My "New" Umarex

[Wildcatter]

Okay, here's a story bout a guy who plunked down his money on an Umarex Gauntlet in late June of 2017.  Amongst the many many many posts and responses about this gun and the delays ,etc., and so on, mine finally arrived at the end of November.  Tell me if this is silly.  I pulled all the contents out of the box, pulled the trigger back, shot it once to make sure it worked and filled the bottle to 2900 psi.  I then proceeded to bend the box and break everything inside so it would fit in my garbage can, loaded a magazine, went outside, shot and nothing.  Just the spring and hammer.  No air in the breech.  I then had a good friend tell me about a video of Joe Broncato (spelling?) and how the bottle needed to be twisted on harder and did the hole thing of removing the front end and twisting the bottle.  No matter how hard I twisted, I couldn't get that little hiss sound to let me know the air was coming out of the bottle.  I then thought that maybe the air pressure was too high and I too little of a man to twist it hard enough, so I thought I'd degas the gun and try again.

Now the fun part, guess what doesn't work on the gun.  The degassing tool will not get the gas out of the bottle which further leads me to believe it's a simple bottle issue.  I was going to try to get the air out of the gun in another way and see if the bottle works, but at this point, I'm just going to send it back and not mess with it.  I know it's probably something simple, but am truly a novice when it comes to taking these guns apart and fixing them...sadly, I don't have the time I want to tinker to take these apart and hard core learn the way I want to. 

I did have the brilliant though of using like an oil filter wrench and rubber; something to get a MUCH better grip and attempt to twist this bottle on harder, but I worry the risk of something snapping and sending a 2900 psi bullet launching....is that silly???

[NitroBobby]

no, not silly. i wouldn't put a strap or filter wrench on it.

if it's not working how it's designed to work, send it back.

maybe you could try calling customer service, if one exists.

it should not require the use of additional torque unless stated in the manual.

kgb

[pecor]

I would just {crack loose} one of the burst disc valves just a touch, If you can access the low side 1.8 use that one, Put some soapy water and look for bubbles if you have some Great! let it set to degas, If no bubbles open it a bit more, Until you just see a few and let it set until degassed. {Don't remove it under pressure Just loosen it a bit!!} Then tighten back up, worst part is you may have to reseal the burst disk with some sealer or silicone tape,  Burst disc don't last forever so you need to know how to service one anyhow.

[nervoustrigger]

You can indeed degas by just barely backing off the low side (1.8k) burst disk.  However I just want to point out that burst disks have parallel threads, not tapered threads like the gauge and Foster fitting.  So a burst disc does not seal via the threads, instead it seals against the flat bottom of the hole.  Do not apply PTFE tape because it won't do a thing except potentially contaminate the seat or something downstream if a bit breaks away.

[Dairyboy]

Yup I degas my WARP by cracking the burst disk slightly and just let it sit for awhile.