When you get the scope, the ring is turned all the  way in.  The more you turn it out, the more unstable it becomes.  But what puzzles me is the fact that something like the center point 4x scope has a locking ring but not the utg 4-16x44 compact which in theory, is supposed to be a much more upscale product. 

IMHO........the non-locking "fast focus eye piece" isn't an issue. I simply wrap the ring with black PVC electrical tape after adjusting to my eye as seen here..........
 
Actually, for adjusting my "fast focus eye piece" I set up at 18 yards (my upstairs max distance) and adjust the "eye piece" so both the target and reticle is in sharp focus AND the reticle remains "welded to" the aim point as I move my eye from side to side. When the reticle doesn't move with the "head bop" it means that the parallax is set so the image is positioned directly on the reticle. If the "fast focus eye piece" is only adjusted so the reticle is sharp it's possible that the image isn't "on top" of the reticle so the point of impact may change unless the eye is perfectly centered in the ocular every time. Myself, I prefer a bit of "eye placement slop".

Perhaps this will be of interest (setting up for high mag scopes used for field target competition)...........
https://www.bcsportsmen.org/ft/A_Team_Parallax_adjustment_procedure.pdf
 

[30harry]

What is your eye sight?  Do you shoot with glasses?

Most eye piece focus rings are deliberately very hard to turn.

-Y

Glasses are probably part of the problem.  I ended up buying the scope in my  original post above.  When you get the scope, the ring is turned all the  way in.  The more you turn it out, the more unstable it becomes.  But what puzzles me is the fact that something like the center point 4x scope has a locking ring but not the utg 4-16x44 compact which in theory, is supposed to be a much more upscale product. 

IMHO........the non-locking "fast focus eye piece" isn't an issue. I simply wrap the ring with black PVC electrical tape after adjusting to my eye as seen here..........
 
Actually, for adjusting my "fast focus eye piece" I set up at 18 yards (my upstairs max distance) and adjust the "eye piece" so both the target and reticle is in sharp focus AND the reticle remains "welded to" the aim point as I move my eye from side to side. When the reticle doesn't move with the "head bop" it means that the parallax is set so the image is positioned directly on the reticle. If the "fast focus eye piece" is only adjusted so the reticle is sharp it's possible that the image isn't "on top" of the reticle so the point of impact may change unless the eye is perfectly centered in the ocular every time. Myself, I prefer a bit of "eye placement slop".

Perhaps this will be of interest (setting up for high mag scopes used for field target competition).....
 

I'm going to try the electrical tape solution. 

That link is very interesting.  I'm going to attempt to set up my scope following that.  Perhaps when I have the scope "calibrated" using that procedure, the focus ring won't be nearly "turned out" as far as it is right now. 

Thanks,

[WeaselCat]

I have been thinking about this exact problem. Most of my scopes with the fast focus eyepiece are adjusted almost all the way out. I hate wearing glasses when shooting. On a couple scopes that are especially loose I cut a 1 inch section of bicycle inner tube and used it much like your rubbed bands. It works OK but there is surely a better way.

[30harry]

I have been thinking about this exact problem. Most of my scopes with the fast focus eyepiece are adjusted almost all the way out. I hate wearing glasses when shooting. On a couple scopes that are especially loose I cut a 1 inch section of bicycle inner tube and used it much like your rubbed bands. It works OK but there is surely a better way.

If someone just made a small ring to fit the scope, you could just unscrew the eyepiece, thread on the ring put it back together and "voila", you have a "lock ring". 

Mine is out too far also and that leaves plenty of room for an add on ring. 

I'm going to try the electrical tape trick. 

[nced]

I have been thinking about this exact problem. Most of my scopes with the fast focus eyepiece are adjusted almost all the way out. I hate wearing glasses when shooting. On a couple scopes that are especially loose I cut a 1 inch section of bicycle inner tube and used it much like your rubbed bands. It works OK but there is surely a better way.

If someone just made a small ring to fit the scope, you could just unscrew the eyepiece, thread on the ring put it back together and "voila", you have a "lock ring". 

Mine is out too far also and that leaves plenty of room for an add on ring. 

I'm going to try the electrical tape trick. 

Another "trick" I've used was to stack up several snug fitting (mine were tight) 1/16" cross section orings stacked between the scope "end" and the base of the fast focus eyepiece. I used enough orings (three in my case) so they were "jammed together" by tightening the eyepiece. Worked well to keep the eyepiece from rotating on it's own, looked neat, and it provided a way to adjust the reticle focus as needed. Actually, the "the "black vinyl electrical tape" is a simpler fix but it requires removal for future adjustments. Here is my current arrangement using 4 size 020 buna orings that were stretched over the fast focus adjustment........

The idea is to have the oring stack up a bit thicker than needed so the fast focus eyepiece is compressing the orings a bit when the final "sharp reticle or "head bop" adjustment is done". The downside of the stacked orings if real tight (like a size 020 oring stretched over my fast focus eyepiece adjuster) is that it's difficult to remove the orings unless they are cut.

[bandg]

Good ideas on this issue.  I've noticed on a couple of my scopes that don't have locking rings that a light touch on the eyepiece can change the viewed position of the reticle and this concerns me for accuracy.  There is supposedly a spring loaded internal mechanism that keeps the eyepiece centered but I have to run mine way out to focus correctly and the eyepiece can become quite loose.  I'm going to stick to locking eyepiece scopes for future purchases-the Hawke Sidewinder has such and works very well for me.

[30harry]

Good ideas on this issue.  I've noticed on a couple of my scopes that don't have locking rings that a light touch on the eyepiece can change the viewed position of the reticle and this concerns me for accuracy.  There is supposedly a spring loaded internal mechanism that keeps the eyepiece centered but I have to run mine way out to focus correctly and the eyepiece can become quite loose.  I'm going to stick to locking eyepiece scopes for future purchases-the Hawke Sidewinder has such and works very well for me.

Thanks for the recommendation.   I'm surprised by the number of scopes that do not have the lock ring.  Mine is also pretty far out and ANY pressure on it moves the crosshairs a lot.  I'm going to try one of the sidewinders.     

[WeaselCat]

I just received a Hawke 6-24x56 FFP scope and noticed that the fast-focus eyepiece has a lock ring. Hopefully, this will become the norm.

[bandg]

For anyone concerned about this and wanting a more rigid solution for those scopes without a locking ring, you might consider a two piece shaft collar from a supplier like McMaster Carr.  They are made in plastic and aluminum and might provide a solution to this situation.  Not sure how it would look on the scope but it should at least function to keep the eyepiece more stable if you can find one narrow enough to fit.

[Gear_Junkie]

The downside of the stacked orings if real tight (like a size 020 oring stretched over my fast focus eyepiece adjuster) is that it's difficult to remove the orings unless they are cut.

Ed, I do the same as you with the O-rings.  To remove the tight ones, just unscrew the eyepiece enough to get a toothpick under the o-ring.  This usually allows you to grab it with your fingers and pull it off. 

[Taso1000]

What about a correctly sized scope magnification lever:



I'm thinking an aluminum wouldn't grip against the ocular threads but I nylon one could possibly work as the nylon would imprint the tube threads and be more resistant to pushing forward.  I hope that makes sense.

Taso

[Gear_Junkie]

What about a correctly sized scope magnification lever:



I'm thinking an aluminum wouldn't grip against the ocular threads but I nylon one could possibly work as the nylon would imprint the tube threads and be more resistant to pushing forward.  I hope that makes sense.

Taso

Since I'm cheap, I'll stick to O-rings and electrical tape!

[Taso1000]

What about a correctly sized scope magnification lever:



I'm thinking an aluminum wouldn't grip against the ocular threads but I nylon one could possibly work as the nylon would imprint the tube threads and be more resistant to pushing forward.  I hope that makes sense.

Taso

Since I'm cheap, I'll stick to O-rings and electrical tape!

Nothing wrong with that! Cheaper is always better.   

Taso