Diana 56TH (Hunter Target) - Initial impressions and performance

[wahoowad]

I've still getting to know my new Diana 56TH but want to thank those who already shared helpful advice in some of my initial threads. I've put a cheap Leapers 3-9x40 scope on it for now and have had a couple plinking sessions to get used to the new (to me) side-lever action, rail system and overall shooting action. I did find I was 7" low at 35 yards so will reinstall the scope with the DNT06 drooper mount later.

It's a big gun, but as a fan of the LGU I don't feel this 56TH is too heavy. I shoot from the bench and the weight makes it nice and stable on my sandbag. I like to overall profile of the gun, from the wood of the thumbhole stock to the heavy muzzle brake at the end of the barrel.



It is far from broken in but is initially putting out 20fpe, which was 715 fps using JSB 18 gr pellets. I shot a couple groups at 35 yards and both the JSB 18 and 15 gr show good promise. It was cold and I was wearing bulky clothes so did not try very hard. I still haven't even cleaned the barrel but will do so this weekend, plink some more to further break in and try some groups with different pellets. JSB 18's fit loose, the 15's a little tighter. The 18's slid thru the barrel relatively easy and I noticed a good choke at the end.

The T06 trigger feels really good. I probably won't even feel the need to fool with it for awhile.

It's not quiet, but I wouldn't call it loud either. It's quieter than I was expecting at this power level, with the lighter 15 gr pellets going faster and making a bit more muzzle report. The muzzle brake fits right up to the end of the barrel and there is a rubber washer inside the threaded cap that lightly tightens down against the end of the barrel when fully threaded on. I am hoping I can loosen the allen screws and slide the brake a couple inches forward to create a void to help take more of the noise away. Does anybody know if the allen screws tighten to the round side of the barrel or is there a machined flat the tighten down on?



This is my first Diana, and being a German gun I was expecting a very refined rifle like my HW's, with deep blued lustre and high quality construction. So I was a little surprised to find the metal has some kind of matte textured finish, with what appears to be sheetmetal outer construction over a barrel and action I can't see yet. It's...different...and I keep telling myself it's going to be OK. 



These rivets only accentuate the appearance of 'sheetmetal' construction.



I can't figure out what these "sheetmetal" tabs do that stick out from the forestock. But right at the very very front of them I can see past the sheetmetal to the barrel underneath. Any idea why these tabs protrude like this???






I can't really comment on the rail system, other than it's there and it works. It adds a lot of mechanical noise to the shot cycle that I'm not used to and it may be masking a bit of spring twang. My ear isn't tuned in yet to these various noises. The stock has a significant void to hold the rail system and give it room to move, and this void makes the stock sound thin and 'clackety' kinda like how very dry bamboo sounds. I don't like it but can't imagine how you would make it any different given the rail system inside. I'm hoping to learn more about adjusting and tuning the rail system to include anything I can do to cut down on the noise it makes.

Any input on how to tighten the various stock screws I see underneath (in in-lbs)? I prefer to use a torque wrench to consistently set them.

Who sells aftermarket Diana bling? That plastic trigger guard is an abysmal feature on a higher end springer.

[TwiceHorn]

How interesting.  I have never handled one of the "big" Dianas.  It appears that the barrel is shrouded over its length, then?  Those tabs perhaps locate the shroud at the near end?  The "sheetmetal" shroud? over the forward end of the breech is interesting.

I have been in the vicinity of a regular 56 at an FT match, and it didn't appear much different in metalwork from the AATX200/Prosports and HW97's I have handled.  Maybe I "mis-saw" it.

[wahoowad]

The barrel is covered but I'm hesitant to call it a shroud. It looks to me they used the sheetmetal so they could apply this matte textured finish? And I can't tell if the action has sheetmetal around it like I said previously or if it solid with the textured finish applied. Those rivets might be large pins - initially looked like rivets - not sure.

[TwiceHorn]

Well, the barrel moves with the sledge, no?  And I suppose all the sledge stuff is under the "action" cover or shroud?  But yeah I take your point about not calling it a shroud, at least not in the conventional sense of sound-dampening.

I guess I need to get up-close and persona with one of these sometime.  I just assumed it was built pretty similarly to an FWB300, maybe not.  I guess I haven't studied the 300 that closely either, but if the action was shrouded or covered, the cover was a more conventionally finished tube that looked like a "regular" compression chamber.

[SpiralGroove]

Who sells aftermarket Diana bling? That plastic trigger guard is an abysmal feature on a higher end springer.

Hey Wahoowad,
The Good: Diana 56th has a beautiful stock, wonderful trigger, has a lot of power and a likely a great shooter .
The Bad:   It's a Tank, the metal work is ungainly with too much plastic.

Not a gun for a display of subtle elegance, but a powerful, accurate shooter

[Motorhead]

My take on those sheet metal taps is one of being used to keep action square and true with stock.
The sled mechanics while having 2 rods each align to the block that they slide within, but those blocks ( 2 each ) only have a single mounting post that passes threw the wood stock. These WINGS keep the rotation of action within the stock from happening only allowing front to back motion and no rotation.

Scott

[straightshooter]

I like the flat finish, IMO it is more durable and rust resistant. It's not sheet metal, it a quality metal, most likely the same as the 54, I think the tabs you are referring is where the front sight would be on a 54.

The gap in the wood gives it a free floating design isolated from the stock. Which makes it not hold sensitive anywhere you wish to hold it.

If you want to quiet it more I would try some type of insulating material and fill the void in the muzzle weight.

I would not attempt to monkey with the muzzle brake or sled system, I think you would be opening a can of worms.

[wahoowad]

Do you know how tight to make the stock screws after I reassemble following inspect of the sled?

[straightshooter]

I don't I have often wondered myself, I wonder if it would be possible using a torque wrench starting at low lb setting and working up higher, if this would tell you?

[Mark 611]

their are formulas out there that can tell u how to figure out how much torque to put on a bolt or screw by length and diameter, do a search on the net and see what u come up with

[Sky]

This likely going to be my next springer. All of those pictures just confirm it. There is nothing I see that I don't like. I really like the flat finish too. I didn't expect it. Bluing just rusts, that looks like a substantial finish.

[TwiceHorn]

Do you know how tight to make the stock screws after I reassemble following inspect of the sled?

Hector Medina seems to know about as much as humanly possible about the 54/56.  Might shoot him a PM.  Or look at his blog, http://www.ctcustomairguns.com/hectors-airgun-blog, he has some discussions that have been quoted here about adjusting the sled.

[makarov76]

My take on those sheet metal taps is one of being used to keep action square and true with stock.
The sled mechanics while having 2 rods each align to the block that they slide within, but those blocks ( 2 each ) only have a single mounting post that passes threw the wood stock. These WINGS keep the rotation of action within the stock from happening only allowing front to back motion and no rotation.

Scott

What scott said, wahoowad (THAT IS A BEAUTIFUL RIFLE).
If I got one of those from the UPS truk there would definitely be a
Wahoowad. Plz treat her good!

[chuckinohio]

  Those tabs sticking out at the front are part of the barrel shroud. They are integral to it, and as far as I can tell serve only to locate the shroud and keep it from rotating.
  The shroud is merely a sleeve. Under it you will find a very thin spacer tube that creates an interference fit between the outer tube and the barrel. The outer tube or shroud is purely cosmetic.

[grizzlyadams]

the "matte" finish you are referring to is parkerizing, it is still a chemical finish and what the military finishes their guns is. not as pretty as blueing, but very tough

[straightshooter]

I think it is a beautiful Rifle, and would look right at home hanging on my wall next to my SS HW35 and broken SS HW30.

AOA has them on sale again for $649

[rufus80]

Pyramid Air has refurb Diana 56 .177 for $595.

[wahoowad]

I put about 125 shots thru it yesterday and it is growing on me. Those stock screws are surprisingly small compared to other springers .

[straightshooter]

Keep an eye on the stock screws, I had the front one come loose and fall out during a HFT match, luckily it decided to fall out in my Rifle case and I did not loose it.

Also be careful with any loose fitting pellets that may fall out, if you miss it, like I have done with my .22 52, it will lead to a dry fire and crushed pellet in the compression tube.

[lefteyeshot]

I love my .177 56th. I had Rob Hawkins in Linconton, N.C. tune it awhile back and the shot cycle is smooth as silk. Trigger pull is perfect. I've got a Z mount and a Diamond back scope on it. Holes touching at 25 yards.

If I had any complaint, it is heavy. I shoot left hand and have to change hands to cock and load. Shoot a 100 pellets thru it and it wears me out.