The Xisico Sentry Fan Club :)

[Hoosier Daddy]

Wayne, if your stock is cracked beyond repair... I have second one gifted to me by Zedddymon.
 I was going to spray it with bed liner for a "Black-Ops" version.
But if you need it let me know. 

[Wayne52]

Scott it's a very small crack and if it starts getting bigger I'll use some wood glue on it.  It's the best looking grain on any of the stocks that I have, it would be hard to give up

[Hoosier Daddy]

That is EXACTLY why I still have not touched this spare stock... It has a few scrapes in the varnish but the grain is amazing.
Worse shape than my original but almost too nice to paint bed liner black.

[Wayne52]

 I never even said anything to Mike about it when I talked with him on the phone because the crack is barely noticeable, the only reason that I seen it was I was looking the thing over closely when disassembling the gun for the first and probably last time for a while because everything came out so good the way it is after the mods I did on it.  It must be that Xisico gives the retailers an option of the type of finish they come with because I noticed that on the JSAR Hawk's its nothing like the finish on the Xisico's from FDAR

[Nvreloader]

Wayne
Where did you find the crack at, is it a possible design fault etc?.

Thanks,
Don


Well after 3+ hrs, I finally got the LCD off, split 3 2x4's,
so I Hose clamped each side and then it decided to come off,
If I were to do more of these I would mill/turn a steel fitting with a handle etc.

The OEM shroud is very small inside, I am thinking of adding a new 1" dia shroud
and venting a new LCD into it...........

Working on the 705-2 spec sheet for posting,
if I can get the photo's posted right, I'll be plump tickled PINK.......

Tia,
Don

[Hoosier Daddy]

It must be that Xisico gives the retailers an option of the type of finish they come with because I noticed that on the JSAR Hawk's its nothing like the finish on the Xisico's from FDAR

Because FlyingDragon has had such a longstanding great reputation selling Xisico's products that would not surprise me a bit.
I own two XS-12's.... One from Mike and one from ebay., His is head and shoulders above in appearance and function.
 UNFORTUNATLY... the "Good" one is my Grand-daughters.... and she can tell the difference. 

[Wayne52]

Don here's where the crack is.

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Wayne

I'll check mine......

Don

[Hoosier Daddy]

See why I hate to paint it?

[Wayne52]

That is a nice looking stock for sure! I really like the one on my 705-9K too, nice grain for sure.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Purdy!!!

[Dead Springer]

I was adjusting the trigger last night and a couple of things jumped out at me.  First, I can't cock the rifle when the action is out of the stock.  That makes it a pain to adjust the trigger.  Second, if I don't put the stock on EXACTLY right, the rifle won't cock.  It looked to be a matter of 1/8" gap at the rear and that's where it wants to naturally set in.  I have to be very mindful to push the stock forward while installing, otherwise it just sits in there wrong and won't cock.  The strange thing is that I can't find anything on the action or around the trigger that looks to de-activate cocking while out of the stock.  There must be some kind of magic going on in there or I'm just missing something.  I think it's magic.

[Ironman482]

Has anyone found a picitiny rail that will bolt to the two brass inserts on the handgaurd ,? I  like my flashlight on the left side at 9 0clock. Although I have other rifles setup like that this little carbine is just the ticket for backdoor varmint dispatching.

Yours didn't come with the Picatinny rails in the box to attach?

I didn't ser any ,guess I better go look thanksloked every where ,no pic rails, I 'll call mike and see if he'll send me 2.from the comments on here he sounds like a good guy.

[Nvreloader]

David
I just checked my 705-2, 25 cal, and with the action out of the wood stock, it will cock,
I had to made sure that the safety was engaged/operated correctly after removing the plastic tab.

My 705-2, 22 cal iis in parts on the bench right now, making a spec sheet with dimensions etc.
I made my trigger a manual operation..........

Did you make your trigger a manual operation instead of an automatic action?

Don

I was adjusting the trigger last night and a couple of things jumped out at me.  First, I can't cock the rifle when the action is out of the stock.  That makes it a pain to adjust the trigger.  Second, if I don't put the stock on EXACTLY right, the rifle won't cock.  It looked to be a matter of 1/8" gap at the rear and that's where it wants to naturally set in.  I have to be very mindful to push the stock forward while installing, otherwise it just sits in there wrong and won't cock.  The strange thing is that I can't find anything on the action or around the trigger that looks to de-activate cocking while out of the stock.  There must be some kind of magic going on in there or I'm just missing something.  I think it's magic.

[Dead Springer]

Mine came with a manual safety.  I'm sure I'm missing something, but I'll be danged I just can't cock it out of the stock or with the stock misaligned.

BTW per your earlier request to index burst disks: Serial #111901316, and it has a burst disk visible through the hole where previous models had the pressure gauge.

[Nvreloader]

David
The trigger housing on these AG is plastic, while adjusting mine out of the stock, lying on the bench,
and after I had the adjustments perfect, I had a problem with the side plate fitting back into the housing,
the pins in the plastic housing had spread apart and moved the sear out of alignment of the trigger nose,
causing problems etc.

When I got the side plate back on and screwed down, I had to readjust my tuning of the sear engagement,
to get the safety and sear working correctly.
I wish there was a view hole of the sear engagement area, but there is NOT enough room/space for one,
like some of the other model triggers have etc.

Does your trigger have 2 or 3 screw adjustment?
 
Check the operation of that sliding safety, and you may have adjusted the top screw in too far,
to get a lighter trigger pull, (don't ask how I know) LoL, which controls the safety tabs engagement,
which acts on the trigger movement + the engagement of the safety tabs in fire and safe mode etc.

Tia,
Don

[Wayne52]

I've noticed on a couple of different instructional video's about installing nut #43 by using gravity to keep the nut in place, I never have done it that way. The first thing that I do with the empty tube is install the valve, bleed block/gauge block(if required) and the fill port/gauge aseembly.  Then I take nut #43 hold it in the groove in the tube how it's supposed to go and screw on the front of the trigger group before the hammer and everything else.  The nut does not tighten down to the tube and it's free floating, after that assemble everything else . . . easy as can be.

[Nvreloader]

Ok Guys
Here is some of the info/spec's, I found from my 705-2, 22 cal Sentry air rifle, this is the long bbl model.

Bbl > 19-1/8" long, .550" diameter full length, 3-.090" holes spaced around the bbl, for air transfer,
possible twist of 1x18"? very hard to measure with such a short bbl, with 12 lands and grooves.

Shroud > 14-3/4" long, Outside dia = .790", Inside dia = .712".

LCD > 6-3/8" long, 1.185" OD, with 4 coned baffles with a M5x0.80 set screw for attachment to bbl.

Pressure tube > 26" in length, O/S dia = 1.185" and I/S dia = 1.015" = weight = 1 lb - 15.2 oz with a
threaded fill probe attachment that contains a PSI gage on the end, there is a threaded hole with a brass piece
that has 1 small "O" ring on each end and small spring for constant filling pressure.

Valve > 1.580" overall length, 1.010" diam, .100 valve stem protrusion from the rear end,
.105" slot across the face with a .240" air filling hole, cap has M-16x2.0 threads,
with a thick "O" for sealing between cap and valve body for securing valve in PSI tube.

Poppet > 2.020" overall length, including valve stem, poppet head = .610" long by .355" dia,
made from white hard plastic and beveled tapper seat,
valve stem is .114" dia, from bottom of poppet head to end of stem is 1.400",
Poppet spring is .610" long, .328" O/S dia, .268" I/S dia, 6 coils, .030" thick round wire,
with closed ends and snaps on the poppet head, there is a step down in the end of the valve stem of .105" dia for .150" long.

Alum valve body > with a .523" hole for poppet, ending at 1.033" deep, in a tapered beveled poppet seat,
TP hole is .310" dia, alum sleeve with a small "O" rings on each end, .125" hole
this mates with the TP hole in the action bottom for a .130" transfer hole.
4 screws secure the valve in the PSI tube, 2 longer ones go towards the front, and the 2 shorter ones go in the rear,
there is an "O" ring that seals the rear of the valve stem and is held in place by a black plastic cap and screw,
use Blue Lock-tite to secure this screw, as it will work loose, with only 3 threads holding the Black piece on,
plus there is a .235" dia and 1.040" long steel shaft that also secures the valve in.

Power adjustment knob > 1.010" dia with M 8x.125 threaded shaft .800" long, has approx 1/2" adjustment range,
for hammer spring, the plastic spring adjustment base is very sloppy/play.

Hammer > 1.040" long, 1.010" dia, weight of 746.2 grs, with a spring tunnel hole of .560" dia x .730" long,
Hammer spring is 2.460" long, .518" O/S dia, .434" I/S dia, 15 coils, .042" dia round wire.

Bolt > .458" dia, M6x10 threaded bolt handle, has 2 milled flats on rear of bolt that can hold the bolt in the open or close positions,
via a ball bearing/spring in the rear, underneath of the action.

Trigger > Plastic with no inspection hole, sliding type safety tha blocks the hammer nose/sear release operations.
It is a copy of the QB/160 trigger, but will NOT interchange, due to height measurements of the trigger body housing. IMHO, a metal trigger would be a better option.

Any thoughts or suggestions or questions.......

Tia,
Don

[Wayne52]

Thanks Don, great bunch of spec's on the 705-2.  I never bothered measuring the original on mine before I drilled it out, That TP is in the 705-9K now@5/32"

[Nvreloader]

Wayne

After seeing the HD nature of this AG, I would be willing to bet,
that a Magnum launcher could be made for any of the calibers up to 25 cal,
I could see a 20 cal, as the cat's meow.

As soon as I get it back together, I'll run some shot strings for comparison and get a base line
then I open up all the areas that need it etc.

Compared to other AG's,  this Sentry has the most massive and secure valve system,
I have ever seen etc, with 4 screws and a .230 dia steel rod securing the valve.

I am hoping that we get some 177 calibers on board, as I can see a another 177 coming home here.........
IMHO, The only negative is that plastic housing trigger guard.
I wonder if another brand of metal trigger could be found, I wish I had more experience with other air gun triggers etc.

Since you have a DAR, how does it compare?

Tia,
Don