I haven't lined up a welding shop as of yet so this is more of a theoretial question.If I buy/rent my own nitrogen 6K psi tanks then I'm only using maybe half the gas (down to about 180-220 bar) and paying full fill price for refill. On the other hand, a welder can use nitrogen down to under 100 psi for his purposes. As a shielding gas the pressure at the mig/tig torch end is only a few psi I believe. So, why wouldn't a welding shop be willing to sell me the high pressure part of full tanks? He could then use the balance and pocket some profit on the part I buy. In the end he will be ordering maybe 1 more cylinder fill a year which I will have paid him for + some profit. So, is my thinking reasonable? I'm of course talking about a shop that DOES welding, not one that supplies welders.
As far as I know, Nitrogen isn't used much in welding shops. Helium and Argon are used most, and CO2 is also used (Since I'm not a commercial welder, I may be missing some use for Nitrogen). In any case, due to weight and cost, I think that most shops wouldn't be using 6K psi tanks. The common gas tanks run more like 2200psi. Since the 6000 psi tanks weigh close to 200 lbs empty, it isn't really feasible to move them around much.
HP N2 is also used in the oil field. I purchased an Altaros booster and a bottle to bottle kit for just this reason. The booster runs from air and with an input of N2 to the second stage at less than 100 bar you can drain those N2 bottles dry! I have 2 of the 6K bottles cascaded and both are at 2800 psi. I have a regulator on it to allow input to the booster at the proper level. I fill from booster to a SCBA bottle till I reach 4500 psi.The same booster setup can be used for Helium too or changed back to original configuration to compress air!
Thurmond,Thank you! Wow - this is more complicated than I expected. Thurmond, does your setup still use your shop compressor for the drive air? Can someone explain why are the tubing changes are needed?Roger BarkerMiddlefield, OH
Just what I am doing with my booster and shop air, separate the drive air from the N2 intensification.Note that instead of the very expensive and hard to get filled 6K bottles that, at least in my area have to be special ordered at the welding shops and sent off to be filled (taking a month to get back sometimes! Then there was the problem that I bought a bottle used and afte 2 years had to get it hydroed and it took 2 months to get back and IT WAS NOT MY OWNER BOTTLE and Ithe welding supply shop wanted to charge me for 'leasing their bottle' - I never did git my 'owner' bottle back, it was lost) I use the common 300 CuFt bottles which have 2250 PSI. Most welding supply commonly stock the 250 CuFt tanks which is the same size as the O2 tank on most Oxyacetylene rigs but if you call around some stock the 300's.I just swapped out my 300 tank with CGA580 valve N2 cylinder Friday and at Airgas locally paid $66.91 for 304 SCF ( plus state tax 4.73 +county tax 0.39 + city tax 1.14 ) so 'free' air is cheaper but I like N2 because it is DRY and in the long run I have spent more time and funds dealing with corroded tank interiors causing failed hydros and damaged gun internals so to me the price equals out and N2 is cheaper of my time and frustration.If you compress your own air you MUST extract the moisture or you will eventually have problems. Not fun to disassemble your PCP and find it full of red rust and aluminum white powder! Or to have the Hydro shop call you and tell you your +$700.00 88 CuFt 4500psi Carbon Fiber tank failed it's five year hydro due to internal corrosion from moisture (now multiply that by 2x 66 CuFt and one 68 CuIn tanks that failed TOO! ) Either dry your air or use commercially sold dried gas. Scuba air is usually dried but paintball varies and I bought fills from shops that were not drying their air. Heads up: And most driers sold to airgunners don't do very many cubic feet before they are saturated then the moist air goes on thru.Note: I built my own drier system that refrigerates the shop compressed air to condense the moisture out of it then run it through a desiccant THEN to the booster when I want HPA that's real air.