Replacing lever/link pump assembly for Crosman 140

[RBQChicken]

I'm thinking of getting a replacement (new) lever/link assembly for a Crosman 140 (Sears) I've been working on for a buddy, but the lever will need to be drilled for the holes to install the wood forearm.

That's got me a little nervous since I don't have a drill press, I'd be doing it with a regular hand held drill.  For one thing, every time I've tried to drill steel I find it's really a bugger.  Not only that, but I'm worried about drilling straight, too.

I've been told the procedure is to have the new lever/link assembly installed in the gun, and the stock on the gun as well, so you just put the wood forearm up on the new lever and drill through the holes in the wood forearm and you get the lever drilled exactly where you want it.

Has anyone done this without a drill press?  Any tips?  What kind of drill bit to make it easier to cut through the steel?

Thanks!

[BrushPopper]

In ur shoes, I'd use a couple of heavy tie-wraps to hold the whole assy in place against the receiver while drilling. Regularly add oil to ur drill bit tip, it will cut steel easier with less dulling/binding.

Prolly drill one hole and check for roll-pin alignment/fit. Drill 2nd hole after the first is secured/pinned.

(Did a 1400, but too long ago to remember if a drill press was used or not)

Just my 2cent...

[Big Bore Bart]

 Go to Fastenal and buy a brand new cobalt 135* split point bit.   Either Viking or Norseman brand.   Any thing else is a waste of money, these brands will last for more holes and just cut better.

[RBQChicken]

Thanks for the tips gentlemen.  Here's one more question that I've always wondered about:

Since a roll pin has to be compressed a little bit to be tight, does the wood compress the pin at all, or is it only compressed where it passes through the lever arm?

Seems hard to believe that wood would compress the pin but if it doesn't, you'd think the pins would be a little loose in the wood after they were compressed by the lever arm.

[Tack Driver 10]

I replaced the pump link on my 140.

The two holes in the stock were drilled through one side so I sawed a groove in the pin and
pried the pin over with a screw driver then repeated until I could pull the pin out.
I did this to avoid adding holes to the opposite side of the pump arm.

I glued the new link to the wood pump arm with a light amount of polyurethane construction
adhesive then placed in the gun. When the glue set I removed it, drilled and tapped the arm
for 8-32 set screws. It's perfectly aligned and rock solid.

[RBQChicken]

That's a good idea.  When you tapped for the set screw, did the wood get threaded as well as the metal, so that the  screw has to screw through the wood as well as the metal?  Or is the wood bored slightly larger, so the set screw just pushes through it with a snug fit?

Oh, and how long a screw did you use? 

Thanks for the help!

[Tack Driver 10]

That's a good idea.  When you tapped for the set screw, did the wood get threaded as well as the metal, so that the  screw has to screw through the wood as well as the metal?  Or is the wood bored slightly larger, so the set screw just pushes through it with a snug fit?

Oh, and how long a screw did you use? 

Thanks for the help!

I checked my gun and I actually used 6-32 set screws.
Need to re-calibrate my eyeballs. They were 3/4" in length.
They fit fine in the existing holes.

When I make my wood pump arms I don't pin them and just glue them with the poly adhesive.
None have come loose.