My first tune job

[mac]

I decided to try my first lube - tune on my 95 spring version.

[mac]

Well I hit the wrong key again and posted before I finished so I will try this again.

Like I started to say this will be my first tune/lube and it will be on my 95 springer.

I have it apart and have already lost the detent ball for the safety .Went to the hardware store and picked up a few different sizes and it looks like a 3/16 should work? Does it just sit on top of the spring or is there something else that I lost?

Probably a lot more questions to follow so thanks in advance.

[lefteyeshot]

Sweep the floor and go thru the pile. You might find it.

[mentolio]

If memory serves, it just sits on top of the spring. What kind of lube(s) are you using? Replacing the seal?

[mac]

Well I took Tim,s advice and it kind of worked.I had my doubts because my garage is small and pretty cluttered right now with various dirt bike projects,but while moving stuff around so I could sweep I think that I found it.I was looking for a steel ball bearing but I found a white plastic ball somewhat close to where there end cap/safety landed.

I was going to use this red SuperTech lube from Walmart that I saw Mike Ellingsworth suggest in one of his videos.What do you think of that stuff?

The reason that I took it apart is that after about 300 shots the cocking cycle has gotten crunchier and also started to kind of honk a little.So my aim is to smooth it out and get rid of as much twang as possible.I plan on doing some of the things that the WelfedIrishman did in his post,but he did use traditional lubes so that,s why I asked about the stuff that Mike suggested using.

The seal looks to be pretty good so I was going to re-use it,but if I decide to order moly paste and tar I might get a vortek seal also.

I,m hoping that polishing the cocking slot in the tube and on top of the piston will help smooth that out.I was also planning on a plastic sleeve inside of the piston and polishing the spring ends.

Thanks for the help!

[SteveP-52]

That little white ball is what you're looking for, played hide and seek with mine when it went flying.

Don't know about the Supertech stuff, I only the ARH moly paste and the small 2 ounce jar did 12 air rifles including the fact I use it on the springs, barrel forks and veryyy lightly on trigger parts, $8.80 currently at ARH:
http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm

Seals are a personal choice and if you've read enough, you know shooters have their preference. I've used both the ARH and Vortek and found my own personal preference is Vortek. Definitely let us know what you think no matter which you choose if you decide to replace it (we're nosy...lol).

You might also consider the poor man's piston button aka a piece of the same soda bottle you're going to use to sleeve the piston. Cut a piece the width of that raised back section of your piston and maybe an inch long, scuff the top side of the piston with 80 grit sand paper and superglue it in place. Just make sure you put a coat of moly paste on it before you re-install the piston. Makes cocking a lot quieter as you no longer have the piston rubbing on the inside of the chamber.

Hope some of this helps and keep us posted

[mentolio]

I've used a few synthetic greases in the past, and while they worked, they also migrated forward and found their way past the seal. This caused inconsistent velocity and increased extreme spread due to deiseling. Looking on the Walmart website, the  Super Tech Lube (red) is described as a lithium base bearing grease. Max "lubricating temperature" is listed as 300 degrees. I suspect this would be as poor a choice in an airgun as the stuff I used to use. I (like SteveP-52) have since switched to ARH moly and spring tar. I have been totally pleased with the results ever since. And while the tubs of lube look a little small-ish, it takes such a small amount of lube per gun, they'll likely last most folks forever. These airguns aren't engines or other "high-stress/speed/shear" machines, and so don't need to be soaked with lube at assembly. Less really is more.

[REACTOR - NIN]

Scott, I am too dismantling my H95,  to install some home made tophat and spring guide. I have found out that there are a few things that you can dismantle and assembly the rifle more easily.  Regarding the white ball for the safety bar,  use a little grease to stick the ball with the spring then secure it with a rubber band. Then  also that black plastic trigger block guide, you can use double sides tape to stick it with the wood stock to keep it in place. I agree with Mr. Mike Ell. from the youtube about the dismantling of the trigger block , he advice to fabricate a shorter pin to temporary replace the pin for the sear,  then you dismantle the trigger block out. Because this will help you to assemble it easier. Always practice safe measure whatever you do.

[REACTOR - NIN]

Securing the safety bar with the white ball with rubber band.

[REACTOR - NIN]

Use double sided tape for the plastic trigger block guide with the stock.

[mac]

Thanks Steve and Jeff.

I think that I will go with the ARH molly paste.I mean no disrespect to Mike Ellingsworth because I really appreciate his how to Hatsan videos,but I know for sure that the molly paste will work for a long time.

I like the button idea Steve and I,m going to try it.

I do have a couple more questions. The parts diagram shows a washer on the front(seal side) of the spring in the piston.Is there one? I think I can see one in there,but it wont come out so I,m not sure if that,s what I,m seeing.

The spring is slightly bent on the guide end.Is that a big deal? I have seen a few like that in some videos so I,m guessing it might not be.

I have a few pics.One is of the plastic detent ball compared to the 3/16" stell one from Ace hardware.They are pretty close and I think the stell one would work in a pinch.
 Another one is of some "moly" grease that I picked up when I bought the Supertech grease.I can tell now from watching more how to videos that it not like the moly paste and I think,as Jeff said,it would/could migrate into the compression chamber over time.Also a pic of the only nick in the seal.

[mac]

Thanks Dee!

You posted while I was typing my last one(I type slow with two fingers LOL)

[SteveP-52]

I can't say for fact there should be a washer inside the piston. My 95 was a gas ram at least until I tinkered with a hand pump and got the pressure a little too high. Instead of rebuilding, I bought a springer another member was selling that was already tuned and just stuck my .25 barrel on it.

If there's no washer, just get yourself a stainless steel one, polish it up nice, a light coat of moly and drop it in the piston so the spring spins better during recoil. I've done that to a couple of my Hatsan springers and it works pretty well. The other option would be to see if you can find someone to make you a Delrin tophat and spring guide for it.

The pic is a finished piston done when I rebuilt gendoc's Webley Valuemax and if you look on the left end, you can see the soda bottle button (I used a Mt. Dew bottle) I glued on there to give you an idea on size. Also, don't forget to polish the end of the cocking arm where it rides against the piston. 400 grit wet/dry works very nicely for polishing that and the inside of the barrel forks to make sure there's no rough spots, makes cocking smoother and another place I put a light coat of moly paste.

[REACTOR - NIN]

Steve, there is a washer in the piston. I see that too, is in there just like Scott stated. The centre of that washer is concave and I believe is for the tip (chrome rod)  of the gas ram contact to keep in place. I just realise that Hatsan uses the same piston for their spring and gas ram versions. IMHO.

[nced]

Well I hit the wrong key again and posted before I finished so I will try this again.

Like I started to say this will be my first tune/lube and it will be on my 95 springer.

I have it apart and have already lost the detent ball for the safety .Went to the hardware store and picked up a few different sizes and it looks like a 3/16 should work? Does it just sit on top of the spring or is there something else that I lost?

Probably a lot more questions to follow so thanks in advance.

While your "little white ball" isn't magnetic and a magnetic floor sweeper wouldn't help, I bought one of these cheapie magnetic sweepers from Harbor Freight to pick up "steel machinings" from the floor around my metal lathe and it's come in handy for retrieving small parts that fell under my lathe stand. LOL....it's even come in handy for finding the small HW95 safety spring that took a trip into inner space when the unrestrained safety button ejected while pulling the trigger group. Might be a good accessory if you continue home tuning.
https://www.harborfreight.com/17-in-mini-magnetic-sweeper-62704.html

[Back_Roads]

 Off topic kind of, but I use this Moly Lithium grease on my shoebox compressor's piston rods, works wonders there !
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=140141.0;attach=218320;image

[Privateer]

The washer in the piston may be stuck with whatever awful lube Hatsan uses.
I soak that with solvent for a few hours and it will then fall out.

@Scott,
 I'd replace that seal! The pressure and temps will burn it out in short order!
Do you have a picture of the face of that seal?

[cobalt327]

Not wanting to go off topic too far but a word on spring grease. I mailed a request for the MSDS for a grease sold for doing "lube tunes", it's called Tune in a Tube (TIAT). Here’s what I found:

Tune In A Tube is Almagard® Vari-Purpose Lubricant. It is a lithium complex formulation, red in color. It’s distributed by LEI (Lubrication Engineers, Inc.). This is the same company who supplies Crosman Pellgunoil. It's available in NLGI Grades 2, 1, and 0. TIAT is Grade 2. It costs about $20 shipped for 2 oz. when bought as TIAT.

Grade 2 Almagard® Vari-Purpose Lubricant is available in grease gun tubes, cost for Grade 2 from Speedway/eBay is about $18 delivered for a 14.5 ounce tube.

All that aside, there’s nothing about Almagard Vari-Purpose grease that I’m aware of that would make it better than any other high quality Grade 2 lithium complex grease.

[Privateer]

I find a nice fitted delrin spring guide, a fitted liner in the piston, and a fitted delrin top hat in the piston?
I don't need any lube on a spring.
Just a tad of the good molly and I'm golden.

The heavy tars and such dampened the spring buzz. With better ways to do that? Why even use heavy greases or tars?

[nced]

I find a nice fitted delrin spring guide, a fitted liner in the piston, and a fitted delrin top hat in the piston?
I don't need any lube on a spring.
Just a tad of the good molly and I'm golden.

The heavy tars and such dampened the spring buzz. With better ways to do that? Why even use heavy greases or tars?

I agree that as long as the spring guide if "appropriately snug" there is no need for "additional goops" on the spring that only serves to make the springer poi subject to temperature variations. Several years ago I nixed "normal airgun molly lubes" which are based on diesel prone "dinosaur grease" switching to non-dieseling Dupont Krytox GPL205 "space station grease".  Krytox GPL205 is used for all internal lubing of my HW95 and R9 along with snug fitting Delrin spring guides and am very satisfied!