Broken Tab on Valve Guide from Silver Streak - Now What???

[Gear_Junkie]

So... I broke the tiny tab off the valve guide when trying to insert it into the tube.  Is there any option other than getting a new valve guide?  I'm happy to try whatever on the guide, since it's toast anyway.

Thanks.

[longhunter]

What tab?? I've never seen a Sheridan with a tab on the valve. A picture would help clear things up.

[20cal]

It's still usable. When you install it just make sure the exhaust port is facing up towards the barrel.

[Gear_Junkie]

It's still usable. When you install it just make sure the exhaust port is facing up towards the barrel.

I attached a pic.  I've spent about 2 hours trying different ways to do this, but the valve retainer keeps ends up spinning around when I tighten the valve retainer nut.

[20cal]

Try installing it without the lead washer that goes between the valve body and retainer nut. If that doesn't work you will need another valve body. The later style with 2 or 4 exhaust ports will work. Another option is to solder the tab back on or secure it with JB weld if you can't solder.

[avator]

JB Weld gonna stick to that?

[Gear_Junkie]

The little tab is so tiny, I'm not sure how J-B weld would work???

[longhunter]

What year is that streak??? That's a friggin' Benjamin valve.
You can get a valve from Dennis Baker, or Precision Pellet.
You won't be able to fix that very easily, unless you braze a wad on there, and file it to shape,  by hand.

[20cal]

I'm speaking from experience and trying to help. Use whatever skills you have to fix it and if that doesn't work get another one to replace it. Any of the different styles will work.

FYI: All the early Sheridan Streaks came with that valve body with the alignment tab.

[Gear_Junkie]

20cal, I definitely appreciate the help and ideas! I think I'm just going to get another valve.  In the meantime, I may try and J-B weld a small piece of steel wire in there.  I can't go the soldering route because I don't have the tools for it.

It's a '51-'52 Silver Streak.  It's the original valve because the interior of the tube is keyed for it. 

[Radrob]

FYI: All the early Sheridan Streaks came with that valve body with the alignment tab.

How early are you talking? I'm working on a 64 and there's no tab.

[20cal]

Thank you Zack, I know it's a hard repair. A small piece of wire is a good idea. Maybe a small hole can be drilled in the side of the valve body to help secure the wire.

I think the valve body with the tab was used from 1949 to 1952. Maybe to 1953/54. I know 1955 uses the later type.

[Gear_Junkie]

Thank you Zack, I know it's a hard repair. A small piece of wire is a good idea. Maybe a small hole can be drilled in the side of the valve body to help secure the wire.

I think the valve body with the tab was used from 1949 to 1952. Maybe to 1953/54. I know 1955 uses the later type.

Actually, drilling a small hole to secure the wire is a great idea.  I think that's what I'll try to do tomorrow.  Now I just have to hope that the local stores carry J-B Weld.

[avator]

Or chuck it up in a drill and use a file to make your own 4 hole valve.

[avator]

Of course that would be temporary until you find the correct valve.

[Gear_Junkie]

Or chuck it up in a drill and use a file to make your own 4 hole valve.

I'm way to impatient for this!

[WECSOG]

Thank you Zack, I know it's a hard repair. A small piece of wire is a good idea. Maybe a small hole can be drilled in the side of the valve body to help secure the wire.

I think the valve body with the tab was used from 1949 to 1952. Maybe to 1953/54. I know 1955 uses the later type.

Actually, drilling a small hole to secure the wire is a great idea.  I think that's what I'll try to do tomorrow.  Now I just have to hope that the local stores carry J-B Weld.

I wouldn't use JB Weld, nor any other chemical. I would get a propane blow torch, some flux and high strength solder, and solder a new tab on it. The torch, flux and solder are all in one section at Lowes or Home Depot, and you can get brass wire or shim stock nearby in the same store. You're not gonna melt the brass, so if it doesn't come out right the first time, remelt and try again.
That will be a permanent repair.

[Gear_Junkie]

I wouldn't use JB Weld, nor any other chemical.

Too late, I already went the JB Weld route today.  It actually came out pretty clean.  I'm going to let it cure for 24 hours and then see if it will re-insert.