Honing and cross hatching

[Iron]

OK, now that i have been informed what the correct toll to use is...i would like to know, when honing the compression chamber i'm assuming you use a drill, but how fast do you go? a full out spin, or a slow twist? and how do you know when enough is enough?


I have taken my XL apart, and figure i may as well try some of these things...next is how to de-burr every thing..the trigger included i searched you tube on some of this, i also searched the forum...but i cant do that efficiently i have satellite internet which is slow and has stupid bandwidth cap i have to keep in mind, so searching videos and stuff for hours I'm not opposed to doing i just really cant.


Thanks Jason

[CharlieDaTuna]

I would suggest a slow to medium speed moving it in and out up to the cocking slot.  Be careful not to back it out too far because it will get caught in the slot and break a stone or maybe even the hone.  I normally would use a 200 grit stone for a synthetic seal and 400 or 600 for a leather seal depending on the leather.

 The best thing to use for a lube while honing is just plain mixture of dish soap and water and when finished, flush out with plain hot water, the hotter the better. I would not use any kind of petroleum as a honing lubricant...... ever.

Hope this helps Jason

CDT

[Iron]

Thank you very much, I really appreciate it....I might have to order a new trigger from you the tuna trigger in it now looks like its either been dropped or hit with a grinding wheel...no idea how this could of happened from the previous owner.

Thanks, again..maybe next year I will be able to meet you at Genes.  have fun out there:)

[Iron]

One more thing, how much or how long do i run the hone? Is it until just a nice even cross hatch appears? I would assume a person could go overboard, i dont want that.



Thanks, Jason

[MichaelM]

Jason,

Your more or less just prepping the surface... it usualy doesnt take alot to get it to where it needs to be... lol it kinda depends on the gun and what shape the compression chamber is in or if there is any other scratches that needs worked out and such.... its one of those "bout right there" type of things

[lloyd-ss]

CDT,
Interesting comment about using dish soap and water for the honing lube.  I have not tried that but definitely will.  I've always used kerosene or mineral spirits for engine blocks because they will rust in the blink of an eye when freshly honed.

So not using any petroleum is to prevent  dieseling?

So now I have a couple more old habits I need to break.  Actually, I LIKE the idea of not using oil for honing.  Soap and water will be much cleaner.

Lloyd

[Chinc]

Jason, I used the soapy water solution and gave it 15 seconds of honing with a 400 grit stone brake hone and when it seemed like enough, I flushed it with water, dried it out and slid a small flashlight part way down to check the bore. It still showed small up and down lines so after some more honing, the lines were gone so I cleaned everything, deburred, lubed and put it back together. BTW this is on my brother's D34 T05 and it's turned out to be a sweet shooter.


Rick