Paintball Inline Bench Regulator

[FuzzyGrub]

I have a paintball regulator from an AV fill bottle that is just sitting around, and would like to convert it to an inline regulator for extended bench sessions.  I already have two double ended fill hoses with female fosters on both ends, so want males on in and out of the reg.  I have seen a number of pictures and discussion, but have some specific questions.

- Reg is currently set to 2900psi and would want to lower it to 2500-2600psi.   Is that just changing the Bellville stack arrangement? or do I need different washers?

- Plan to cut-off most of the tank threads and drill, tap, and plug the hole.  Looks like there is plenty of material and will epoxy the plug.

- Plan to put gauge in the 5K burst disk port to read output pressure.  I'll be feeding only with bottles that will have max 4.5Kpsi so don't see where that is needed anymore, but would like to make sure.  Plug the original gauge hole.

- If I remove the check valve in the male foster fill, do I need a bleed on the output?  Ie will the bleed back at the tank be sufficient?  Or is there risk of the reg plugging up and there is pressure in the output hose to the gun? 

- Drill and tap the tophat with 1/8" NPT for the male foster output or bleed/foster. 

- Remove the check ball on output to allow output flow.

I appreciate any comments or suggestions.

[FuzzyGrub]

Well, the gauge threads are different than the burst disk ones, so no moving the gauge.

[rsterne]

Gauge threads are not the same as burst disc, as mentioned above.... You cannot bleed the output hose backwards through the regulator, so you will need a separate bleed valve on the output side.... I would suggest building a simple aluminum block that contains a gauge and bleed valve that connects to the regulator and your fill hose using Fosters.... Otherwise, you are talking about doing this....



I have three of these now, with outputs of 1900, 2900, and 3800 psi.... You must set the output using shims, or by changing the Belleville washers.... For your small reduction in pressure, just look and see if there are any flat shims, and take them out to reduce the pressure.... The photo below shows my gauge and bleed block.... The bleed valve is hidden behind the gauge in that photo.... Sorry I don't have a better photo of it.... You could also use a high-pressure rated "X-cross" female fitting have four 1/8" NPT ports, of course.... inlet, outlet, gauge, and bleed valve....



If you already have a microbore hose to run from the gauge block to your gun, you would mount the Foster required directly to he gauge block where the output hose on mine is attached.... The bleed valve is home-made, I have done a couple of different styles.... Here is a simple one installed on the side of an ASA valve.... It screws into 1/8" NPT threads, so would be suitable for use with a "cross" style fitting....



The bleed valve body is a 1/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT steel hydraulic male-male adapter.... The inside of the large end is drilled and tapped to 3/8"-24 threads, and a small Delrin or Teflon seal is machined as shown.... The small end of the seal fits loosely inside the through hole in the fitting, and the tapered portion seals against the bottom of the hole drilled for the tap, which acts as the seat.... A short 3/8" NF bolt is screwed in by hand to hold the seal against the seat.... If you look closely, you will notice a 1/16" hole drilled between the 1/4" NPT threads and the hex wrench flats (facing down in the photo), which vents the air when you crack the bolt 1/2 turn (you can do this with your fingers easy enough)....

I had one of these bleed bolts lost on a buddy bottle that was laying in the back of an ATV, I guess the vibration just rattled it out.... I have since ground a slot in a longer bolt, just outboard of where the 1/4" NPT adapter end, that runs 3/4 of the way around.... I added a 1/4" female joiner with a hole in the side drilled and tapped for an 8-32 SHCS which acts as a stop to keep the bolt from being turned more than about 1/2 turn, which is more than you need to bleed the air.... That arrangement prevents you from backing out or loosing the 3/8" bolt.... If you can find a commercial bleed valve that will handle the pressure, you can use one, of course....

Bob

[sixshootertexan]

Instead of machining the regulator and making it useless for later use why not buy one of these and just use a fill station to hook up to the gun.

https://www.customproducts.us/products/detail/5463

Here's one I made myself with a few CC's of volume.

[FuzzyGrub]

Bob, thx for all the additional details.  It was your pics that caught my eye. 

SS, I'll have to consider that for not cutting and tapping.   Are you using a reg output gauge and bleed? 

[sixshootertexan]

I just got the coiled remote line yesterday and have not put a gauge on it yet. The remote line has a bleed built into it. Just remember that the regulator you have may only work with the Ninja adapter if the ball valve is recessed in deeper than a normal paintball reg.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/332160241595?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[FuzzyGrub]

I just got the coiled remote line yesterday and have not put a gauge on it yet. The remote line has a bleed built into it. Just remember that the regulator you have may only work with the Ninja adapter if the ball valve is recessed in deeper than a normal paintball reg.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/332160241595?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It is an Air Venturi 2.9K which I believe is made by Ninja.  So it would take the long pin type, correct?

[sixshootertexan]

Yes they are made by Ninja. Just look at yours and see if the ball is flush with the top or recessed in a little.

[rsterne]

If you are thinking of using a slide check, which bleeds the line when disconnecting.... I wish you luck.... Anything higher than CO2 pressures and I find they distort the O-ring out into the bleed hole, and shear it, or cut a chunk out of it.... AFAIK, there are no slide checks that will handle 2000 psi, let alone 2900.... I have had them fail at 1400....

Bob

[MJP]

The slide checks tend to cut the rings even on co2 pressures sometimes.

Marko

[imadunatic]

Here's one I made myself with a few CC's of volume.

I just had one of those coil hoses pop on me a couple weeks ago (@700 PSI).... Scared the bejesus out of me. I think it actually developed a really slow leak between the internal hose and the outside casing, when I took it in, I noticed it was about 1/2" in diameter (about double) then all of a sudden a large bubble started forming at a weak spot so I opened the valves on each end to let out the pressure, but the bubble kept getting larger even with no pressure in the line and then POW! My dog wouldn't come near me for hours.

I replaced it with a ninja microbore. I'm hoping this holds up better. Does anyone know of a source to buy just the pre made ninja hoses?

[FuzzyGrub]

I'm thinking of using the AV fill station top, which has a bleed.  Does anyone know if the output hose is using 1/8" NPT?   I just need to add a gauge and easy to put a tee on that.  Add a male nipple or just connect the two hoses with a double male nipple I have.

I like the idea of that cup for the bottle threads, but gets a bit pricy with shipping.  It would make for a clean looking package though. 

[sixshootertexan]

I've had a Ninja slide check that failed using 2000psi. This slide check seems to be built better and I'm only running 1100psi on it right now. It also does not bleed the line just the air between it and the fill valve on the gun.

[rsterne]

Correct, so the line between the regulator and the slide check remains pressurized.... A gauge would still show the same.... Disassembly of anything on the outlet side would be problematic.... IMO a bleed valve is the only proper solution....

Someone needs to make a simple, cheap, reliable, safe one that will screw into an 1/8" NPT port.... or even a 3/8"-24 burst disc port, and then it could replace the downstream side one in the regulator....

Bob