PR900W Predator pcp Broken handle off of bolt.

[Ribbonstone]

I can afford it...just don't need it....doesn't do anything "extra" besides look good (OK...not always...some of those high dollar airguns look rather ugly).


But I'll let ya'll tell me where I'm wrong.

Small game
50 yards or under.

[TunedAccuracy]

I can afford it...just don't need it....doesn't do anything "extra" besides look good (OK...not always...some of those high dollar airguns look rather ugly).


But I'll let ya'll tell me where I'm wrong.

Small game
50 yards or under.

You may have missed this.

I have posted this before and nowhere does it apply more, than here. And now.
I have seen this debacle time and time again on rimfire central. Go back further to shooters dot com, before they shuttered the windows 14 years ago.
To this day it can be seen on Rimfire Central dot com. Average Joe buys the bargain brand then compares ( sometimes with highly exaggerated claims) to his CZ and/or factory spec 10/22 to an Anschutz, Kimber or Cooper.

Average Joe swears his 400.00 rifle is just as good as the three top tier brands, goes on to claim he saved more money for beer and ammo by purchasing the bargain brand and advises the masses to do the same ( because that's what he did). Meanwhile, the CZ forum gets hammered with problems consisting of everything from ( incurable)  horrible cold bore flier problems ( anywhere from 2 to 4 inches out in any direction) requiring warm up shots for the gun to become accurate ( rendering it utterly useless as a hunting tool) ; to bad barrels and groups that look like shotgun blasts. Along with a host of other accuracy robbing problems that are seldom, if ever seen, from the top tier brands.

Fast forward 2-4 years. Average Joe purchases his first Anschutz, Kimber ( no longer made in rimfire) or Cooper. Average Joe then does  a complete about face and goes on to praise this new love he has found while proudly proclaiming to the masses ," I don't know why I didn't buy one of these from the start."
It happens all the time, to this day.

[TunedAccuracy]

But I'll let ya'll tell me where I'm wrong.

Small game
50 yards or under.

Well. Ya know. You can do this with a 25 dollar sling shot. Why buy an airgun at all?
Spears. You can make a pretty nice spear at home out of a broom stick.
It may seem impossible at the moment, but if you practice with your spear you will be able to take game at 50 and under.
Who needs an airgun, spears are just as good.

[Ribbonstone]

Nope..didn't miss it...just doesn't seem to apply.

Yes...when it comes to "match rifles", there really isn't a cheap substitute.  Have had AA/CZ 200's (about $525) shoot within 93-95% of what a true match rifle can do....but at the level when you deserve a match rifle, that 5-7% is a "ship load".

Guess what...I can't measure the difference away from a bench, much less off-hand formal shooting.

And I can't seem (although I try to find) a real difference between shooting a $1200 rifle and a $200 rifle out in the hunting woods....and have yet to find it.



The hard core view..which may not be PC, but I still wonder about....is that some times it just massages your sense of self-wrorrth.  If you are in the 1% that can really take eek-out that 5%, then I  bow to the better shooter....but for most owners, it's a matter of "looky-me".

[Ribbonstone]

Yeah...LeRoy Guillie (now passed).

On a bet he took a deer with a cinder block.


took him two seasons.


But with enough time, from a tree stand, (and a salt lick) he managed it.

[Sfttailrdr46]

Ok I think the thread has run its course unless there are future posts that return to the op and on topic I will be locking it down

[Wayne52]

Also a member of the BBHC (busted bold handle club)...looks like it's not an uncommon problem.

My solution (about 9 months of use now) was to run a 8-32 tap into the existing bolt hole and put on an old Crosman bolt handle (maybe a 2260...maybe a Disco...don't remember where it came from).

Won't cut full depth threads, but enough for a good bite....and lock tite helps.


It's a little too thick.   Just a little hand polishing of the shank and it locks down with no slack.  Figured the "no slack" part was a "plus" as the orginals often have a little slack (we push them forward loading...if there is slack, it would give them a running start at smacking into the locking recess).

I drilled out the old stud on mine, retapped to 8-32 like you did, put new 8-32 threads on the old handle and it's still working.  I did think about using the Crosman handle but like you said the threads weren't long enough.  I admit the handle is kinda stubby but it still works good enough for me, eventually I might try making a new handle.

[avator]

Have yet to bust the bolts on any of my SPA guns that use this same breech and bolt setup. I've noticed them become loose and I just developed a habit of constantly checking them. I've put Teflon tape on each and I only use the bolt knob to open the breech. I use my thumb on the back of the bolt to close them. If you have any forward and backward play in the bolt when it's in the closed position, I recommend this be addressed. The bolt "slapping" when the gun is fired is probably not a good condition.

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

I received my free replacement bolt and handle from SPA.  It does not look like they have improved upon the original, so I suspect it's just a matter of time before it breaks again and I'll be seeking a more permanent solution.

Just curious, is the bolt handle from the CP1 the same diameter and tread size?  I may put that bolt handle on my Varmint since it's shorter, maybe it will hold up better.

Also, I was going to try and cut threads into the bolt handle that broke off my Varmint, and then put it on my CP1 since it would be shorter, but I can't seem to find anything that will hold it secure enough to cut the threads.  Is the bolt handle hardened that much that trying to thread it further is out of the question?  Thanks...

[Blacktalon6]

I received my free replacement bolt and handle from SPA.  It does not look like they have improved upon the original, so I suspect it's just a matter of time before it breaks again and I'll be seeking a more permanent solution.

Just curious, is the bolt handle from the CP1 the same diameter and tread size?  I may put that bolt handle on my Varmint since it's shorter, maybe it will hold up better.

Also, I was going to try and cut threads into the bolt handle that broke off my Varmint, and then put it on my CP1 since it would be shorter, but I can't seem to find anything that will hold it secure enough to cut the threads.  Is the bolt handle hardened that much that trying to thread it further is out of the question?  Thanks...

Use brass jaws in your vice to hold it without marking it. You can try some scrap oak if you do not have brass or copper for the vice.

[Rat Sniper (AKA: PaulT58)]

Thanks Ed!

[Wolverineshooter]

My pr900w varmint's handle broke last evening, developed an air leak as well. Thanks for all the info here, I will try some fixes. I may have to open up the gun to address the leak.j

[Ribbonstone]

My retap/Crosman bolt handle is still holding up.  rifle hasn't taken a dump or leak on me, still shoots to the speed and energy it was set for, and still plays around with MOA out to about 40yards (for 4 5-shot group averages).


As to the cheap vs expensive:





May tweak you, but I still find it true.  The cheapies do everything I do just as well for me. 

I can get a fraction of an inch difference in average group size at short range (like .19" vs .16" @ 25yards for +5 5-shot groups...not some single "put it in your wallet to walk around with group" ) with the high priced airguns.  So yeak, 3/100ths of an inch is better... would make a difference shooting for numeric score....but not $1000 better for anything else.

Brought firearms into this...really shouldn't, as in many ways they are simpler than airguns as the whole ammo/power system is a separate issue (but alike in that crappy ammo shoots like crappy pellets).

Have had Kinbers (really miss the Cascade), and being an older generation, Win 52's and 75's, alog with Rem. 540X's (miss the 540X too)....and one Anchults at the end (end being 2005 when the house and all in it was washed away).

This I discovered something with .22's using good ammo.  Good crisp trigger, fast lock time, good barrel, right chamber...and the cheap guns can shoot, and end up costing a whole lot less even with the custom work.

So yep...I baited some of the guys are the range, never did tell them what I was doing, but it's the concept of the "sleeper".   I'd show up with a massaged, rebarreled, rechambered, kind of worn and rusty on the outside .22 (like an old beat to poop Rem. 514).  I'd even take out the Eley ammo (or back then  often Federal F1 ammo) and put it in those big cardbord "milk boxes" of crappy .22LR ammo.   Optional (for scopes with turret caps) swap out the big name turret caps for ones that have "Gamo" printed on them....but I ususally used an old external adjusting Lyman or Unertle (and not their biggest expensive version).  After all, all the "up to date" shooters just KNOW those scopes can't shoot.

Let them draw their own conclusions...and none of them seemed to want to talk to me at the end of the day.

I don't take airguns to an official range much (if I'm making that trip, am going to shoot-big), but  have doen the same thing on occasion.  Dumpe the JSB's into an empty Gamo tin,  make sure you can't tell any of the mods from the outside, if rebarreled make it a barrel that looks like the original, make sure it has a littlw ear (rust is a bonus for this), and keep your mouth shut.


Point being that judging a book by it's cover (or an gun by it's evident cost) can make you leave the range looking for hey..waht the devil  is wrong with my expensive rifle.
 

[Wolverineshooter]

What tool do you use to tighten the pressure gauge?

[Sfttailrdr46]

Hey Ribby I'll be at the fun shoot  Bring it I'll have my Gamo Whisper Fusion to the fun shoot

[RobertMcC]

I will never understand why people will buy cheap junk.

Maximus and Disco handles break. But they put built in America.

It's thin metal that people put stress on. What you expect?

[Ribbonstone]

Lets put it this way.  The two co2 versions using the same revceiver / bolt system havn';t broken...and don't have near the reputation of breaking.  Same bolt.  But it's being yanked on a lot less (as the cocking effort is a lot less) and being pushed back against it's stop a lot less hard (as the push-back pressure is a lot less).

So I'm thinking that whatever the thickness/hardness of the issue bolt, it's "just enough" for the co2 versions, but not quite enough for the PCP versions.


As for making any shoot in the near future...I still work, and things are a bit hectic (we're down 3 staff members out of 8 and having a hard time finding replacements), so stringing together even 2 days off in a row is a major undertaking.  Had to go to my boss NOW to be sure she understands that come *(&^ or high water, I'm going to be off the first half of NOVEMBER.

So baring  getting fired, quitting, death, or a busted hip, doubt I'll find too many trips between here and there.

Did manage to get this whole weekend  extra-shift/call free, but have a .22RF relining project I've been itching to do.   But I will be thinking about that process in terms of airguns as well....as it occurs to me that relining a barrel is pretty much the same end product as sleaving one.

[avator]

I always push in on the back of the bolt and never on the knob.