Sheridan reseal help needed

[Radrob]

The kit came in today from Baker and I cleaned everything and putting it back together. I'm having trouble installing the valve. I followed the instructions but how hard am I supposed to "Tap the end of the removal tool" to seat the parts?

I'm using both the Baker instructions which is also the same as http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1177168737/sheridan+C9+rebuild

[Hoosier Daddy]

Sorry Robert, can't help ya with my limited knowledge I have rebuild soldered valves but not with Bakers kit... Does it use the white poly pieces like a Mac1 kit?
I can give your question a bump back to the top of this Gate so hopefully someone else can take notice.
Maybe if all else fails give Baker a call?
My C9 should be here today or tomorrow... so thanks for the link.

You might like this one better...http://ujays.net/sheridan.html Just below the Silver / Blue Streak photo is "Sheridan Repair Manual" a link to a PDF of the factory service manual.
 

[Douglas001]

I just re sealed a 312, twice, and my 86 Sheridan C model.  Twice also    The Baker kit has quality parts in my opinion and they can be tough to get started.  Make sure everything is squeaky clean, especially threads on body and nut.  Lead gets in the threads.  Try dry fitting the parts with out the springs at first and then mark the driving tool with tape where it meets the top of the tube body.  This gives you an idea of how close or far you are from seating when springs are installed.  The first lead seal can be dropped in and left there as you then slowly put valves and springs in place.  A little bit of oil on the parts will help final install.  Before you start threading the beveled retaining nut, screw the threaded end of the tool onto the valve stem and push down on entire assembly, gently.  Your tape on the tool should line up with the valve body.  That whole assembly will want to spring right back at you.  There is really no way to seat it into a holding position as far as I can tell.  You then will have to take the square retaining nut and simultaneously press down and start threading the nut into the body.  That's the trick part!  Use caution as it is possible to strip or cross thread.  A half or more turn counter clockwise the clock wise helps.  I listened for a "click" while doing this but never heard it as I was most likely swearing too loud.   Put a screwdriver thru the hole in the tool to act as a handle during turns.  It can be frustrating but if I managed to do it, I think anybody can!  Good luck and good shooting!

Doug

[Hoosier Daddy]

I thought Randrob was trying to seat the white poly check valve... using the tool to tap directly on it.
Assuming Baker uses parts similar to Mac1...



https://www.mac1airgun.com/rebuildpartstechniques.html

My Check valve(inlet) is the best ever. Hit it good to seat it with X visible. Use a solid drift just smaller in diameter than the check valve and strike it good so it is smashed into the seat. Make sure you are not trapping any debris when you do this. Cleaning the thing out is the key to a quality job.

[Buldawg76]

It also helps to wrap the tool with duct tape so that the tape is in the top end of the tube when rotating to thread the bevel nut to the valve body. You want to wrap the tool with enough duct tape so its just fits in the tube and holds the tool in the center of the tube perfectly aligned perpendicular to the valve body threads so you do not have to worry about holding the tool square to the valve but rather just having to push down and rotate to start the bevel nut into the valve.

This takes one less operation out of the equation and makes it a good bit easier to assemble. I also use some silicone grease on the bevel nuts square hole and the poppet stem to hold them in the tool while inserting it into the tube so the nut and poppet stays in the tool until it reaches the valve threads. I also place the tube on a smooth surface so it will rotate and instead of trying to rotate the tool to start the bevel nut I rotate the tube with one hand while applying pressure with the other to get the threads started.
I find it much easier to do it that way versus trying to rotate the tool while starting the threads.

Hope this helps.

Mike

[Radrob]

Thanks for the tips guys. I haven't touched it again but will try again later. The Baker kit comes with a new checkvalve and 1 lead and 1 poly seal/washer. The checkvalve is a little taller than the original too but not by much.

I'll clean it out again and use the tips from here to see if I can get it done. Thanks again.

[Radrob]

I got it back together and with 8 pumps will go through a pine 1x2 at 15yds, now I have to get used to pumping this monster again.

The problem was me adding a washer when the original lead one was still there. DUH!! It didn't look like it was there and I cleaned it out many times but that little bit made all the difference and it went back together smooth and easy. I called Dennis Baker and he said to use a screwdriver and lightly tap it and I should feel it's lead, Yep it was lead but it looked like the valve body to me.

I have to Thank Rob112o for helping too, he's been talking me through this in PM's.

The new plinker, she don't look too bad for a 64 model but someone painted it and did a terrible job so that means another project coming soon.


The top hole is 5 pumps, the bottom 2 are 8.

[Buldawg76]

Glad you got it together and it looks good and seems to be a shooter.

Mike

[Hoosier Daddy]

NICE!
Good job.