Condor SS setting it up and interpreting chrony data

[Ooops]

Hi Big Block, thanks for the feed back

tweaking these rifles is a real blast, but can also put a hurting on pellets and air.

Yes it is, and it can also result in a lot of bruises from banging one's head on the table 
I'm fortunate with air as I used to dive and have a couple of compressors but the number of pellets I've gone through is shocking.
Its entirely possible that by the time I've finished experimenting I'll have worn the gun out!

My personal rifle, is as follows.... larger restrictor

That's the 1025fps one?

.... O ring underneath top hat

what thickness of o ring are you using? Is it just the o ring or are you using shims as well?

Main spring clipped one coil, bent and polished end

This really interests me, have you got any "how to" photos? I've been struggling to hold my self in check until I've finished testing the basic combinations before doing this.
Cutting a coil makes the spring shorter, does it still take up the same space or will a spacer be needed.
How did you finish the end to get a nice flat face? [/quote]

TT 95 gram heavy hammer with slap mod (also power builder)

Given the spring / power wheel situation I was going to take mine out and then the o ring came off it so the decision was made for me.
So its now back to factory

put an o ring under the top hat, clip one coil off the spring, slightly bend and polish the end and face it towards the power wheel, and use the factory hammer.  put the "large" restrictor in the top hat, and set your PW at 0/0 i bet you'll be in the 600's velocity, slowly adjust your PW up to what your happy with, and using a fill of about 2200 or 2400, and you will dial it in.

Thanks for the over view. I'm happy to say that I'm on track for most of it already

.... PW at 0/0 i bet you'll be in the 600's velocity

That's a lower fps than I've managed but I haven't touched the spring.
On its own how many fps does the spring mod alter output by at pw1/1 (no 0 on my wheel?)
At home they don't have the power wheel feature and still get good results

using a fill of about 2200 or 2400

I'm happy to say that I've been working at the same pressure

My rifle puts 30 shots with about 6 fps spread, at 875 fps or so, with 18.13 grain JSB's.  30.xx foot lbs of energy.

Would you consider this exceptional or average?
I'm a tad confused, is the SD 6fps or it the spread thats 6 fps? At the moment I've got more chance of hitch hiking to mars than getting a spread of 6fps

I've managed 34 shots, 18.13gr @ SD 9 but the spread was 32fps @ 890fps average.
In fact I've got 40 shots (& more) at what I think are decent strings at various gr and fps on many occasions but I'm suffering from occasional random, rogue shots that screw the results out of proportion. I'll illustrate that shortly

Keep velocity under 900 fps for best accuracy and to reduce leading of the barrel.

Thank you, that's what I've been working toward but this rogue shot thing is killing me

Thanks for the feed back, its really appreciated

[Ooops]

Hi all,

thank you so much for the collective feed back, it really helps and is very encouraging.
Particularly useful are the specific examples as they give me a baseline to compare to

The particular problems that I have right now are as follow;

Sanding shims
I can’t travel at the moment because I’ve lost my fingerprints along with a fair amount of finger nail, it might look suspicious! Nor can I accurately achieve a shim of a uniform given thickness. They come out uneven making the dimensions approximations of what I’m trying for. So my question is “How do you accurately, (and painlessly) sand shims? What am I missing here? If you can solve this for me I’ll be eternally grateful. My current method is wet and dry on a flat surface.

How jus Tom managed to sand a rubber o ring is totally beyond me and I think the forum ought to give him a special achievement award! My hats’s off to you sir.

Rogue shots
I’m being plagued by rogue shots.

One of the ideas that I had was to shoot a selection of pellets from 180bar/2600 all the way down and while doing so record the fps changes and the pressures that they occurred at. I hoped I would be able to extract from this the number of shots and fpe that pellets would produce at given bands of pressure e.g 18.13gr shooting from 150bar/2200 down to 120bar/1700 yields 40 shots etc., etc. It worked but the results were seriously skewed by random, rogue shots .

I shot 130 x 15.89gr had an average fps of 800 and a spread of 153fps
I shot 150 x 18.13gr had an average fps of 770 and a spread of 176fps
a range of shots varying by 10fps in the low/mid 700 then consecutive shots 723 655 703 then normal for twenty shots followed by 748 803 771 and so on

I’ll be in a string that’s looking really good and then I’ll get a shot that is anywhere between 30 and 100fps a drift from those that both proceeded  and followed it. This may happen two or three times over the course of thirty to fifty shots. It can happen in as few as ten shots!

Dyotat suggested moving from shims to an O ring, due to the diving thing that I mentioned I have large assortment to choose from and it helped but took away a lot of the adjustability afforded by the shims partly due to the extremely limited availability of o rings with a thickness less than 1.7mm/0.067”. In the end I arrived at a tiny o ring of 1.0mm/.039” and a shim appropriate for the scenario in play. Its been a wonderful improvement but it hasn’t completely solved the problem and now I’m looking at 20 to 50fps random shifts.

I preferred shims because of the repeatability and precise dimension and because until recently I’d never heard of any one sanding rubber! Locally the only material I could find were fibre washers, more recently I got nylon from the UK. To date I have not had the chance to use the nylon washers.

My totally unscientific and uneducated wag is that the tophat or valve components are bouncing. The fibre washes are rigid and in no way mitigate this where as the o ring by its nature improves upon the situation. Further more, as onebaddj has had such tremendous results with nylon I can only conclude that nylon will also help with this. However I’m open to any thoughts and suggestions that you may have.

As for not having used my nylon washers, I refer you back to question 1, the painless art of accurately “sanding shims”

How to treat the rogue shot disparities?
If it wasn’t for the rogue shot issue I believe I’d have all the options mapped out for varying power levels and be well on my way to working on my groups.  So the question is how best to move forward?

Taking the skewed info out I have some very promising results. Do I delete the rogue shots from my strings and use cleaned up results as a base line? In doing so I have to accept that until cured I’ll have to put up with the odd frustrating shot or is there another option?

Basic parameters
Other than the above it would be really useful if I could establish what the basic parameters are for a good .22 Condor SS. I had in mind; psi/shot, spread over x number of shots and SD. If its possible I’d like to collate the information for 500, 600, 700, 800 & 900fps. The lower figure will be useful for getting ready to return to the UK where 12fpe is the legal limit.

Thanks for your help so far, its much appreciated.

[dyotat100]

Is your tophat adjusted so there is no gap when the bolt is closed? If not when you close the bolt and the breech is not against the tophat the hammer hits the breech, then has to travel and hit the tophat.

Make sure when you close the breech that you pull the breech against the tophat as you close it. I make all my guns so there is no gap.

[jus Tom]

I chose to keep the factory tophat, it has NOT been loosened by the set screws holding it on as I read posts about the screws stripping out. It is set at factory spec.
When I add o-ring or shim I take a retractable razor knife and cut through the o-ring, it slips over the rear of the tophat and fits tightly behind. It can be removed easily with a dental pic for experimentation of others.
On the sanding of shims,,, first you need a washer with a 1/4" i d hole, I used 5/8" diameter washers drilled out with a sharp 1/4" bit. Then I use sticky backed sanding discs 180 grit then 320 to finish stuck to anything flat and non-porous,, and YES you WILL lose a bit of fingernail or fingerprint depending on how aggressive you work the washer on the sandpaper and how thin you care to make the shim. I've altered flat nylon washers .060"and rubber .062", I prefer the rubber as it's quieter, the nylon slaps pretty good at the shot.
For inserting the shim onto the tophat,, again using the razor knife, cut a 1/4" slot from one side, the shim slips over the rear of the tophat and maintains its round shape. 
For easier removal of the shim, I used the smallest drillbit I have and drilled through the shim, then attached a short loop of fishing line to it, (synthetic braid works well, Fireline, PowerPro, Spiderwire etc) there's no interference of the valve/tophat and the loop can be grabbed by a dental pic and shim pulled off.

I hope my description is able to be followed as I don't use a dedicated photo hosting site,, or I would post pics.

I've not done the research with my SS as Jethro has. I read posts by other SS owners here and the TT site and tried some of their experiments without spending extra money. I got to where I was confident of my guns' capabilities and left it there. I've yet to shoot and record a full string of total shots from full psi to wherever it drops off,, but I'm betting it would be 60 or more at the pw setting of 6-1 it's on now.

I amazed myself with this SS a couple months back.....I was doing some target shooting at my 35yd sight-in distance and noticed a black bird, a Grackle on the ground behind a neighbors' property which is pretty far away. I took a position resting the gun on top of my gas grill figuring to just "startle" the bird into flying away. Using a two dot hold-over aim I let the 18gr JSB fly, I heard the WHAP, the bird never moved and dropped in its' track!  Shaking my head in disbelief I had to go get my laser rangefinder.....95yds.....lucky shot.

[Ooops]

Is your tophat adjusted so there is no gap when the bolt is closed? If not when you close the bolt and the breech is not against the tophat the hammer hits the breech, then has to travel and hit the tophat.

Make sure when you close the breech that you pull the breech against the tophat as you close it. I make all my guns so there is no gap.

Its a non adjustable TT quick change.

[Ooops]

I hope my description is able to be followed as I don't use a dedicated photo hosting site,, or I would post pics.

No worries, I completely follow what you've done. Its a different approach for sure

I'm betting it would be 60 or more at the pw setting of 6-1 it's on now.................95yds

it sounds a perfect set up

[Ooops]

Is your tophat adjusted so there is no gap when the bolt is closed? If not when you close the bolt and the breech is not against the tophat the hammer hits the breech, then has to travel and hit the tophat.

Make sure when you close the breech that you pull the breech against the tophat as you close it. I make all my guns so there is no gap.

Dyotat many thanks for the prompt. I took the breech out & swapped the o rings. I haven't fired enough shots to be certain but it appears to be working properly now

[Ooops]

Sanding shims
 “How do you accurately, (and painlessly) sand shims?

I asked this question else where at the same and got some interesting responses. Using a mixture of those ideas and a few of my own I've been able to turn out a nice selection of shims. I did it using a pillar drill, a miniature wheel from a rotary tool and a rotary grind stone with a flat face on the end, its similar to those used to port heads.

I put a piece of coarse wet and dry on a flat piece of tile and put it in the vice. I placed the small wheel flat side down on top of the paper and the shim on top. I placed the larger wheel in the chuck of the drill and ran it at slow speed. It was easy to control and very effective.

Initially I put the shim directly on the wet and dry but the paper was wearing far to quickly to be useful. So I came up with the idea of using the wheel from a rotary tool. The paper provided enough of a key to stop the small stone from spinning. In use it reminded me of how flour used to ground

Any how, many thanks to those who provided advice, all very much appreciated

[Ooops]

Is your tophat adjusted so there is no gap when the bolt is closed? If not when you close the bolt and the breech is not against the tophat the hammer hits the breech, then has to travel and hit the tophat.

Make sure when you close the breech that you pull the breech against the tophat as you close it. I make all my guns so there is no gap.

Dyotat many thanks for the prompt. I took the breech out & swapped the o rings. I haven't fired enough shots to be certain but it appears to be working properly now

In a bid to check the fit of the front and rear breech o rings on the barrel, I offered up the breech the wrong way round as well as in the correct orientation.
I found that the rear o ring was a much looser fit than the front. There was positive tension as the front o ring slid on but the rear was not such a good fit.
I changed out the rear o rings several times and all were the same. Is it normal for the breech to be a looser fit at the back?

I took the opportunity to relube every thing and it has improved in frequency but I'm still getting random 50fps variances, some times more, which is throwing of the information to the extent that today I only got one clean string

Description: JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy 18.13 gr

#      FPS  FT-LBS      PF
37    828      27.60    15.01  120 bar
36    835      28.07    15.14 
35    839      28.34    15.21 
34    834      28.01    15.12 
33    830      27.74    15.05 
32    836      28.14    15.16 
31    824      27.34    14.94 
30    836      28.14    15.16  125 bar
29    837      28.21    15.17 
28    844      28.68    15.30 
27    845      28.75    15.32 
26    845      28.75    15.32 
25    846      28.82    15.34 
24    835      28.07    15.14 
23    848      28.95    15.37 
22    851      29.16    15.43  130 bar
21    843      28.61    15.28 
20    845      28.75    15.32 
19    843      28.61    15.28 
18    848      28.95    15.37 
17    848      28.95    15.37 
16    842      28.55    15.27 
15    835      28.07    15.14 
14    842      28.55    15.27 
13    844      28.68    15.30 
12    841      28.48    15.25 
11    841      28.48    15.25 
10    838      28.27    15.19  140 bar
09    831      27.80    15.07 
08    843      28.61    15.28 
07    846      28.82    15.34 
06    845      28.75    15.32 
05    840      28.41    15.23 
04    838      28.27    15.19 
03    837      28.21    15.17 
02    834      28.01    15.12 
01    829      27.67    15.03  150 bar
Average: 839.6 FPS         SD: 6.4 FPS / 0.8%
Min: 824 FPS            Max: 851 FPS
Spread: 27 FPS / 3.2%
Fpe 28.4               Psi 11.9

Can any one tell me what the "PF" column is?

[triggertreat]

While I don't have any AF guns or experience with them, I have been following along and can see you have made real progress with your Condor SS since your first post about it.  I am posting a more  detailed visual for you to maybe help you see your last tune a little better.  You can ignore the efficiency info unless you have a 215cc reservoir which it is based on.  Typically the low dips are caused by inconsistent hammer travel, but not always.  Good luck.

[454 Big Block Chevy]

ok ok ok... let me try and tell you how its working.....

With the 18" barrel... the condor valve is way too powerful..  I have done this before, and am getting pretty good at describing this. 

When you have a airforce gun uncocked, the main spring is under significant preload.    When you set the power wheel at 0/0 its basically cranked up, to some setting, i'd say around 8.  thats why you waste so much air.  This is also why you get the "rogue" shots.  Now.  clipping one coil off hte main spring, shortens the spring, and brings it to near zero preload at 0/0.  this is your now TRUE low power setting.   you will get rather low power obviously.  Now with my current setup, I get an absolute ton of power, and I have to restrict it via top hat, clipping spring, O ring, and such.  i'm at 30 fpe turned so far down.  on a stock valve, you should be around the 600 fps mark, set up with an o ring, and a clipped coil.  you can always buy a new spring from airforce for about 12 dollars.  I picked a random spot cutting about 1/4" total length off the spring, bent it in with a pair of pliers, and used a metal file and a diamond hone, cleaned up the face.  I put the cut side, towards the power wheel.  slowly crank the power up using preload until you get your ideal power setting.  if you don't, you can always remove the insert.  and start from zero again.  I don't have experience with this setup in .22 caliber, on a stock valve, but, i know my .25 was making from about 5 fpe, to about 90 fpe, from full sweep of the power wheel, with the stock hammer, stock spring clipped, and tt top hat opened wide up, still using an o ring.  i have yet to find a tune i could use without using an o ring.  I have tried using the shims, and i keep going back to the o ring.  I use a green AC system HNBR o ring from autozone.  black vitron o rings seem to flatten out too much.  I don't know why but the green ones work better.  Mine fits the top hat stem loosely, but doesn't flop around.

I built my rifle to go to 150 fpe in .25... got real close, and then realized i couldn't stand to use so much air.  Then PA passed airgun hunting, but only .177 and .22... so i swapped barrels down to .22, and am now getting a PILE of shots and its lazer accurate, etc.  love it.

[Ooops]

..... I have been following along and can see you have made real progress
... I am posting a more  detailed visual for you to maybe help you see your last tune a little better.
..... Typically the low dips are caused by inconsistent hammer travel, but not always.  Good luck.

triggertreat thank you so much much for doing this. I think I'm going to need a second morning coffee before I can begin to process the information .... does it come with a manual 

[triggertreat]

Lol, no manual, but it's just a detailed view of the pertinent info you would typical analyze plus a little extra with the deviations from max, average and minimum thrown in.  I thought you might want to view an actual graph of the string mainly to see the bell curve easier.


You have a nice 30 to 35 yard tune now, but I would focus on what Edward said and eliminate those dips.  I believe if you follow his lead you will have a string near or under a 2% ES you will really enjoy accuracy wise long range.  I personally set my tuning goals to be under a 2% ES and SD under 5.  Set your own goals and break them...It's challenging and fun to do and the reward is better accuracy at much longer ranges.


That is a very efficient gun and can't believe you are getting 37 shots averaging 28 FPE using less than 500psi. 

[Ooops]

another awesome post 454, many thanks

..... uncocked, the main spring is under significant preload.   
..... thats why you waste so much air. 

I fully understand you on this. It was the “how to” part of clipping the spring that I wanted to know a little more about. I’m a bit cautious about hacking bits about and was hoping for a “spring chopping guide for dummies” but the I think its a case of JFDI on my part 

......This is also why you get the "rogue" shots.

I had been thinking along the lines of valve, tophat and breech o rings being the cause.
I hadn’t previously considered the preload as being the cause of this, thank you.
Have you come across any instances of people having problems with the breech?

clipping one coil off hte main spring
.... shortens the spring, and brings it to near zero preload at 0/0. 
..... on a stock valve, you should be around the 600 fps mark, set up with an o ring, and a clipped coil. 

a perfect low starting point for my low fpe needs of pest control around buildings

I picked a random spot cutting about 1/4" total length off the spring, bent it in with a pair of pliers, and used a metal file and a diamond hone, cleaned up the face.  I put the cut side, towards the power wheel. 

Perfect thank you and definitely a case of JFDI

slowly crank the power up using preload until you get your ideal power setting.  if you don't, you can always remove the insert.  and start from zero again. 

In experimentation it became apparent to me that I wasn’t going to be able to think of an fps number and set up to land precisely on it. For example looking for 900fps and only getting 850s and 920/50s. I spent a day fossicking around with an infinite combination of shims to no avail. I tried to make the difference up with the power wheel but at any setting it used more air for less shots & for no appreciable improvement

my .25 was making from about 5 fpe, to about 90 fpe, from full sweep of the power wheel

Being able to go from ultra low to full power and all points in between is exactly what I’m after. I have some occasional 6, 12 and 60fpe work but my main stay would be 30fpe so the convenience will be marvellous

i have yet to find a tune i could use without using an o ring.  I have tried using the shims, and i keep going back to the o ring. 

I’m rapidly coming to the same conclusion. I spent all day yesterday trying various shim only combinations and couldn’t better the o ring results. In fact the string I posted yesterday was based on the O ring only set up that you posted earlier.

Just to be clear, am I right in thinking that you use one o ring for all the applications and achieve adjustment through choice of top hat insert and modified power wheel setting?

Taking into account the limitations of the power wheel in its original guise, for me, the attraction of using shims and TT top hat inserts was to be able to precisely and relatively quickly select specific fps.

If I’ve understood correctly shortening the spring will allow me to achieve the same without having to pull the TT top hat to swap shims which seems even more user friendly

i swapped barrels down to .22, and am now getting a PILE of shots and its lazer accurate, etc.  love it.

Exactly what I’m looking for. I hope to be able to swap from low power pest control inside buildings, to 30m plinking to 100m targets. I’m particularly keen to try the 100m fun

[Ooops]

Hi Keith

Lol, no manual,

Well I hope you have lots of patience for daft beginners questions :0)
Is that some thing that you’ve put together?

I thought you might want to view an actual graph of the string mainly to see the bell curve easier.

Absolutely, thank you. I’ve been pasting the results into Numbers(mac). On their own the numbers, (fps), don’t mean much to me but the visual representation in a graph is extremely useful. Now I have to learn to interpret the information that its telling me

You have a nice 30 to 35 yard tune now, but I would focus on what Edward said and eliminate those dips. 

I spent all day yesterday trying to do just that. I've just realised that was one of the first strings that I shot yesterday. I copied Edward's set up to see how my gun compared to his. After that I pulled the breech three or more times trying to cure the dips. Now, as Edward suggests, it seems that I may have been looking in the wrong direction. I’m working up the courage as I type to go out and cut that spring

I believe if you follow his lead you will have a string near or under a 2% ES you will really enjoy accuracy wise long range.  I personally set my tuning goals to be under a 2% ES and SD under 5.  Set your own goals and break them...It's challenging and fun to do and the reward is better accuracy at much longer ranges.

Until yesterday I really would never have believed that such tight parameters were possible for a mere mortal with out some serious celestial intervention. In all seriousness I was so focused on the rogue shots and the target fps that the improvement represented by that string was lost on me. It wasn’t until I sat down in the evening to graph the day’s results that I realised what I had.

Thanks for providing the specific parameters, that really helps. Again its way better than I had previously aspired to but some thing that I really want to chase. My home range is 30m but I’m hoping to experiment with 100m so 2% would be awesome

That is a very efficient gun and can't believe you are getting 37 shots averaging 28 FPE using less than 500psi.

Keep in mind that there’s plenty of room for inaccuracy in those figures. Number one there’s a brand new numpty pcp novice taking the readings. Number two I’m reading off a 1.5” gauge where the needle is thick enough to be an issue. I do have some very accurate 4” analogue gas gauges and a couple of digitals with a decent tolerance. I’ll fit those up when I’ve solved the dips issue. Then I’ll be able to provide much better info. I did read some where on here that 12psi wasn’t unreasonable for a Condor but hey, what do I know :0)   

[Ooops]

I picked a random spot cutting about 1/4" total length off the spring, bent it in with a pair of pliers, and used a metal file and a diamond hone, cleaned up the face.  I put the cut side, towards the power wheel.

Its done!

And here's the info for any one who'd find it useful

I went backwards and forwards forever on how and where to cut it, the reason being that it would be even shorter when bent and tidied up. In the end I measured along the rear face and the widest gap between coils approximated twice the required 1/4". Translating that to the other side it approximated where the spring was crimped at the top, so that’s where I cut it. I used a miniature file to tidy the cut end


In English money the spring is 10cm / 4" long and the advice was to remove 6mm / 1/4" and I estimated the same again was required to bend and tidy it up.
To keep the measurements simple I used 5mm. So after cutting and bending the spring would be 9cm / 3.5" long, which IIRC is what Dyotat advised in an unrelated post.


The plan was to use a bottle jack handle, seen in the photo above, to keep the spring straight when I heated and crimped the end
I heated the end up on the gas cooker, it was ready so quickly there was no time for the pipe trick so I bent it free hand using pliers and quenched it right away



I cleaned it up with scotchbrite and gave it a coat of teflon spray to protect it
Its not totally square but I hope it'll suffice

Stop the presses - it wasn't done
9cm / 3.5" wasn't short enough and it still put enough preload on to give 1000fps at 1/1. I should have realised when the spring was pushing the barrel back during reassembly.

Any how I took it apart again but instead of cutting the spring I heated it up and compressed it by one coil or a full 1cm / .39" to a new overall length of 8cm / 3.14"

I didn't cut because if I made another error it was going to take several weeks to get a new spring to me and this way if it was too short I could stretch it where as I couldn't stick a cut piece back on

The results were as 454 predicted, the first three shots were 604, 594 & 580 @ 150 bar /2170psi with no insert. Thank you Edward, lets hope that's the fix that I'm looking for

edit: I refinished the cut end by grinding, filing, sanding flat and tapering to the adjacent coil so that it mimicked the uncut end

[triggertreat]

Well I hope you have lots of patience for daft beginners questions :0)  Is that some thing that you’ve put together?

I'll do what I can to help you and then rely on the experts to fill in the blanks.


I did create that spreadsheet in MS Excel.  But, I gave it to Steve (SynRodSteve) to incorporate into the Shot String Analyzer he developed and it is just a very small part of that.  Steve has over ten thousand lines of code in the SSA and it is an awesome program that will analyze, store and even compare multiple shot strings together during an analysis request.  A must have for those air gunners wanting an edge.  PM SynRodSteve if you want to purchase a copy.

[Ooops]

Well that’s the end of two very long and very frustrating days with no improvements what so ever in fact things may even be a little bit worse.

I’ve revisited the spring a number of times. I trimmed and polished the end so that it exactly mimicked the factory finish. When I put it back there was no improvement and at 1/1 it actually seemed a tad loose so I stretched it back to 3.5” again for no improvement

I put the Airforce top hat in and adjusted it for no improvement, in fact to be precise I experienced the same problems with it as with the TT version

I noticed a tiny burr on the inside of the hammer which I polished out, again for no improvement
 
I pulled the valve in the bottle and I noticed that the brass plate on the top was easily moved. Is it supposed to be like that? When I replaced I used blue loctite and just snugged it up.

In short I’ve still been seeing random jumps from 25fps through to 150fps. Here’s a string with the AF top hat adjusted to 2.2mm / .087” gap and 1.8mm / .070” thick o ring

AF top hat adjusted to 2.2mm / .087” gap and 1.8mm / .070” thick o ring
Average: 870.1 FPS   SD: 12.6 FPS   Spread: 63 FPS

#   Fps   diff 25   853   -4 24   857   -17 23   874   -1 22   875   -1 21   876   1 20   875   -5 19   880   0 18   880   25 17   855   -17 16   872   -20 15   892   -1 14   893   14 13   879   5 12   874   17 11   857   -23 10   880   25 9   855   -15 8   870   -4 7   874   -4 6   878   48 5   830   -7 4   837   -46 3   883   5 2   878   22 1   856

   

#   Fps   diff 50   863   6 49   857   -4 48   861   10 47   851   -4 46   855   -27 45   882   9 44   873   -2 43   875   -6 42   881   2 41   879   0 40   879   -2 39   881   9 38   872   -3 37   875   5 36   870   6 35   864   -8 34   872   4 33   868   -6 32   874   -13 31   887   25 30   862   -3 29   865   -14 28   879   7 27   872   -2 26   874   21

I’m completely out of ideas, pellets and patience

[Bullseyeft]

I am having the exact same problem. I turned my Talon into a Talondor after replacing the standard valve with a Hiflo valve. I have done everything that you have done except cutting my spring to no avail. I get random low velocity shots in a string from 50fps to 100fps slower than the majority. I have the TTQCTH as well and have polished all internals including the valve internals. I was hoping you would figure it out as I am at a loss for what it could be causing this velocity drop. I am still trying to find out myself. If for some reason I figure it out I will post the fix. I don't have much faith at the moment though. I am totally frustrated as I have been working on this for more than 2 weeks and have wasted over 500 pellets. If anyone has any ideas I would be greatly appreciative if you would share them with myself and the OP.

[Ooops]

I am totally frustrated as I have been working on this for more than 2 weeks and have wasted over 500 pellets.

By pure coincidence I've just read your post on tag. I'm only a week into it but a lot more pellets. Fingers crossed eh!