Need advice on Sheridan valve removal

[n.h.schmidt]

 I'm attempting a rebuild of a mid 70s Sheridan silver streak. Most of it is apart. I have the special tool the PA sells with the seal kit. I have removed the nut with the square hole in it.  I have reversed the tool to thread on the the valve part. This should just pull out. It will not budge I have even put a bar in my bench vise to slide onto the tool on and pulled the tube body. No go so far. Would any of you who have done this have any suggestions ? I'm stumped so far. And I don't want to break anything.
 Thanks
 n.h.schmidt

[TerryM]

  Keep trying, it will come out.  Sometimes they are stuck pretty tight.  You might try a some penetrating lube on the valve.  I made this simple slide hammer to make the job easier.

[n.h.schmidt]

Hey that's really clever. I may have to give that a try. I do have Kroil I can put in there. Would a gentile heat like from a hair dryer do anything?
 n.h.schmidt

[TerryM]

  Can't hurt.  Go for it.

[Rob112o]

Yea it'll pull out. The lead oring is keeping it sealed in. Just keep pulling while your giving lateral play on the tool.

[ped]

the valve tools I make have a thread on for a wing nut which allows you to pull stubborn valve bodies easily

[RBQChicken]

Here are pics HoosierDaddy sent me of the valve puller he made.  You epoxy the bolt heads to one of the washers and screw a coupling nut onto each of them.  Then, after you screw the valve removal tool onto the valve, you drop the washer with the bolts down over the tool, then the other washer, then slip a phillips screwdriver into the hole above to hold it all in place (HoosierDaddy made a pin to  use instead of the screwdriver), and slowly wrench the coupling nuts off the bolts, a little on one side an then on the other, and it quickly loosens the valve to where you can pull it out.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Here is what I did...

https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=123617.msg1204961#msg1204961

*Edit*
HA!
Randy beat me too it!
 

[n.h.schmidt]

All great ideas. I'm going to try something today if I get the time. Ped  Do you sell the tools? I do already have the one tha PA sells.  Thanks for all the help with this. I get the feeling I may have to do the rebuilding more as time goes on.
 Thanks
 n.h.schmidt

[ped]

I do but I'm in the UK so postage would kill it I think
what I'd do is thread your tool

[n.h.schmidt]

  Thanks for the reply.  I do have one more question. Should the stock bolt come out before removal of the valve parts?  Mine will almost come out with the valve still in the tube. What to do?
  Thanks
 n.h.schmidt

[Rob112o]

The stock bolt needs to be out for you to remove the back of the end cap. If you are talking about what the stock screws threads into? Than no.

[RBQChicken]

??   IIRC, the back end cap is held in place with pins.  I agree, the stock bolt that is just forward of the trigger does not have to be removed first. 

[n.h.schmidt]

Ok   I didn't call it right but you guys figured it out.  Many thanks
 n.h.schmidt

[RBQChicken]

Yup, if you were trying to remove that stock screw while the valve is still in place you won't quite be able to clear the very end of the valve in order to pull it out.  Not a problem because that screw (bolt) does not have to be removed, period.

When I resealed one of my Sheridan's (the first and only one I've resealed) I had that bolt off because I was sending the pump tube/barrel off for re-soldering and I wanted it stripped of everything when I sent it.

After I got the valve installed I:
(1) felt a great deal of relief because I resealed a Sheridan myself without stripping the locking nut, and

(2) noticed I hadn't installed that stock bolt first

3) tried in vain to install the bolt without taking the valve back out

4) cursed a blue streak (pun intended)

5) took the valve back out, installed the stock bolt, and reinstalled the valve, successfully, again.

The second time putting the valve back in place went way faster because I now knew how it "felt" when starting that nut so I wasn't held back by fear.

[ujmrider]

I'm a little late on this thread but ,anyway.... I have a recently acquired Benjamin 342 that had damage from previous owner attempting to remove valve . Threads were boogered on the valve body so my puller wouldnt work. The retainer nut also had gouges from a chisel or screw driver, but it came out ok after soaking with a little PB Blaster and the proper tool . After pondering a bit I simply decided to give gun few quick pumps hoping pressure would pop out the valve. It did !! I found the valve body in a beam pocket across my basement. Crude I know but last resort, and it worked.

[RBQChicken]

That's a great idea. Never would have thought of that.  Just have to keep the end of the tube pointed in a good place, like a laundry basket filled with rags to catch the parts. 

[Hoosier Daddy]

I guess I am confused at what you all are calling the stock screw.
If it is the screw ahead of the trigger that holds the stock in place ... why would you attempt a reseal on a 'Dan with the wood stock on?

[RBQChicken]

I think he's talking about the bolt that the stock screw (the screw that holds the stock on) screws into. Come to think of it, the screw that holds the stock on screws into a long nut that is screwed onto a bolt that connects to the tube.  It's that bolt that connects to the pump tube that he's talking about ( I believe).

[n.h.schmidt]

I have the valve out.  Cleaned and replaced with the parts that came with the reseal kit. The lead ring was in rough condition so I used the split ring that came with the kit.How did you guys solve this problem.  The face of the nut that pushes on the valve has a short ,steep taper. . This taper expands the split ring long before you can get everything in place to begin turning the tool. The expanded split ring then blocks the nut from getting close enough to start in the thread. Anyone have this happen and how did you get around this?
 n.h.schmidt