Crosman 140

[Ryanp]

Hey, Ive got a Crosman 140 that was given to me that was once my grandad's. Is there any way to tell the year of the gun by the serial number? Ill post some pics up in a bit.

[Hedgeapple]

go ahead and post them pics, we love pics!!! I have restored a 1954 spoonbolt and am in process of restoring a 1957 140 Hawthorne!!! both for the Original owners( kinda Cool I think!!) although Im no expert there are several on here who can tell you what you want to know..
Larry

[Ryanp]

[Toolmaker]

 The cast trigger housing shows that it is the last model 140 which would be the 1960's. According to Crosman's site they made that variant from 1961-1968.

http://www.crosman.com/airguns/service/dates-crosman

 By the way, that's a nice lookin' 140!

[Ryanp]

Thats awesome, thanks for the help.

[Jogle]

Nice, parts are on the way to fix my Dads old 140.

[Jogle]

Put it back together and still leaks any ideas??

[1377x]

Put it back together and still leaks any ideas??

did you put a n

Put it back together and still leaks any ideas??

does it leak out of the barrel?
when pumping it up how before the air leaks out?

[Jogle]

Yes out the barrel. From the 1st pump.

[Toolmaker]

Yes out the barrel. From the 1st pump.

 Sounds like it's not cocking or it's leaking around the exhaust end of the valve. Try holding the trigger forward as you pump it the first pump or two. I tried lightning the trigger spring in my 140 and it leaked out the barrel. I could hold the trigger forward and it would pump. Went back to the original setting on the trigger spring and it pumps fine now.

[Jogle]

Thanks I will try that. Question is the felt piece on the piston for retaining lube or is it a seal?

[Toolmaker]

Thanks I will try that. Question is the felt piece on the piston for retaining lube or is it a seal?

 It's for lube. I personally use 30 wt. non-detergent motor oil.

[rsterne]

It sounds like either the quad seal is leaking.... the cup that contains it is either sticking in the outer sleeve and not sliding forward.... or the gun is not cocking.... They are supposed to "self-cock" after firing.... The spring at the back of the main tube shoves the steel cylinder that engages the sear forward, which in turn pushes on a pin that pushes on the rear cup on the valve.... You also may have put the cocking cylinder in backwards.... The taper goes towards the back of the gun and engages the sear.... at least thats how it all works on the 140's with the trigger mounted in the stock....

Bob

[Jogle]

Thanks again for fast responces the taper is towards the back. Will look at it again this weekend first time I have worked on any airguns, so its all new to me. I really enjoy reading this forum thats why I joined.
Jerry

[Jogle]

Took it down again still the same , how or can you manually cock this gun. Maybe the new seals (O-ring's) need to be a larger diameter.

[rsterne]

Does the cup on the end of the valve slide easily through the sleeve that surrounds it?.... Without the O-ring in place it should fall through.... Is the quad seal inside that cup in place and undamaged?.... If the answer to both questions is yes, then when you assemble the gun the spring behind the cocking cylinder should push everything forward and cock the gun.... Once it is cocked, it would then build pressure when pumped....

Bob

[amb5500c]

Ryanp, that gun appears to be in incredible shape to be so old.
Richard

[Ryanp]

Ryanp, that gun appears to be in incredible shape to be so old.
Richard

Thanks, it was well taken care of.

[Jogle]

Took it down again still the same , how or can you manually cock this gun. Maybe the new seals (O-ring's) need to be a larger diameter.

Looks like a small flanged tube is missing at the transfer port hole where the seal go's . Looking at some pictures of 140 repairs .

[rsterne]

Can you post photos of your gun?.... Even a photo from the top with the breech and barrel removed would help.... Better if it was disassembled of course....

Bob