My first tune job

[Yogi]

I find a nice fitted delrin spring guide, a fitted liner in the piston, and a fitted delrin top hat in the piston?
I don't need any lube on a spring.
Just a tad of the good molly and I'm golden.

The heavy tars and such dampened the spring buzz. With better ways to do that? Why even use heavy greases or tars?

I agree that as long as the spring guide if "appropriately snug" there is no need for "additional goops" on the spring that only serves to make the springer poi subject to temperature variations. Several years ago I nixed "normal airgun molly lubes" which are based on diesel prone "dinosaur grease" switching to non-dieseling Dupont Krytox GPL205 "space station grease".  Krytox GPL205 is used for all internal lubing of my HW95 and R9 along with snug fitting Delrin spring guides and am very satisfied!

Triggers too?

-Y

[Privateer]

If it looks like this image from a 125 rebuild.



What your seeing is the marks left by burrs on the transfer port. You can see where some of those burrs are embedded in the seal!

I use a long drill bit in a cordless drill to deburr and chamfer the transfer port.
The burrs can break off as you see above and cut the seal. I've also had the burrs bend over and block the port.

This is the scrap that came out of that same 125!

[nced]

I find a nice fitted delrin spring guide, a fitted liner in the piston, and a fitted delrin top hat in the piston?
I don't need any lube on a spring.
Just a tad of the good molly and I'm golden.

The heavy tars and such dampened the spring buzz. With better ways to do that? Why even use heavy greases or tars?

I agree that as long as the spring guide if "appropriately snug" there is no need for "additional goops" on the spring that only serves to make the springer poi subject to temperature variations. Several years ago I nixed "normal airgun molly lubes" which are based on diesel prone "dinosaur grease" switching to non-dieseling Dupont Krytox GPL205 "space station grease".  Krytox GPL205 is used for all internal lubing of my HW95 and R9 along with snug fitting Delrin spring guides and am very satisfied!

Triggers too?

-Y

Well.....for triggers I simply "hose the internals" with RemOil and blow out the excess. I really don't like "goop" in triggers because I've seen Rekords with solidified grease inside. I do use a bit of Krytox on the sear surfaces however.

[mac]

Thanks Jeff, I think that is what I,m seeing on my seal and I would not have thought about deburring the transfer port.Sure was a lot of crud in that 125!

[REACTOR - NIN]

Scott, I have finished my home made top hat and spring.  guide.
It works , and doesn't break after I try them on firing about 150 pellets . I made them using NISSAN spark plug connectors. They are easy to work with, the material seems to be delrin or acetal.IDK. Maybe Steve or Jeff knows . It's easy to work with, it can withstand heat, doesn't melt, crumble or crack when I cut and file it with a grinder.

[REACTOR - NIN]

Complete!

[REACTOR - NIN]

Another 100 shots, and still going strong. ....(Hopefully )
The material may not be delrin. .. , it could be Polyphenylene sulfide or PPS.

[Privateer]

Dee,

 1st thing I can tell you is the spring guide is to thin.
It should be a slightly snug fit to the spring when not compressed.
Your guide appears to be pretty much like a stock guide.

I have a part I made to compress the spring as if in the gun.
I then make the spring guide to just need a little force to put it in.
That is what will remove the need for tars and such.

[REACTOR - NIN]

Jeff, you are totally right. The diameter of the guide are too small. There is a little  cranking sound, when I cock the rifle. The first set with the aluminium rod was quiet but the base ( made from a long nose oil bottle cap) broke after 10 shots.The aluminium rod fix snugly in the spring.
I will try the endurance test on the Nissan guide for a while ,then I will re-modify it again by slotting the aluminium rod into the guide.

[REACTOR - NIN]

Scott, you can also use a small round file ,and extent the handle with a pvc pipe to deburr the transfer port.

[mac]

Been out of town since Thursday and haven,t been on line while gone so I did not see your post until today Dee.

Thanks for the tips and innovative ideas.It helps to get the old wheels turning for alternative ideas.I,m going to order my seal and some lube tomorrow and hopefully get on with it this weekend.I just have to come up with a way to hone the compression chamber.

[Privateer]

I use a piece of fiberglass pole with a bit of foam pipe insulation attached.
I wrap 400 grit wet/dry around that. It's just snug enough to break the glaze on the chamber.
I use a fast in and out motion to get the cross hatch effect.
I do this in a 5 gallon bucket of water to keep the sand paper lubed.

Cheap and easy.

[mac]

Thanks Jeff !

[mac]

I should re-title this "The longest tune ever" LOL. Still not done due to too many other irons in the fire and not being able to get to it.
I now have everything de-burred,honed and polished including all of the trigger parts.I just have a few more questions.My aim with this tune was to make it smoother cocking,quieter and a hare more docile for backyard shooting so I also cut 2 1/2 coils off the spring.
I made a soda bottle piston spacer and the spring is now pretty snug in the piston.I can still spin it when in the piston so does that mean it is okay and wont get too tight when its cocked?
I bought a new vortek seal,PG2 lube and molly lube.I made a top hat but it only fits without the sleeve.So will I get the same results as far as a quieter shot cycle with no top hat and the sleeve with a polished penny or no sleeve with the top hat and a little more PG2 on the part of the spring thats in the piston?
One more thing,my hats off to all the people who tune guns for other people.There is no way that I would want that responsibility!!

[nced]

Been out of town since Thursday and haven,t been on line while gone so I did not see your post until today Dee.

Thanks for the tips and innovative ideas.It helps to get the old wheels turning for alternative ideas.I,m going to order my seal and some lube tomorrow and hopefully get on with it this weekend.I just have to come up with a way to hone the compression chamber.

I personally hone my HW springer receivers only of the receiver ID has a constriction that affects the sealing of an oring sealed piston cap. If I'm running a "rubber parachute seal" I don't mess with my HW receiver IDs at all. IMHO, springer receivers aren't automotive cylinders that require a "crosshatch honing" to seat steel piston rings and feel that cross hatch honing only serve to "pump" lube to the front of the piston seal with every shot till the "combustibles" are used up.

For years I honed HW receivers to smooth out the HW factory honing for use with my oring sealed piston caps and learned years ago that the "smoothed up" receiver worked every bit as good with factory parachute seals as it does with oring piston seals. Evidently HW realized the same thing since their HW95 receivers look exactly like my receivers after the CNC process is completed. LOL....Here is the untouched receiver ID of my HW95 as it came from the factory...........


Here is a HW95 receiver I honed to reduce (not remove) a constriction.........

To determine if honing is required with the later HW95 receivers I first slide this home made gage down the receiver.........

If the gage slides the whole length of the receiver tube it's "good to go", if it gets hung up in the receiver then the receiver gets honed with this home made contraption........

The mandrel is made from PVC pipe that has been turned to be straight and sized so a wrap of oiled 500 grit wet-or-dry is a snug fit to the receiver id. The "hone" is mounted in my lathe chuck and the receiver tube is "moved back and forth" to even out the honing along the length of the tube until the "gage" will slide the whole length without hanging up.

In the old days when HW "hand honed" their HW95 receivers I found more than a couple that had their receiver tubes "belled wide'" at the transfer port to the point that the orings I used couldn't maintain a proper seal at the critical high pressure at the transfer port. Those receivers were useless for oring sealing, however they worked just fine with the parachute seals at that time.

Anywhoo.......I personally believe that cross hatching is a leftover from the days of diesel prone petroleum based lubes where it was thought that the "residue of lube" in the "cross hatching scratches" fed lubes to the piston and piston seal. The notion was that after the "dieseling dinosaur grease" burned up the molly residue would remain in the scratches to provide a metal to metal break between the steel piston and steel receiver. Funny thing is that molly lubes do absolutely nothing to break metal to metal contact between a rubber seal and steel receiver.

For several years now I've nixed the idea of cross hatches in my receiver tubes (I don't "mirror polish" however), plus I've replaced diesel prone petroleum based molly lubes with the non-dieseling synthetic "space station lube" called Dupont Krytox preferring the "Plain Jane" GPL205 formula after trying several different variations.

[mac]

Thanks for all the info/help Ed.I finally got it put back together today and it,s shooting pretty nice.No more grinding or honking when cocking or twang when shot,just a nice thunk.