CP1-M pistol first impressions

[rws_53]

there were a couple of guys in this thread who wanted to know how to load the CP1-M magazine

loading and unloading YouTube video LINK HERE

[HueAirgun]

there were a couple of guys in this thread who wanted to know how to load the CP1-M magazine

loading and unloading YouTube video

It looks like the skirt of the pellet gets damaged everytime

[Wayne52]

there were a couple of guys in this thread who wanted to know how to load the CP1-M magazine

loading and unloading YouTube video

It looks like the skirt of the pellet gets damaged everytime

These are the same clips that the Varmint uses also, I've loaded and unloaded them more than once and never noticed any skirt damage at all.  The SPA guns that use these clips seem to be very accurate as well.

[rws_53]

there were a couple of guys in this thread who wanted to know how to load the CP1-M magazine

loading and unloading YouTube video

It looks like the skirt of the pellet gets damaged everytime

I've never damaged any skirts loading my magazines....

[SophusLie]

I also rounded the edge of the trigger blade per Mark's description in the other thread. Turns out my trigger blade is angled slightly towards the left hand side so this edge clean up really helped my right handed use. Just need to find a lighter sear spring to go with the mod I described earlier and the trigger will be done.

Do you have the link to Mark's trigger work?

On my .22 cal Mrod-air CP1-M, I've already beveled – rounded – the right edge of the trigger, as well the right corner of the trigger.
Trigger-guard edges were also rounded.
And the flat, inside of the trigger guard was smoothed with some fine bronze wool.

[WhatUPSbox?]

That was a while back, but I think it was this one
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1492210182/last-1492272034/Expand+Thread

[SophusLie]

That was a while back, but I think it was this one
network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1492210182/last-1492272034/Expand+Thread]http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1492210182/last-1492272034/Expand+Thread

Thanks for the quick reply.  The link to “Inside the Mrod CP-1M” is a keeper.
Thus far, my trigger work is much more pedestrian.  I only rounded and smoothed the edges and places that felt uncomfortable --- and left everything else as is.
There's more to do.
Thanks again.

[WhatUPSbox?]

If you have not tried it, look for a softer sear spring. There are some suggestions in the middle of this thread. For me it made a big difference in being able to shoot it accurately. The nice thing about this pistol is how easy it is to access the trigger components.

[SophusLie]

If you have not tried it, look for a softer sear spring. There are some suggestions in the middle of this thread. For me it made a big difference in being able to shoot it accurately. The nice thing about this pistol is how easy it is to access the trigger components.

I'll definitely put a softer sear spring on my to-do list.

But first, I have to get the hand grip off.  I suspect it is hanging up on the pin that holds the sear in place.
I removed the trigger-guard screw.  Pulled off the trigger guard.  Next, removed the small screw at the back of the hand grip.  Pulled down.  Grip does not move much before meeting resistance.
I suspect a pin has detached from one of its holes and is protruding.
I'm going to try placing a thin piece of metal, such as a thick feeler gauge, between the trigger housing and wood of the grip to locate  the interference.

It didn’t take much for the trigger-stop pin to move out of one of its hole.  Applied small pieces of adhesive label to keep the two pins at the trigger base in place.

[WhatUPSbox?]

On mine, the grip is a snug fit on the back section of the tube. To remove the grip I walk it out by tipping the front end down a bit and then the back end, repeating a few times. There isn't too much for the pins to get caught on. Yes, they are fairly loose. I just put some grease on them, mostly to hold them in place during reassembly.
good luck

[SophusLie]

On mine, the grip is a snug fit on the back section of the tube. To remove the grip I walk it out by tipping the front end down a bit and then the back end, repeating a few times. There isn't too much for the pins to get caught on. Yes, they are fairly loose. I just put some grease on them, mostly to hold them in place during reassembly.
good luck

I needed someone to encourage me to Bruno the wood grip off of my CP1-M.  The tight spot on my pistol is under the rear sight, between the CO2 tube and the inside of the grip.
To remove the grip, I treated the pistol like a break barrel:  Barrel in left hand, grip in right hand --- bring hands together --- grip comes off.
Lightly sanded the tight spot inside the grip, just to make it smooth.  It's still tight.  Better tight than loose.
Also applied some hemp oil (a legitimate wood finish) to the raw-wood insides of the grip.  The color of the beech wood did not change.  In fact, the appearance of the raw beech improved considerably.  Recommended.
For lubrication:  A small amount of Fluid Film (.com) on the sides of the CO2 tube, under the rear sight.
Problem solved.
Thanks again.

[WhatUPSbox?]

Glad it worked out.
Other than the snugness, getting access to the trigger and sear is very quick and makes it easy to do a few iterations on tuning. Really improves a nice pistol.
Have fun

[ron_c]

Has anyone tried the T. R. Robb replacement barrel for the CP-1M?

If so, did it improve accuracy?

[nervoustrigger]

Link?  Or other info, forum post, etc.?

The factory barrel on mine is fantastic after cleaning up the crown.  However the barrel on the Plinkster I received last week (same style, just longer) had damaged rifling at the muzzle from a piloted crowning tool.  Might want to check yours, especially if it was received recently.  The damage is tooling and process related so there are bound to be more besides mine. 

[Wayne52]

Link?  Or other info, forum post, etc.?

The factory barrel on mine is fantastic after cleaning up the crown.  However the barrel on the Plinkster I received last week (same style, just longer) had damaged rifling at the muzzle from a piloted crowning tool.  Might want to check yours, especially if it was received recently.  The damage is tooling and process related so there are bound to be more besides mine. 

Jason I read that thread that shows your barrel on that Plinkster, is that a .177 or the .22?  The reason I ask is because I've also been thinking of getting one in .22 for possible lego purposes, eventually I'd like to get the CP2 as well.

[nervoustrigger]

Um...

Guys, I wanted to give you a heads up that I received a .177 Mrodair Plinkster (SPA CR600W) on Friday that has damaged rifling at the muzzle. 

[ron_c]

TR Robb has a whole buncha parts for the CP1.  Two SS hammer options, Oversize trigger guard, oversize bolt handle, Exhaust valve, transfer ports, Valve body, mainspring guide, and O-ring seal set!  Since I have two guns I am going to try a few parts!

Please post the results-I'd like to hear about these parts, especially the adjustable hammer, valve and TP! BTW, I couldn't find all the parts you mentioned. Is there a link on his site I'm missing?

I tried the adjustable hammer and wasn't impressed with the performance.  Reinstalled the stock hammer and will use that one.  I'm not sure if I can say anything negative about a product on this forum.

Anyone know of someone that can take a Lothar Walther barrel, and make it fit the CP-1M?

[Rob M]

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