The Xisico Sentry Fan Club :)

[Nvreloader]

Wayne
Are you talking about the # 24 or the 107 "O" rings? (Newest 705 parts diagram)

In my spare bag of "O" rings (OEM), the #24 "O" ring is Red colored.

HTH's
Don

[WesBob]

Don, when you change the orings on the 702, I'd be interested in the tube inside diameter, compared to the the 705.
As mentioned the Sentry low regulator is too narrow for the 705.

[Nvreloader]

Wes

Will do...............

Don

[WesBob]

Thanks very much! 😁

[Hoosier Daddy]

Still following....
It will be nice if those regs fit my 702-3

[Nvreloader]

Scott

Can you provide the measurement at the rear of the action, across the adjustment knob.
I am wondering what you have on your Sentry, I have .995"............ on my 705-2, 22 cal.

As soon as I find my feller gages,
I'll measure the gap between the inside of the tube and adjustment knob etc,
this will provide a very close SWAG as to the inside diameter of the tube etc.
until I get them apart....................

Which brand name of reg would be the best?

Don

[Wayne52]

With all the upgrades these Xisico Sentry's have gone through since they came out it wouldn't surprise me in the least if they started putting regulators in them in the near future.  The big advantage that the original HC's have in my opinion is they have the biggest air capacity not having anything in the tube between the fill port and valve.  That might be their plan for the new hole where it's located on the new ones for the degas/burst block because that would leave plenty of room for a large plenum by the looks of it.  Now that these are also available in Canada I wouldn't be a bit surprised if Bob Sterne gets his hands on one.  I'm thinking a person could actually build a .357 from one of the 705-2's with that large tube in them and not have to worry about making pressures over 3K. If anyone could do it, it would be Bob or Lloyd !!!

[Ironman482]

Without rrading all 21 pagrs ,is there a mod for fixing the loooong trigger pull ?

[Hoosier Daddy]

Scott

Can you provide the measurement at the rear of the action, across the adjustment knob.
I am wondering what you have on your Sentry, I have .995"............ on my 705-2, 22 cal.

...

Don

I did that tonight with interesting results.
At the breech end of the the lower tube, just ahead of the adjustment knob I measured 1.186" (30.13mm) OD
I then measured the OD at the muzzle end of the lower tube behind the fill port. 1.183" (30.05mm)

My 702-3 seems to either have a larger tube or a thicker cross section.

[WesBob]

I'll have to measure outside diameter on these here too. Interesting.
The regulators I bought are from Lane. They have a front facing seal and butt up against the gauge block. You have to remove the front oring on the gauge block and I cut a piece of tube 32mm long as a spacer to put behind the gauge block so the tube pressure will push against the valve instead of pushing on the burst disk bolt.
I've also ordered a bunch from Huma. It'll be interesting to see the difference. Huma are a lot more money.
I fixed the issue of the reg being too small by putting an oring that was a bit fatter on the reg and that fixed it up.
I drilled out the valve port, the transfer port, breech port and barrel port all to 9/64. Any bigger on the valve port and it looks like it will make the poppet leak so I stopped there.
That increased the power a lot which is needed in 25 cal as it can barely get over 800fps at 3000psi when it's stock.

[WesBob]

Without rrading all 21 pagrs ,is there a mod for fixing the loooong trigger pull ?

To cure the trigger take stock off (remove small plastic safety piece before trying to remove stock) then you'll see an Allen key bolt at the rear of the trigger. Turn that out some and it'll make the first stage lighter and a bit shorter, then you'll also see a very small flat head screw towards the top close to tube at the back. Turn that in and you'll shorten the creep right up to nothing.
The only problem is once you get it light and crisp, you'll have no safety. If you care about that then take the two Phillips screws out of the side of the trigger block and carefully pull that plastic cover off, taking care not to pull the pins out with the cover. If the pins start coming with it, STOP, then push the pins out of the plastic cover to make sure they remain installed on the other side. Otherwise you'll have things flying everywhere and have a great time trying to sort it all out again 😁.
Once you have the cover off take the little safety bar out and you'll have to grind the one arm that sticks out down in order to allow the safety to slide forward when cocked. File it down a bit at a time so you don't overdo it and make the safety inoperable.
Better to check it too many times than make it useless!
Once that's done you should have a nice trigger 🙂👍

[Wayne52]

Wes on my 705-9K I did all the ports to 5/32" and it's sealing the poppet fine but that's as far as I dare go with it.  I did ask Mike on the phone if the valves were different on the old and new and to be honest he never did
comment about that, instead he said he's opened them up big by drilling at an angle to avoid getting into the sealing surface.  My prototype I drilled straight through at 3/16" and the poppet on that is sealing really good.  I'm pretty convinced that the valve is in fact different than they are now   On that one I made my own transfer port from delrin because after I had drilled the original to 5/32" I could plainly see that going bigger would take the shoulders off the TP.   That 5/32" transfer port now resides inside of my 705-9K .22.  I still have the original transfer port for a spare.

[Wayne52]

This has me curious now exactly what the valve inside of my latest gun which is the 702-5K, well I guess I'll just have to tear that one down now too but the curiosity is killing me

[Hoosier Daddy]

[Ironman482]

Without rrading all 21 pagrs ,is there a mod for fixing the loooong trigger pull ?

To cure the trigger take stock off (remove small plastic safety piece before trying to remove stock) then you'll see an Allen key bolt at the rear of the trigger. Turn that out some and it'll make the first stage lighter and a bit shorter, then you'll also see a very small flat head screw towards the top close to tube at the back. Turn that in and you'll shorten the creep right up to nothing.
The only problem is once you get it light and crisp, you'll have no safety. If you care about that then take the two Phillips screws out of the side of the trigger block and carefully pull that plastic cover off, taking care not to pull the pins out with the cover. If the pins start coming with it, STOP, then push the pins out of the plastic cover to make sure they remain installed on the other side. Otherwise you'll have things flying everywhere and have a great time trying to sort it all out again 😁.
Once you have the cover off take the little safety bar out and you'll have to grind the one arm that sticks out down in order to allow the safety to slide forward when cocked. File it down a bit at a time so you don't overdo it and make the safety inoperable.
Better to check it too many times than make it useless!
Once that's done you should have a nice trigger 🙂👍

thanks ,I'll give that a try,other than being a bit load that was the only thing that was a problem for me.

[Hoosier Daddy]

Without rrading all 21 pagrs ,is there a mod for fixing the loooong trigger pull ?

To cure the trigger take stock off (remove small plastic safety piece before trying to remove stock) then you'll see an Allen key bolt at the rear of the trigger. Turn that out some and it'll make the first stage lighter and a bit shorter, then you'll also see a very small flat head screw towards the top close to tube at the back. Turn that in and you'll shorten the creep right up to nothing.
The only problem is once you get it light and crisp, you'll have no safety. If you care about that then take the two Phillips screws out of the side of the trigger block and carefully pull that plastic cover off, taking care not to pull the pins out with the cover. If the pins start coming with it, STOP, then push the pins out of the plastic cover to make sure they remain installed on the other side. Otherwise you'll have things flying everywhere and have a great time trying to sort it all out again 😁.
Once you have the cover off take the little safety bar out and you'll have to grind the one arm that sticks out down in order to allow the safety to slide forward when cocked. File it down a bit at a time so you don't overdo it and make the safety inoperable.
Better to check it too many times than make it useless!
Once that's done you should have a nice trigger 🙂👍

GREAT INSIGHT!
Thanks Wes

[Wayne52]

I have gotten use to the long pull myself, it's still a very smooth long pull though, just right for quick hunting shots when time is of the essence.

[Nvreloader]

Guys

I just got the fill valve unscrewed from the pressure tube, on my leaking 705,
it was on there very tight, as soon as the rest of my parts gets here, maybe by Friday??   
I'll be posting all the spec's on my Sentry 705-2, 22 caliber etc.

If you want some certain info on THIS model, please make a list and post what you want,
and I'll do my best to answer your questions etc.

Tia,
Don

[Zeddymon]

Without rrading all 21 pagrs ,is there a mod for fixing the loooong trigger pull ?

To cure the trigger take stock off (remove small plastic safety piece before trying to remove stock) then you'll see an Allen key bolt at the rear of the trigger. Turn that out some and it'll make the first stage lighter and a bit shorter, then you'll also see a very small flat head screw towards the top close to tube at the back. Turn that in and you'll shorten the creep right up to nothing.
The only problem is once you get it light and crisp, you'll have no safety. If you care about that then take the two Phillips screws out of the side of the trigger block and carefully pull that plastic cover off, taking care not to pull the pins out with the cover. If the pins start coming with it, STOP, then push the pins out of the plastic cover to make sure they remain installed on the other side. Otherwise you'll have things flying everywhere and have a great time trying to sort it all out again 😁.
Once you have the cover off take the little safety bar out and you'll have to grind the one arm that sticks out down in order to allow the safety to slide forward when cocked. File it down a bit at a time so you don't overdo it and make the safety inoperable.
Better to check it too many times than make it useless!
Once that's done you should have a nice trigger 🙂👍

thanks ,I'll give that a try,other than being a bit load that was the only thing that was a problem for me.

trigger innards

[Wayne52]

Zed my 702-5K came with no auto safety, that makes me happy and I don't have to worry about it, I just got done tearing it completely apart and the valve is the beefy valve like the one that came with my prototype, I went ahead and drilled the TP, breech and valve all out to 5/32" (I can open this valve up to 3/16" if I choose).  I'm kinda wondering if the valve poppet/stem and valve might be a little different with the side levers because drilling the valve in the 705-9K actually drilled into the taper that's machined on the inside of the valve for the poppet sealing surface but not to the point where the poppet gets near the hole.  This little gun is going to be able to shoot anything that my .22 sidelever does now but I'm going to slap a scope on it after reassembling and take her out for some fun after the rain and doing some chrony work to see what shes doing.  It's a nice light gun too compared to the heavier HC model.