HAve done it 4 ways.Easiest is to buy a QB79 (the tanker) and attach an HPA bottle rather than a co2 tank. Lots of posts here about that, and the plus/minus as well as the potntial dangers. Seems to be a very workable solution so long as the regulator (output pressure) of the HPA tank is in the normal co2 range.The above is tme most cost effective way into air.Can convert a full length QB78 the same way, but you have to cut the tube and add the tank block yourself. Do a careful job, and it can be stronger than the QB79's tank block attachment.HAve converted them by way of a HiPac conversion tube, although those seem to be no-more. Took a bit of adjusting and tuning to get it running well, but the conversion itself was simple.HAve replace the co2 tube with a longer 3K rated PCP tube. Not sure where to find full length, QB ready air tube today, but at least some converted Discovery tubes have been converted for QB use and there are still some custom makers that may undertake a QB PCP tube. Think this one I'd hunt up a reputable shop to supply as a custom made piece (so expect it will be costly).Just be sure you want to start this...getting one running well isn't without some effort on your part, which some posters find to be a PIA. Can find PCP's made as PCP's for a resonable price (just about $200 for a Maximus and Discos are often orrderd pretty cheaply as well).
Hey breTt,- Go to Amazon, they have the Tipperman 13CI tanks for $50.- Go to Zorro and buy a package of (12) .032 bellevue washers $6.- Go to Arccher Airguns to buy the needed tank block $34.- I have an AirForce Pump (new in box) for $130.- I have a pressure gauge you can borrow to measure regulator set-point for adjusting.- I cut my QB78 air cylinder with a pipe cutter and used diamond bit to clean up.- All other changes needed are pretty easy, especially for someone who is handy.Kirk
If indeed you end up going with a regulated bottle on a QB79, you may want to consider the "mini-valve" approach:There are two key benefits in my opinion:plenum volume - The 79 has very little volume feeding the valve and this approach maximizes the usable volume simplicity of the modification - It does not require fabrication of a spring guide or anything sophisticated. It can be done with nothing more than a handheld drill and a Dremel tool and some hand tools like hacksaw and files.You can read some additional details in these threads:http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=107182http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=104460
^X2.... Unless you pin the QB79 tank block, or use the JDS block and use high-tensile screws.... it would be best to confine your pressure to not more than the 1100 psi of the Ninja SHP regulator.... If you take the care to insure the tank block is mounted well, you can use up to a 1500 psi setpoint.... but in any case, with a stock QB tube, you must always use a 1.8K burst disc to insure the pressure in the gun can never exceed what CO2 can achieve on a 120*F day.... NEVER use a regulator that isn't fitted with a 1.8K burst disc on the output side....Bob
Hey Guys,I also wanted to say, converting these guns to HPA can be very dangerous if you are taking shortcuts, especially the mating of the Tank Block and air cylinder! This issue has been an ongoing concern; the GTA does not want these guns to be ongoing experiments by the unknowing or ill equipped, tinkerer.The conversion to HPA should only be undertaken by those who have the skills to do clean work with and understanding of the effects of 3,000 psi. Read Bob, Jason and Ribbonstone's posts before proceeding.Sometimes I'm too casual about the risk of HPA with the QB guns (they were NOT originally designed for this purpose). However, when done right, this is the Best Bang for the Buck (accuracy/cost) of any gun I know of .Kirk .................
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