Stainless PCP?

[PelletsForPests]

Yeah if you're willing to take apart your rifle, get it extremely EXTREMELY clean, and really take your time duracoating the gun in a manner that doesn't interfere with moving parts, it's your best bet by far.

I'd personally reccomend moly resin because it sprays on easier than duracoat and has a less reflective finish (the only serious downside to duracoated weapons)

That or duracoating AND adding waterproof gun wrap to reduce shininess.

Edit: cerakote is the best there is, but you're probably going to want to send your gun to a professional gun painter if you take it that far. Not an easy DIY process, and expensive enough that you had might as well get a custom finish.

[moorepower]

Norrell's Moly resin is top of the line. When is the last time any military gun was SS? I have never heard of a SS pellet barrel. Anodized aluminum is highly resistant to salt spray, which most receivers are. My ideal hand pumped gun would be a WAR .25 PRod with a CF shroud and a longer 304 tube. I don't know if Cothran does the PRod tube at this time. If I was hand pumping I would prefer to either keep the fill psi down or the tube volume down.

[akairgunner]

Military guns are never SS, but mostly because military firearms are designed to be "good enough for Joe".  They only budget like $650 per M4 (If I remember the figures correctly from the new FN contract). Plus the SS "flash" is easier to spot against natural backgrounds.

Looking at it, I'm probably going to go for a Ti tube with a Al receiver, and just put on a custom stainless bbl. Some sort of coating on the non-ss bolt components should finish it off nicely.

The airgun industry is spoiled in being able to use super-soft steel for barrel applications, and it probably just isn't worth investing in the next-level equipment for working harder alloys.

[benj397]

Did everyone miss that he will be hand pumping in this environment?  High humidity and salt.

[akairgunner]

Did everyone miss that he will be hand pumping in this environment?  High humidity and salt.

This is why I want a pretty high shot count. I can hand pump in a humidity controlled room then take it out to slay (we have several storage rooms that are kept dry for electronics). I'll also probably have access to other people's scuba equipment, but as I don't know that many people out there yet (I spent two summers but they were in remote field camps), so I can't count on it until I make some bar-room buddies.

Also, LW says on their website that some barrel blank options are newly available in SS. This shouldn't be too much trouble after all!

[Mod90]

SS isn't a good option really. Too hard to machine, not very flexible, costly, etc for use in a custom pcp.

Have you considered using a lower priced PCP like the AT 44 & applying 2-3 layers of cerakote?

[Ribbonstone]

Well the salt is a problem, both internally and externally...no good way around that....but the high humidity hasn't bothered my PCPs in the last 10 years. 

Are Titianium PCP's (Or at least partly Ti.) and that's a rear bear to machine compared to stainless.

Then again, I cannot remember a time when I actually had to refill while out hunting (so long as you don't get side tracked shooting cow pies, stray tweety birds, grasshoppers, pine cones, etc.). In my mind, it's like running out of ammo when Pb hunting....With a .22RF, if I have 25 cartridges in my pocket, I know I only take 25 shots that day...with a PCP filled, if it gets 25 shots, then I only take 25 shots.  If I want more, then go back to the car (in my case a Jeep) and take out the "back-up" rifle.


OK...if you are paranoid about moisture and the insides of the PCP tube, you can cure that if you've the heart/ability to take the rifle apart.

Silicon grease (real silicon grease).  Spread a real thin layer on the inside of the air tube when it's apart.

Real silicon grease will not "explode"; the stuff doesn't burn.  It's used on the insides of pumps, where the pressure HAS to be higher than the pressure inside the rifle (or else the air would never go into the rifle).  We do it by accident when we silicon grease and o-ringed PCP part and slide it down the tube.

[akairgunner]

Several things. I don't have a car out there, I am riding a mountain bike with a rack, 4 panniers and (if needed) a trailer.  A junker truck is over 4g out there, because they have to come out on the ferry, which only runs in the summer, and is quite expensive (fuel is expensive too).  Also, the shot opportunities run in the hundreds. One evening, over the course of 3 hours, I saw over 100 Norway rats in the seaside boulder jumbles.  I need lots of shots between fills.

Heck, it's sounding like I should pick up a stainless HW97 and not have to worry about fills, isn't it? 

Well the salt is a problem, both internally and externally...no good way around that....but the high humidity hasn't bothered my PCPs in the last 10 years. 

Are Titianium PCP's (Or at least partly Ti.) and that's a rear bear to machine compared to stainless.

Then again, I cannot remember a time when I actually had to refill while out hunting (so long as you don't get side tracked shooting cow pies, stray tweety birds, grasshoppers, pine cones, etc.). In my mind, it's like running out of ammo when Pb hunting....With a .22RF, if I have 25 cartridges in my pocket, I know I only take 25 shots that day...with a PCP filled, if it gets 25 shots, then I only take 25 shots.  If I want more, then go back to the car (in my case a Jeep) and take out the "back-up" rifle.


OK...if you are paranoid about moisture and the insides of the PCP tube, you can cure that if you've the heart/ability to take the rifle apart.

Silicon grease (real silicon grease).  Spread a real thin layer on the inside of the air tube when it's apart.

Real silicon grease will not "explode"; the stuff doesn't burn.  It's used on the insides of pumps, where the pressure HAS to be higher than the pressure inside the rifle (or else the air would never go into the rifle).  We do it by accident when we silicon grease and o-ringed PCP part and slide it down the tube.

[QVTom]

I would think stainless used in guns would be a 400 type like 416 these machine easy but not as rust resistant as the 300's steels used in marine applications.
So in a salt water IMO as stated above a good coating would be best.

Here lies the rub.  The only stainless that is truly marine duty is 316/321.  Great stuff but not really suited for major  gun parts due to its machining and inability to be hardened.  Stainless barrels are some variation of 400 (usually 416).  This alloy is chosen for mainly for reduced throat erosion and the ability to achieve better finishes than Chromemoly.  Corrosion reduction from elements is secondary.

Would a gun made of 400 ss work well in the harsh environment you describe.  Of course but maintenance would still be a necessity.

Tom

[akairgunner]

Is any of that relevant to air rifles? You don't get throat erosion like you do in PB's, and it doesn't need to be that hard with soft lead and no explosion.

I would think stainless used in guns would be a 400 type like 416 these machine easy but not as rust resistant as the 300's steels used in marine applications.
So in a salt water IMO as stated above a good coating would be best.

Here lies the rub.  The only stainless that is truly marine duty is 316/321.  Great stuff but not really suited for major  gun parts due to its machining and inability to be hardened.  Stainless barrels are some variation of 400 (usually 416).  This alloy is chosen for mainly for reduced throat erosion and the ability to achieve better finishes than Chromemoly.  Corrosion reduction from elements is secondary.

Would a gun made of 400 ss work well in the harsh environment you describe.  Of course but maintenance would still be a necessity.

Tom

[Ribbonstone]

Want the corrosion resistance more than the erosion resistance.


Just as an example.

My marsh shot gun (pump) started off life blued with a wood stock.

Parkerized the metal (which is ugly, kind of rough, but a very rust resistant).

Brownel's bake-on epoxy paint (black) over the Parkerizing.

Used the same super hi0-grade varnish on the wood that I'd use on a Teak boat deck (and renew it every year).

And I wax the metal and the wood with good old Johnsons past floor wax before going out duck hunting.

It is ugly....but it's no uglier now than it was in 2001.

A Pb rifle I use out in the salt march (mostly Nutria) is Stainless and plastic stocked.  I literally wash it off with a garden hose before bringing it in the house.  Wasn't "pretty" to start with, but after 20 years of use, it's no worse for wear.

There is probably a small market for a PCP that can take the abust of harsh climates...but it's a small market. Small enough that I don't blame the airgun makers (at least too often) for not filling it (and likely losing a pile of $ in filling that little corener).


I'm seriously considering a Maximus...to be parkerized (what metal they have is steel)...Brownel's baked on paint....and make it my "going down the bayou" rifle.  If (when?) I do this, will likely end up as a black plastic stock and a gray Brownels bake-coat.

[QVTom]

Is any of that relevant to air rifles? You don't get throat erosion like you do in PB's, and it doesn't need to be that hard with soft lead and no explosion.

I would think stainless used in guns would be a 400 type like 416 these machine easy but not as rust resistant as the 300's steels used in marine applications.
So in a salt water IMO as stated above a good coating would be best.

Here lies the rub.  The only stainless that is truly marine duty is 316/321.  Great stuff but not really suited for major  gun parts due to its machining and inability to be hardened.  Stainless barrels are some variation of 400 (usually 416).  This alloy is chosen for mainly for reduced throat erosion and the ability to achieve better finishes than Chromemoly.  Corrosion reduction from elements is secondary.

Would a gun made of 400 ss work well in the harsh environment you describe.  Of course but maintenance would still be a necessity.

Tom

Yes, it tells you why there are no SS barrels in airguns and why not many parts such as receivers either.

[JohnnyD143]

Yeah if you're willing to take apart your rifle, get it extremely EXTREMELY clean, and really take your time duracoating the gun in a manner that doesn't interfere with moving parts, it's your best bet by far.

I'd personally reccomend moly resin because it sprays on easier than duracoat and has a less reflective finish (the only serious downside to duracoated weapons)

That or duracoating AND adding waterproof gun wrap to reduce shininess.

Edit: cerakote is the best there is, but you're probably going to want to send your gun to a professional gun painter if you take it that far. Not an easy DIY process, and expensive enough that you had might as well get a custom finish.

I meant cerakote... I got all my "kotes" mixed up 

[LI Airgunner]

Is any of that relevant to air rifles? You don't get throat erosion like you do in PB's, and it doesn't need to be that hard with soft lead and no explosion.

I would think stainless used in guns would be a 400 type like 416 these machine easy but not as rust resistant as the 300's steels used in marine applications.
So in a salt water IMO as stated above a good coating would be best.

Here lies the rub.  The only stainless that is truly marine duty is 316/321.  Great stuff but not really suited for major  gun parts due to its machining and inability to be hardened.  Stainless barrels are some variation of 400 (usually 416).  This alloy is chosen for mainly for reduced throat erosion and the ability to achieve better finishes than Chromemoly.  Corrosion reduction from elements is secondary.

Would a gun made of 400 ss work well in the harsh environment you describe.  Of course but maintenance would still be a necessity.

Tom

I use 416 in my valve bodies

[enazle]

Considering the environment, you should stick with a .22lr in stainless. They cost less than $400 and it will be better suited for your needs. I love airguns but a realist also. Replacement parts and repairs are a huge consideration in a bush gun.

[wilsonj1018]

Simple solution, .22 mrod have the airtube powder coated black and no worries...
Josh

[Nomadic Pirate]

You are making way to much out of it !

I live by the sea ( with big waves that put a lot of salt in the air,...rust in any car over here is terrible ) .....I hunt in mostly rainy conditions, if not highly humid.

I only Hand Pump and my house isn't air conditioned.

I coat my guns with Ballistol and really take care of them,...never had one spec or rust develope and when I inspect my Airtubes they always been spotless.

So, again, you overthinking the all situation.

[MDStroup]

http://www.cothranmachine.com/

Talk to this guy. Guy great and very knowledgeable.

Just an FYI, he makes stainless steel discovery length PCP airtubes if you dont want a tank and stainless steel breeches. That will be the closes you can get to all stainless steel gun.

But if you want a high shot count go with a bottle. Ninja 3000psi bottle with either the qb79 tank block or the JDS tanks block, cothran machine 2240 pcp tube with one of his stainless steel breeches. the ret of the parts you can pick what you want. Heck a BMN breech would be awesome!

This would probably be perfect: https://flic.kr/p/JP94WV

[MDStroup]

DSC00047_1-1 by Michael Stroup, on Flickr

Lets see if that works.

[MDStroup]

chipper 25yds 061816_zpstctjna9v-1 by Michael Stroup, on Flickr

picture-1 by Michael Stroup, on Flickr


These are great options as well.

These are not mine. They are from members on this forum that i took inspiration from for my build.