I tried the longer screw after that but couldn't tell much difference.
It will definitely benefit from at least a lube tune as on the the 2 I've taken apart, one was pretty much dry and the other, I couldn't tell exactly what the black stuff was they used.You might also take a quick look at the barrel crown as both of the above benefitted from a little touch up and the one I rebuilt for gendoc flat needed to be.They aren't higher quality rifles, but for $100, mine are very accurate shooters with the few .20 cal pellets you can still get and I don't regret buying any of mine.
I've had mine for awhile now, and still love it. I've had it apart multiple times for my post "Aftermarket seal odyssey," in which I tried several different seals. That poor gun has been abused like no other gun I own, but it's still kicking! The last time I took it apart, I buttoned the piston and installed everything in a Hatsan 1000S synthetic stock. It ain't pretty, but it seems sturdier than the original green stock, which I really liked. It hasn't gotten as much attention these last few months as it is used to, but I still pull it out and sling lead from time to time. It's very accurate, very powerful, and in spite of being properly lubed/etc, is still a bit harsh. All this aside, it still stacks Benji cylinders at twenty yards, and hits the low 800s with H&Ns.
When done properly (which I'm not 100% I've done as of yet😉) it seems to quiet down the shot cycle a bit, and definitely gives me peace of mind knowing the piston skirt will not contact the inside of the airtube (no metal to metal contact requires less lube, too!). When done improperly (which I've done Once or twice) the buttons can slow down the piston at the beginning of the shot cycle due to stiction. The air tube (particularly it seems on Hatsans) are tighter in the rear portion of the tube, likely from the holes and slots being stamped out of the tube. I didn't realize that at first, and so had only limited success with buttoning. Once I figured out that I needed to open up the rear portion of the tube with a hone (pretty much From the front of the cocking slot rearward), I saw real progress and a return of lost velocity that couldn't be blamed on a seal. Going forward, I will likely button every springer I rebuild.
I've got a .20 VMX and a .177 gas ram Striker. They both have the longer trigger screw mod. The stock broke on both. Got to order some wood Striker stocks for them. I had a Springer .177 Striker and a gas ram .25 and sold them. For an economy .20 caliber the VMX is the only deal in town. If caliber is not an issue there are better and nicer looking guns in the same price range as the VMX/Striker/Edge IMO. Haven't heard any complaints about the Edge stock. I wonder if I could get the Edge moon camo stock It looks kinda' cool. Maybe one each, moon and wood. Be cool if they had the skull camo like Krale has.
I have the Harvest Moon camo stock, currently has my Edge .25 Vortex in it. Email Hatsan and see if they sell them, just be ready for it to be pricier than the standard black ones which used to be something like $34.95 plus shipping.
All this talk about the VMX is making me want to go shoot mine. I haven't shot it in months ! It is raining now , but I have a good place to shoot, anyway.
Yep. It still shoots !! I shot about 20 pellets through her & she shot just fine. I walked her back to the stable , afterwards.
Quote from: 19Sheridan57 on April 23, 2018, 02:35:10 PMYep. It still shoots !! I shot about 20 pellets through her & she shot just fine. I walked her back to the stable , afterwards. Got to stretch her legs out every now and then. Whats the go to meal she likes to eat?