Crosman 2200 Magnum Hot Rod

[K.O.]

My favorite build of yours...well call me a bit prejudiced.. ;)but it is the Fat tubed 1322...18.25 fpe off 12 pumps... Not to mention I really like the looks...

That is what a modern pumper should be...

my poor relation just using crosman parts.. .... do not get me wrong I still like it... but it is not near as nice and I bet a good bit less sturdy than your Build... did switch it to a .177 for a short while 930 fps with 7.9g is not to bad for still having a pump cup and stuffed plastic piston...more pumps than a flat top would need of course

But yep your builds have a style of their own and love your Brass work...

I stole the below pic of your build before the photo bucket dried up... just really nice rifle

[Tack Driver 10]

My favorite build of yours...well call me a bit prejudiced.. ;)but it is the Fat tubed 1322...18.25 fpe off 12 pumps... Not to mention I really like the looks...

That is what a modern pumper should be...

my poor relation just using crosman parts.. .... do not get me wrong I still like it... but it is not near as nice and I bet a good bit less sturdy than your Build... did switch it to a .177 for a short while 930 fps with 7.9g is not to bad for still having a pump cup and stuffed plastic piston...more pumps than a flat top would need of course

But yep your builds have a style of their own and love your Brass work...

I stole the below pic of your build before the photo bucket dried up... just really nice rifle

That gun was "The Chubby", named for the fat MK tube used.
I put an 18" Air Force (LW) barrel and suppressor on it since that picture.
It's one of my best guns along with the Magnum Force (MF) 140.
The problem with the 13xx chassis is wood stock choices are very limited.

Chubby numbers with last mod:
10 pumps=743 FPS, 17.52 FPE
12 pumps=785 FPS, 19.56 FPE
15 pumps=838 FPS, 22.30 FPE
20 pumps=915 FPS, 26.58 FPE

The MF-140 has a hammer valve, MRod trigger, FT piston/valve, 13xx steel breech, brass BB, etc.

Chrony results MF-140:
05 pumps= 616 FPS 12.05 FPE
07 pumps= 692 FPS 15.20 FPE
10 pumps= 811 FPS 20.88 FPE
12 pumps= 840 FPS 22.40 FPE

 

[Tack Driver 10]

Put the 2260 barrel on the gun and ran some accuracy tests.
Sighted it in at 15 yards.
Accuracy on a scale of 1-10 is a 6 in my opinion.
Typical Crosman barrel, 4 shots under a dime and then some wanderers.
Better than some but not a great barrel.

Pumped the gun two times and shot a 5.52 H&N Barracuda Match pellet into a towel.
Minimal rifling shows on the pellet skirt with almost none on the head.
By comparison the LW barreled pellets have heavy rifling on the head and skirt.

Measured the LW barrel at the choked end.
It measured .213".
The 2260 barrel measured .218".

The pellet heads measured .216".

I'm convinced the 2260 barrels that shoot well are tighter than this one.
Perhaps they were higher quality 20 years before made in China became popular.

I have two 22 cal LW barrel blanks and might put one on this gun.

[Tack Driver 10]

I noticed that the fit between the pump tube and receiver has about .010" of slop.
Figured this can't be good for accuracy since the scope is mounted on the receiver.
The 766 receivers are much tighter but the 2100/2200/760 etc guns are loose as a goose.

Bedded the receiver with JB-Weld and stippled the pump tube with high strength RTV.
That'll take the play out and provide a little crush factor.

[Tack Driver 10]

The Crosman 2260 barrel didn't group as well as I liked so prepped an LW barrel blank.
Not sure if I'll leave it in this gun long term so it's temped in.
Shot some pellets yesterday and it grouped under a dime at 20 yards with Barracuda Match ammo.
I'd like it to do that at 30+ yards.

Also did some trigger work.
Took .030" off the sear and added a .036" brass shim.
I have an adjustable solution in the works.

I really don't like the plastic bolt so made one from brass.

[sfcnewy]

Nice work!!

[Tack Driver 10]

Nice work!!

Thanks, I really like the way brass and wood transforms the look and feel of these guns.

Made the brass barrel band.
Still needs 3 set screws and fitting to the tube.
It's a little on the "blingy" side but it'll match the cocking bolt nicely.

[Tack Driver 10]

Fit the barrel band to the tube.

Used a 6mm black oxide bolt for the main pivot
and two 5mm bolts to anchor the tangs.

The bolts and nut have a radius cut  where they meet the tube
so they wedge into the mounting hole when tightened.

The main pivot bolt is threaded into the LH tang so when pumped won't spin.
The locking nut on the outside caps it off.

[2K1TJ]

Beautiful work, as usual!

[Tack Driver 10]

The donor stock for this gun is from a Storm XT.
Not sure what type of wood it is.

[Tack Driver 10]

Put the 2200 together this morning.

I used a dab of high strength 3145 RTV between the breech and the pump tube.
Compressed them lightly in a small machinist vise and lashed them together.
Let them set overnight.
Another RTV dab in the receiver cups that hold the breech should prevent movement.
Cut the end of the shroud off so made a muzzle break to secure the barrel.

A wood pump arm and a can will finish this gun.

[Matt15]

Nice gun!! 

[Longbow]

WOW  your mods are top notch!..all the guns look amazing...thanks for posting..

[2K1TJ]

This may be my favorite of all your builds so far! Can't wait to see it finished off with the wood pump arm.

[Tack Driver 10]

Took my 2100 down for some minor mods.
One of which was a bolt upgrade.

Bedded the receiver with JB Weld while I had it open.

[Matt15]

Thanks for the pics on how you bed it with JB weld. I have noticed some slop on my 2100 so I will do the same with mine.

[Tack Driver 10]

Thanks for the pics on how you bed it with JB weld. I have noticed some slop on my 2100 so I will do the same with mine.

Just in case it isn't obvious, I placed a partition down by the detent.
I used a small piece of cardboard wrapped with teflon tape and secured with hot melt glue.
It prevents the epoxy from filling the area where the detent goes.
It pops off after everything sets.
A light coat of grease on the tube will prevent the epoxy from adhering.

[Matt15]

Thanks for the pics on how you bed it with JB weld. I have noticed some slop on my 2100 so I will do the same with mine.

Just in case it isn't obvious, I placed a partition down by the detent.
I used a small piece of cardboard covered with teflon tape and wedged in.
It prevents the epoxy from filling the area where the detent goes.
It pops off after everything sets.

Okay. Thanks!!

I just thought of something else. What about using JB weld putty. https://www.jbweld.com/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick
It would dry quicker and be less messy. It is about $3-$4 at Walmart.

[Tack Driver 10]

Thanks for the pics on how you bed it with JB weld. I have noticed some slop on my 2100 so I will do the same with mine.

Just in case it isn't obvious, I placed a partition down by the detent.
I used a small piece of cardboard covered with teflon tape and wedged in.
It prevents the epoxy from filling the area where the detent goes.
It pops off after everything sets.

Okay. Thanks!!

I just thought of something else. What about using JB weld putty. https://www.jbweld.com/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick
It would dry quicker and be less messy. It is about $3-$4 at Walmart.

I tried similar products like that and found them unacceptable.
They're not as strong and didn't form or adhere well.
Tensile strength of 900 psi vs 3950 for the original JB.
Original JB will set up in 4-6 hours at 70 degrees to a putty like consistency which makes it easy to work.

Use a glue syringe to dispense the epoxy to minimize any mess.
I like these curved tip dental syringes available on EBay for about $1 each.
The trick is not to put too much.

[Matt15]

Thanks for the pics on how you bed it with JB weld. I have noticed some slop on my 2100 so I will do the same with mine.

Just in case it isn't obvious, I placed a partition down by the detent.
I used a small piece of cardboard covered with teflon tape and wedged in.
It prevents the epoxy from filling the area where the detent goes.
It pops off after everything sets.

Okay. Thanks!!

I just thought of something else. What about using JB weld putty. https://www.jbweld.com/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick
It would dry quicker and be less messy. It is about $3-$4 at Walmart.

I tried similar products like that and found they were not good. They're not as strong and didn't form or adhere well.
Tensile strength of 900 psi vs 3950 for the original JB.
Original JB will set up in 4-6 hours at 70 degrees to a putty like consistency which makes it easy to work.

Okay. That is why I asked.

Just another quick question. Could a crosman 2100/2200 be modded to use a 7/8" OD Disco tube?