Hello everyone,I recieved my new Crosman 2240 about a week ago and have been shooting it at about 3 meters. I am VERY pleased with the accuracy at this distance, albeit quite short. I can obliterate the bull's eye with 5 shots at 3 meters. I am not going to shoot it at any farther than about 7-8 meters due to space restrictions. I am sure the stock 2240 would do fine at this but I would still like to optimize it to my specific wishes, just for the fun of it. By that I have a few modifictions in mind that I would like to share with you ang get your advice on.Semi-related to this thread, here's a quick little tip on building a home made, poor man's "silencer" that I have found to be very easy and fairly effective to make this gun more neighbour-friendly. Take a laundry rack, put some blankets and pillows over it, leave a big hole at the back and a smaller hole at the front. Place this contraption in front of you when you shoot, holding the gun inside of it and shooting through the smaller hole in the front. It's a hassle to do this until I install a silencer, but I'd say it cuts the sound level by about 30-50%.I have quite a long list of questions. Please don't hesitate to respond if you can pitch in on only one, any advice is greatly appreciated.First a few general questions before I get into the modding part:1. I am used to shooting air rifles (I have a CZ Slavia 631), and not so much pistols. My left eye is dominant so with rifles I have to close my left eye because it's hard for me to focus on the right eye's image without closing the left. With pistols (my friend's Webley Tempest and my 2240) I have found myself shooting with my left eye instead without closing my right eye. Is this acceptable technique or does it mess up my stance or something?2. Is it harmful to the gun to cock it and pull the trigger without charging or loading it, as it is harmful to shoot springers without a pellet? I've been assuming it isn't and I've been doing it a lot to practice my trigger pull, but I'm asking just in case.Now for the modding, a huge part of the reason why I bought this gun.3. I plan on installing a silencer, will this cause any decreases or increases in velocity and/or accuracy?4. Does anyone have any experience with both a Weihrauch silencer and a TKO silencer? I am leaning towards the Weihrauch because I am under the impression that it's more quiet, but if the TKO is only very slightly less quiet, I might go for that as it's smaller. I think the TKO slides on instead of screwing on though. If that's the case I probably prefer the Weihrauch or another screw-on silencer as I also want to be able to shoot it without the silencer attached.5. If I buy the Weihrauch, I plan on installing this adapter:Will this cause any changes in accuracy if I leave it on without the silencer?6. As I want to be able to shoot without the silencer attached, I will need front sights on this adapter. I know of one solution, which is to use a longer set screw in the adapter. But preferably I would like to have one of those transparent green sticks as my front sight. There is a metal workshop on my street. I haven't gone in to ask yet, but maybe some of you know more about what kind of equipment a metal workshop typically has. Do you think they would be able to make me something from scratch that I can mount on top of the adapter and place a one of those green sticks in? Would they be able to blue it to match the color of the gun?7. Internals: I would like to make this gun shoot as fast as possible with a 7.5" barrel without wasting any CO2. As I understand it, the CO2 valve stays open for too long in the stock 2240 which lets out too much gas resulting in wasted CO2 and the notoriously loud pop when firing. I've found three common mods changing the flow of CO2. (1) Changing the hammer spring, (2) installing a power adjuster, (3) changing the angle of the link between the barrel and the CO2 valve to 45 degrees instead of 90. Which of these mods, and/or others, would you recommend for my situation? I've read conflicting reports of the effectiveness of the hammer spring mod and the power adjuster, especially in conjunction with each other. One thing that makes it hard for me to find an answer to this is that most people looking for more power change the length of their barrel, which I don't want to do. I want to keep the gun compact, as it's already going to be quite long with the silencer. I want maximum power and efficiency of CO2 use with a stock barrel, maybe down the line even a shortened one. I have no budget limits for this gun. Not because I'm rich, just because I'm patient and it's fine if it takes years to build.8. I've read that installing a long steel breech may affect accuracy and even velocity, is this true?9. I think I've also read that the main tube of the 2250 doesn't have the stamping with the safety cautions on it, and is interchangeable with the 2240. Is this true?10. I think I've seen kits for 2-stage triggers. Do you think this is worth the effort? Also, I've seen lots of pictures with brass triggers. Exactly the same trigger except in brass. Are these all custom or did Crosman use to make them that way? I'm going to make mine black with brass accents and wooden grips, so a brass trigger would be nice.11. Does anyone know of some dark colored (preferably slightly reddish) wooden grips, WITH checkering?12. Does anyone know of a straight-pull bolt system for the 2240? Small thing, but I would rather only have to pull the bolt back rather than up and back, I feel that would suit a pistol better.13. I'm looking at this rear sight:I'm sure many of you know it, it's offered on the custom Crosman webshop. I like the fact that it's rather small compared to the other sights offered by Crosman, and I like the white dots, would especially like that together with the green front sight. Does anyone know of any other similar alternatives which may be better?Well, that's all I could come up with for now. I know that some answers can be found by using google, and I have already done a LOT of reading even before recieving the pistol in the mail. But I've found myself somewhat lost in the enormous amount of information. I've also noticed that lots of times, changing one thing has an effect on another thing, such as the silencer remocing the front sight or the conjunction between hammer spring mods and power adjusters. That's why I thought it would be good to make a thread specific to my situation to guide me as I customize my 2240. I'm not expecting all of these anwers to be answered very quickly, but I'm very much looking forward to reading your thoughts.PS: For those interested, here are some of the plans I have for this which I didn't have any questions about. I plan to keep this gun as modular as possible, being able to shoot it as a simple pistol with open sights, or with accesories such as a red dot sight, laser mounted on the trigger guard and a silencer. I want none of these to be required for one another, hence the questions about the front sight on the silencer adapter and the rear sight, even though I will buy a red dot sight as well. I will also use brass caps on the front and back sides of the main tube where you place the CO2 (maybe a power adjuster on the back end, but it would have to be brass), a brass safety pin, brass screws in the grips, the bolt will stay brass but may be changed to a different shape, and maybe a brass barrel band but I don't think so, I think that would probably be too much for brass accents. The trigger will probably be brass as well, maybe with a black trigger shoe, I think that might look good.Happy shooting!
It's unlimited on what type of modifications you can do to the 2240. I ended with enough spare parts to assemble 2 more pistols.The only problem is that you will kick yourself after adding up the cost of all the parts. It world be more economical to start with the 2250 with the steel breech. It's too addictive but a lot of fun. Bob
wow covered alot of ground. first the 45degree mod is inside of the valve, not to the transfer port. clipping a coil or 2 will make the gun alittle more effiecient and just alittle quieter. the power adjuster could allow you you drop the power back to where you are getting better efficiency. cutting back the flow of co2 alittle may save you co2 and lower the noise while only minimally affect fps. but remember, there's always a trade off. nothing is free. more power, more co2, or longer barrel etc. no free ride. gmac makes alot of parts, nice brass bits. of intrest to you maybe a brass barrel band with dovetails on the bottom. this allows accesories to be attatched to the bottom. also have wood grips. i know a chinese place with checkered grip also if you dont mind chinese. trigger, if you want the best possible trigger for this platform in pistol form, get yourself a p-rod trigger group from crosman. not overly expensive and well worth it. uyou'll need a different hammer for this trigger. or mod the original. easy jb weld mod.lol. i go a different route though.if you want to use that lpa site you'll need a crosman breech with the cross cut 3/8" dove tail. i haven.t seen after market breeches with the cut. maybe gmac. if you go with different rear site gmac makes a nice brass breech. most after market breeches have 2 barrel hold down screws. you could always drill and tap a crosman breeech for an extra one. some after market breeches also come in aluminum, saves some wieght.front site. if you take off the moderater there are several sites that will go on the barrel . have funkj
I added the Crosman LPA rear sight and swapped out the front site for a fiber optic site, it makes it much nicer, I just wish the rear LPA had fiber optics also. Of course if your going to add a silencer, you may not be able to use the front sight since it installs the same as the original. Best of luck with your project, I look forward to seeing the finished product.
A lot of questions at once. Only responding to two.#2 No harm in doing so. An aside; If loaded or unloaded and cocked, it can be decocked by firmly holding the bolt, pulling the trigger, and slowly bringing the bolt into battery.#7 A stock 7.5" 2240 is rather wasteful of CO2. Use the Crosman PA assembly from the 2300S - very inexpensive and includes a hammer spring. Consider the internal valve sleeve from the 2300T to reduce valve capacity.
Maybe this will give you a couple ideas... nothing fancy, just a pile of stuff I put together. Some of the key things making it a bit more efficient are the PA, light hammer spring and the BHB mod (BStaley Hammer O-rings mod)
On the performance increase side..Get a striker spring adjuster, a Pro-Top, Disco valve body and stem (to go with the Pro-Top) lighten the striker and groove the bottom to be sure it it clears the sear, use an ice maker tube transfer port with a metal breech and an bolt with an extended probe. Here's a link to a 6" barreled 2240 build that I did a while back, along with some chrony results. ( If this link is not permissible mod please delete, and my apologies)[Had to remove your links in the quote because it wouldn't allow me to post otherwise]
If you think you can get much more performance from a 2240 with stock 7.5" barrel, you will be disappointed.... You can make it bark louder, and burn through more CO2.... but the short barrel is going to put an upper limit on your power.... Shooting at higher temperatures will help, because the higher gas pressure will give the pellet more of an initial kick.... but changing out the hammer spring, or increasing the preload, just wastes even more gas than the gun does already....On the other hand, if you want to get a lot more shots, at a more constant velocity (not dropping as fast as the gun cools during shooting).... you can REDUCE the hammer spring preload, or shorten the spring.... You can also lighten the hammer.... and you can, of course, fit an SSG.... It is easy to double the number of shots without having less velocity than you would at the end of a normal 30 shot string on a stock gun....The choice is yours.... loud and gas hungry.... or a sweet, much quieter (even without a can), and way more economical shooter....Bob
I am not aware of any way to angle the exhaust port in the gun 45 degrees.... even 30* would be questionable.... I mod. my Disco valves with a 5/32" end mill, plunged in at an angle of 20*, and then round the bottom end, where it joins the throat of the valve, with a small Dremel burr.... That is about all you can do, and I don't really think you will gain very much on CO2 with a short barrel.... I am doing those mods. on a rifle with a 24" barrel at 2000 psi air pressure, and it is worthwhile then.... It likely won't hurt on a 2240 in .22 cal, but porting in that manner would be too big for a .177.... You can drill out the transfer port to as large as 0.162", and the barrel port the same size, but again you may not gain, but in .22 cal are unlikely to lose.... Making port mods without backing off on the hammer spring will make the gun use even more CO2, with very little velocity gain because of the short barrel.... If you reduce the hammer spring preload, and/or shorten the spring, to save CO2, you may end up with close to the power you have now, and more shots....Don't expect too much.... and enjoy the journey.... Bob
ok, yes most, if not all the breeches have dovetails cut for optics. for the lpa site there needs to be a 3/8" dovetail cut perpendicular to the breech for the site to fit in. alot of other options for rear sights without that, that will fit the normal dovetails.jb weld is a metal epoxy that some use to fill in the waist on the hammer to make it work with the p-rod trigger group. mellonair makes one that works without having to use jb weld. i use the p-rod hammer/striker/ acetal pin and p-rod end cap. i use this set-up cuz i can then adjust the hammer pre-load(like a power adjuster) and i can adjust the throw as well. something you can't do with other hammer and power adjuster set-ups.
if you look at the pic of the lpa site you posted , look at the bottom, that is a 3/8" dovetail that is cut perpendicular to the scope rails. here's some pics i took...in the pics with 3 breeches , the middle one is the type that accepts the lps site. the top type has the rear cut to accept the original plastic site, the bottom siver/aluminum has niether. if you can't tell from pics on vendors website if the breech will accept the lpa site, ask them . breeches from crosman also come in a short type that i don't have. never had a desire for less room for mounting optics. i prefer the flat sided type breech, like the silver/aluminum breech for asthetic reasons. i had a dozen special made in aluminum and afew in brass. had the aluminum ones anodized in blue, black and natural. the blue ones i also had engraved. as long as you can mount the optics you like , choice in available breeches is a matter of taste. the crosman ones are the only ones i know of that have the perpendicular dovetail for the lpa site. down side is they only have 1 barrel hold down screw. though an extra one can easily be added.
Disco valve = from a Crosman/Benjamin Discovery PCP rifle.... It is the same basic valve as a 22XX valve, with an extended front end, sealed into the tube with O-rings.... Internally, the dimensions are the same as a 22XX valve, but it has a harder poppet to withstand the higher pressures.... I am not suggesting it for your use, there would be no advantage, I just mentioned it because the porting is the same, and the same modifications would apply.... Yes, the idea is to get a smoother, slightly increased gas flow, and then shorten the valve dwell to conserve CO2.... The first part of the impulse does more of the work of accelerating the pellet, and there is no point in keeping the valve open after the pellet leaves the muzzle, of course.... A stock 2240 does exactly that, you can reduce the hammer spring preload and save CO2 without losing any velocity initially.... Here is what happens with a 2240 with a 14" barrel as you change the hammer spring preload.... The 7.5" barrel will benefit less, if at all, from increased preload.... and note it only effects the first few shots anyways, when there is some liquid CO2 getting into the valve (very wasteful) and before the gun cools.... Shots are about 30 seconds apart....and here is what happens with a 24" barrel showing what you can achieve by tuning to conserve CO2.... Sorry, I don't have similar charts for a 2240 with 7.5" barrel, but you get the idea....Bob
striker hammer are generally the same thing, the difference here is that the p=rod one is 3 pieces, hammer, striker/acetal pin. the acetal pin is just a small piece of nylon that locks the striker from moving on its' own....the striker is threaded into the hammer and can be adjusted for throw from outside the gun if using the p=rod end cap, which is also 2 pieces and needs one hole drilled and tapped to fit your gun. then the pre-load can also be adjusted.the crosman website has a section with all the manuals with exploded parts diagrams. you'll need to get familiar with that so you can get parts numbers for ordering. you need them to order, customer service isn't going to look up all the parts for you..lolpeace kj
dutch, you also do well to look up some of bobs' , rsterne , past posts on co2, lots of excellent info there for sure, i've leaned alot from him over the years.fivestar, anthony is also a wealth of info for sure. he produces the pro top. using the protop allows removal of the piercing pin and gives a straighter co2 flow path. worth considering. hats off to bob and anthonypeacekj
Sorry for the delay in responding.I just took a stock 2240 barrel and measured it for the barrel band and muzzle brake to get my length and chopped it off then recrowned it. I wasn't going for shot count or power... it was pure "cool". I wanted a stubby and had a bunch of stuff laying around. I must be honest, I did steal a couple parts from Betty Lou's 2260 HPA carbine that the mailman just delivered replacements for today. I think I get 35 or so shots from a C02 and waste a ton of it. The muzzle brake is from a 2260 I think? I've never chronied it so all I can tell you is that anything within 20 meters gets hammered. And those .22 benji destroyers turn into shrapnel. The BHB and shorter hammer spring all but eliminates hammer bounce and possibly flattens the string out some. The power adjuster allows me to have a little more control on shot count. I begin a C02 cart with it backed out the slowly turn it in throughout the shot string until I completely lose POI. I usually end up dry firing 6 - 8 times to empty the remains of the C02 cart for replacing. It's just a fun gun to have in the fishing box or in the glovebox/under the seat. Sometimes we are in our barn/bar/shop/indoor shooting range late in the evening with our scoped plinkers. Various night creatures visit uninvited. Willie G. Stubbs is a great guy to have laying in wait on the shooting bench.
PA assembly is a power adjuster? I didn't know Crosman makes them. What does this do for me? Would it allow me to adjust the hammer spring so that it's just allowing CO2 to escape until the pellet leaves the barrel, and no longer? That's my current understanding of how power adjusters and hammer spring mods work, but I'm not sure I understood that right. What is a valve sleeve and why do I want to reduce valve capacity?
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