tri-flow on a sheridan?

[RBQChicken]

Would Tri-flow hurt the seals on a Sheridan Blue streak?  The reason I ask is, when I pump my gun it sometimes makes a "clicking", or "grunting" sound through part of the stroke, and it seems to come from up near where the pump lever is connected to the front plug, a hard place to get oil in to.

I know  a lot of you will say "get some secret sauce", but I've been using ND 30 wt, and I thought maybe the ptfe (Teflon) in the tri-flow would be a more permanent lubricant for the pivot points. I'd still oil the piston with ND 30 wt to provide lube for the valve.

My concern about trying some Tri-flow on the pivot points is something I read on Amazon about it - that it has "solvents" in it.  That makes me worry about any seals in the gun.

[19Sheridan57]

I have never heard of it , so I looked it up. It states  , " High grade petroleum oils and formulated solvents " in its description. I would stay away from it.

I know exactly the sound you are talking about . Maybe after putting some oil on it, use a hair dryer to blow it down into the joint.

[Habanero69er]

I agree with Stephen. Step away from the Tri-Flow.   

[TooJung2Die]

Tri-flow is good lubricant. I wouldn't have any hesitation using it on the area you're describing like pump pivots. I would avoid putting it where it could come in contact with rubber parts like seals because of the solvent component. The solvent pulls the oil and Teflon into hard to reach spots. The solvent will be gone in a day.

I use another 'secret sauce' I learned about here on GTA for pump pivots. Mix some Super Moly Paste from Air Rifle Headquarters with ND 30 wt oil in a pin point oiler. A batch of that and some straight ND 30 wt oil and you have everything you need for a pumper.

[Flint]

I personally wouldn't use Tri-flo anywhere near any of my sheridan's.  I know from using secret sauce, that it seems to migrate throughout the gun on its own.  I imagine tri-flo would do the same thing and I'm not sure how you would actually keep it away from the seals.  way not worth the risk in my opinion.  I'm sure you will be able to get an appropriate lubricate to the right places if you hold the gun at the correct angle/position, apply, and then work the linkage until it gets in there. 

[19Sheridan57]

I personally wouldn't use Tri-flo anywhere near any of my sheridan's.  I know from using secret sauce, that it seems to migrate throughout the gun on its own.  I imagine tri-flo would do the same thing and I'm not sure how you would actually keep it away from the seals.  way not worth the risk in my opinion.  I'm sure you will be able to get an appropriate lubricate to the right places if you hold the gun at the correct angle/position, apply, and then work the linkage until it gets in there.

I agree.

[RBQChicken]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll stay away from the tri-flow in the future (I tried it once and shortly afterwards thought about it possibly working it's way down towards the valve, that's when I thought I'd see what you folks think).

When I put my gun back together I did moly the roll pin and the hole in the lever where it goes through.  In addition, I've been using ND 30 wt.  I see black oil running down the insides of the gun so I figure I'm getting the same effect as Tooyoung2die's suggestion.

I kind of flooded the area with the oil, I also put some in one end of the roll pin and then tilt the gun so the roll pin slot is facing downward and worked the pump lever in the hopes that the oil will flow from the slot and work it's way around the outside of the roll pin.  I've succeeded in getting rid of that sound, but only temporarily.  Seems to come back after the gun has been sitting for a few days. I store it muzzle up. I suppose the oil runs downward, out of the upper areas of the gun.  Maybe I should just ALWAYS oil the area and work it in BEFORE starting a shooting session? 

Stephen, good to hear someone else has heard that and knows what I'm talking about.  Have you succeeded in getting rid of it for good?  I haven't tried your suggestion to hit it with a hair dryer yet.  If the sound keeps coming back I will.

[Horatio]

I would also stay away from tri-flow. I use about a can a day of it at work. I think of it as penetrating oil with PTFE.

Pump pivots are metal-metal. I think moly is better than ptfe for that.

[longhunter]

I oil my Dan every time I use it. The only gun I had that squeaked, was my 392P, with the billet lever. Never could get that bugger to stop.

[19Sheridan57]

Stephen, good to hear someone else has heard that and knows what I'm talking about.  Have you succeeded in getting rid of it for good?  I haven't tried your suggestion to hit it with a hair dryer yet.  If the sound keeps coming back I will.

My 1957 was a" grunter, squeaker," at times, & 30wt ND oil would usually take care of it. I was never 100% sure where the noise was coming from, either. [ I am partially deaf ]  It would eventually start back after some time.  It finally needed rebuilding about 6 years ago, the FIRST time it was ever serviced !!! It has not done that since my guy over-hauled it. He was very thorough with every rifle he did for me. This rifle has been shot at least 10,000 times !!

[bandg]

i've been using Krytox grease on seals/o-rings and it seems to be working well.  I believe that they also make an oil but I haven't tried it.  Both were noted by several others as non-combustible and working well and a little goes a long way.  I have Tri-Flow but only use it in metal to metal contact areas but not on airguns.   

[TooJung2Die]

Krytox and Ultimox are the ultimate in synthetic airgun lubes. Slicker than conventional lubes, last forever and never diesel or combust in even the most powerful spring pistons. Expensive but a little goes a long way. I use both. They've been discussed extensively here on the GTA and those that tried them rarely go back to using conventional dinosaur oils.

[sicumj]

The noise you hear is air escaping past the pump plunger.  You may eliminate it with a new plunger. 

[RBQChicken]

Interesting. I never thought of that.