Trigger adjustment on nitro piston Benj Prowler does nothing

[RAJOD]

I picked up a Benjamin Prowler just to have another break barrel.

The trigger on it is terrible so I thought I would try adjusting the 1 screw they have for adjusting.

Turned it all the way in - myself a few others thought, hmm no difference

Turned it all the out - no difference.

Is this thing fake?   Seems to do nothing.   

[SteveP-52]

If it's the small one behind the trigger, take it out and measure it, it's likely something like an M3x5 and too short. Hatsan Edges and Strikers use the same basic style trigger and swapping that screw for an M3x8 usually does the trick and something most hardware stores carry. I got mine with allen heads to make adjusting easier.
Screw it all the way in, then turn it back out a full turn and a quarter, then cock it, load it, point it in a safe direction and smack the rifle butt on the ground 6 or 7 times. You may have to adjust and do the bump test a few times until you get it the way you want it.
I think the GRT III also fits in there, but don't quote me on that, and something you might consider.

[Roadworthy]

I believe your adjustment screw is too short to have nay real effect.  Try to get a longer one.

The trigger itself is HORRIBLE on those things.  Figure on doing some work to the trigger or just purchase a GRT III from charliedatuna.com.  It is highly adjustable and reduces the difficulty of pull to a very manageable level.

That is about the best thing you can do short of replacing the whole trigger pack with the Pack from an NP2 gun and beginning trigger modifications from there.

There is nothing kind I can say about an NP trigger.  They are a known problem area.

[Privateer]

Only thing kind I could say is
they are the kind you take out and smash with a hammer!

[RAJOD]

If it's the small one behind the trigger, take it out and measure it, it's likely something like an M3x5 and too short. Hatsan Edges and Strikers use the same basic style trigger and swapping that screw for an M3x8 usually does the trick and something most hardware stores carry. I got mine with allen heads to make adjusting easier.
Screw it all the way in, then turn it back out a full turn and a quarter, then cock it, load it, point it in a safe direction and smack the rifle butt on the ground 6 or 7 times. You may have to adjust and do the bump test a few times until you get it the way you want it.
I think the GRT III also fits in there, but don't quote me on that, and something you might consider.

Thanks!   
Ok so i get a M3x8 hex head screw and swap it out and then screw it in further.  What effect will this have on the trigger?  Does it make much of a difference or is this thing a lost cause.
Why would they put a non functioning adjustment screw in?   Is it just to make the user feel he has this feature, something to put on the box as a check mark item?

is this what you suggest?

[RAJOD]

Only thing kind I could say is
they are the kind you take out and smash with a hammer!

LOL, I will keep that in mind.

[SteveP-52]

Should look something like this. Making it a bit longer will give you a better 2nd stage pull, just remember the bump test...too far in and you'll have either a hair trigger or no trigger.
The shorter one is what's likely in the rifle, the longer one is like .25 cents in most hardware stores, just take the one you take out with you to match them.

[mobilehomer]

Bob, why? LAWYERS!!!

[Jadocs]

I did the 8mm bearing fix and removed that screw all together. Trigger is really good now 

[RAJOD]

Bob, why? LAWYERS!!!

LOL, my brother is an Attorney, I'll send him to get the screw so I'm covered

[RAJOD]

I did the 8mm bearing fix and removed that screw all together. Trigger is really good now

So you toss the screw and put some kind of bearing in?   

Would need to know more about that fix, thanks!

[Jadocs]

I did the 8mm bearing fix and removed that screw all together. Trigger is really good now

So you toss the screw and put some kind of bearing in?   

Would need to know more about that fix, thanks!

Here you go:

[RAJOD]

I did the 8mm bearing fix and removed that screw all together. Trigger is really good now

So you toss the screw and put some kind of bearing in?   

Would need to know more about that fix, thanks!

Here you go:

Thanks for the video.  I don't quite understand what this bearing does to make the trigger better.  What is it doing?   

I am going to try the  5x8x2.5mm RC bearing + a longer screw.   It can't make the trigger any worse. 

[longhunter]

Be VERY CAREFUL if you decide  to try the bearing mod. Because of the errant quality control, it will work fine on some triggers, and be dangerous on others.
I had a nitro venom that I did the bearing mod to. It made quite an improvement in the trigger. Not a GRTIII mind you, but definitely much better. I just tuned another nitro venom, for a customer, that wanted the bearing mod done to his trigger. I couldn't do it. The trigger pull was so short, that the gun would fire on closing. So, like I said, BE CAREFUL!!!

[Jadocs]

Yep, different bearing sizes will make a difference. Always start of with the smaller size first and remove the set screw, or back it out all the way.

[RAJOD]

Be VERY CAREFUL if you decide  to try the bearing mod. Because of the errant quality control, it will work fine on some triggers, and be dangerous on others.
I had a nitro venom that I did the bearing mod to. It made quite an improvement in the trigger. Not a GRTIII mind you, but definitely much better. I just tuned another nitro venom, for a customer, that wanted the bearing mod done to his trigger. I couldn't do it. The trigger pull was so short, that the gun would fire on closing. So, like I said, BE CAREFUL!!!

Oh wow, that is scary.  No I don't want some crazy hair trigger.   I saw a guy with the prowler used the smaller Traxxas 5114 5x8x2.5mm Replacement Precision Ball Bearings MR85-2RS

I'm going to try that size first.    Some said it was not enough so they used the longer screw in combination.

They call that trigger a two stage but to me its a fake two stage.   The first stage does nothing, nothing in the sear moves at all, its just moving a trigger against a spring for feel.  The second stage (really the only stage that does anything) is a bit long which is probably very safe.   

I will try to err on the safe side.   

Is there a way to weaken that trigger spring?  I don't want to remove it as it will be floppy then. 
Or is it best to replace the entire spring with a weaker one?

[RAJOD]

Longer screw VS The bearing mod?

Do they essentially do the same thing? 

In my mind I am picturing a sear that is (ie inset to hold main piston 1/4") using the screw or bearing might make that sear only 1/16th of a inch holding the piston from firing.

The screw is adjustable while the bearing is not.   Why use the bearing method?

Also does this mod cause premature wear to the sear?  Less of it is holding the piston back so more pressure per area with less of it holding the piston.   I'm just don't want to fix one thing and break another.

[mobilehomer]

A CDT trigger is the BEST way to go!! I have one and it is great.  Being that it is adjustable, it is much more safe than the bearing, and customizable to your liking. One of the installation instructions is to remove the trigger return spring. It is commonly called the "lawyer spring". Totally unnecessary. That alone will lighten it quite a bit.
Look at the instructions here.

https://charliedatuna.com/GRT-III%20Trigger%20New.htm

[RAJOD]

A CDT trigger is the BEST way to go!! I have one and it is great.  Being that it is adjustable, it is much more safe than the bearing, and customizable to your liking. One of the installation instructions is to remove the trigger return spring. It is commonly called the "lawyer spring". Totally unnecessary. That alone will lighten it quite a bit.
Look at the instructions here.

https://charliedatuna.com/GRT-III%20Trigger%20New.htm

Thanks for the link.  I don't understand how it is safer though.   
I read someone took out the trigger return spring and did not like it because the trigger then did not return and had a ton of slop in it.  So I would rather not remove it may be just weaken it.

[longhunter]

Yep, different bearing sizes will make a difference. Always start of with the smaller size first and remove the set screw, or back it out all the way.

This one wouldn't even take the 5x8 mm bearing.