TravisI will have to agree with Bob on the springs being counter wound would prevent any hang up or coil snagging from being able to occur. I know you say you have not experienced any that you know of but then also you cannot see the two springs in action inside the tube and hammer cavities that and the shot strings don't show any evidence of it being an issue. That does not mean its not occurring to some extent but not showing up in the strings.The counter wound springs have been used in high performance engines for several decades now and either the inner spring is counter wound to the outer or the inner is a flat ribbon style spring but still is counter wound to the outer and generally stiffer than the outer as well to control spring oscillations in high revving engines.It would be real beneficial if there was a way to watch the springs in action when cocked and released to confirm or deny the issue of snagging or hanging up in use. Possibly cut a window in the tube to use a camera to film the real time action when being fired and then replay in slow motion to observe the interaction between inner and outer springs.Just some thoughts in my head rolling around.Mike
Mike
What kind of ratio between the two springs? lbs per inch Are they about equal? or the inner 25% etc, lighter? The 22 mrod that I did the double spring on is reg'ed, but could start experimenting on. Ie both springs currently end just before hammer hits poppet with one of Scott's LW hammers. But, as you would expect, cocking is rather hard.
Quote from: FuzzyGrub on December 09, 2016, 01:38:41 PMWhat kind of ratio between the two springs? lbs per inch Are they about equal? or the inner 25% etc, lighter? The 22 mrod that I did the double spring on is reg'ed, but could start experimenting on. Ie both springs currently end just before hammer hits poppet with one of Scott's LW hammers. But, as you would expect, cocking is rather hard.I moved the spring adjuster to the end of the spring cap like I did on the SSG this frees up a lot of space and lets the stock spring set slack with the hammer not touching the valve poppet then on the inside of the stock spring I put in a slightly stiffer spring and will be trying to find one thats counter wound. I then tension only the inner spring till I get my desired FPS but both can be adjusted as well as the striker in the hammer though I left mine fully retracted to get the most spring travel.
The biggest issue I see with Travis's set up is blocking the air path from the hammer spring adjuster. This changes everything. Scott introduced me to this and yes, you can change almost 50fps if you cover the hole at the hammer spring adjuster with your thumb. Funny how things work but, I am glad to see the changes in systems.