Author Topic: Building a pump gun from parts (Read 4100 times))

Van · « **on:** June 30, 2016, 02:11:50 PM »

Here is my progress so far. I used a 2200 compression tube and link, a 2260 trigger pkg., a 2260 barrel, and a steel breech. The stock was from an un-inlet walnut special found at Numrich Inc. It also has a flat top valve and piston from Mountain Air Air Guns. Still working on the stock shape and butt pad. I hate to do the usual pins thru the pump arm, as I don't really like the holes there. It has a very tight fit in the inletting so I am thinking of Epoxy to set the lever link in the stock. That would be hard to change if the link needed to come out sometime though. Anyone know of a better way without the pin holes in the arm?

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Gertrude · « **Reply #1 on:** July 01, 2016, 12:56:34 AM »

I think the pins would be the beast way to go.
Perhaps if you were to plug the pin holes with wooden plugs, it might be an acceptable compromise?

bantam5s · « **Reply #2 on:** July 01, 2016, 01:39:07 AM »

Quote from: Van on June 30, 2016, 02:11:50 PM

Here is my progress so far. I used a 2200 compression tube and link, a 2260 trigger pkg., a 2260 barrel, and a steel breech. The stock was from an un-inlet walnut special found at Numrich Inc. It also has a flat top valve and piston from Mountain Air Air Guns. Still working on the stock shape and butt pad. I hate to do the usual pins thru the pump arm, as I don't really like the holes there. It has a very tight fit in the inletting so I am thinking of Epoxy to set the lever link in the stock. That would be hard to change if the link needed to come out sometime though. Anyone know of a better way without the pin holes in the arm??

man that looks awesome. For the holes I would also plug them with wood. ( take a piece of wood of the same type and cut plugs out with a tiny hole saw )
For the butt of the stock you should concave it slightly and groove it to give that vintage crosman look ( it might even be awesome to carve the crosman logo into the butt of the grip )

rangerfredbob · « **Reply #3 on:** July 01, 2016, 01:46:59 AM »

Nice, I'm contemplating something similar with a parts 140 that I have floating around...

Another option for the pump pins would be to mill or dremel out slots for cut down pins in the wood, then make metal straps that hold the pins into the pump arm with screws... would be more work but would be clean and I imagine you have enough room...

Kaibab · « **Reply #4 on:** July 01, 2016, 02:05:58 AM »

Man, that is looking good. Had the same thought, to build a pumper from parts. I can't wait to see how this turns out, so far it is looking solid. I agree with the other guys, screw the pump arm in and cover the holes with a plug to hide them. Personally, I would have the bolts exposed untill I knew I was not going to be pulling it apart.

Van · « **Reply #5 on:** July 01, 2016, 09:56:29 AM »

Thanks for the ideas here. It got me thinking about two ways to keep it clean looking. The slot for the lever is 1/4" wide, so I plan to drill holes in the bottom of the hollow of the lever for wood screws. I will then cut a slot in the top of the lever above the holes. It will be 1/4" wide for the screw head to fit in and just deep enough to get it below the wood. Two or three screws should do it. Plenty of room for this to hold the screws in the bottom of the routed slot. Lever links are inexpensive, so I may get a few to experiment with. The other, as suggested here, is to drill through wood and metal for pins of 1/8" di]ameter and plug with 1/8" walnut dowels. Will post some pictures when done for those interested. Here is a picture of the pump arm.

HectorMedina · « **Reply #6 on:** July 01, 2016, 01:17:16 PM »

I would substitute the linkage for a billet linkage and use bottom of the "U" mounted screws to hold the forearm to the pump arm.

JMHO

HM

Van · « **Reply #7 on:** July 01, 2016, 02:14:02 PM »

I have a billet pump arm on a 392 and it is amazingly solid, but don't know if anyone makes one for a 2200 tube. I think I will turn down the heads of wood screws to fit down inside the "U" of the lever and hold the wood arm on. Best idea so far I think.

avator · « **Reply #8 on:** July 01, 2016, 02:31:55 PM »

Quote from: Van on July 01, 2016, 02:14:02 PM

I have a billet pump arm on a 392 and it is amazingly solid, but don't know if anyone makes one for a 2200 tube. I think I will turn down the heads of wood screws to fit down inside the "U" of the lever and hold the wood arm on. Best idea so far I think.

I agree. I was thinking about counter boring the pins and using the little wood button plugs until I read this.

bantam5s · « **Reply #9 on:** July 01, 2016, 08:29:11 PM »

Make sure to use some epoxy on the screws.👍

Have you decided what to do about the butt ?
Carved slots or a blued Steel butt plate would look nice.

Van · « **Reply #10 on:** July 01, 2016, 09:45:58 PM »

Thanks David, Good idea to set the screws with a little epoxy to keep them from backing out. Should still be able to break them loose if needed to change the lever. I have a thin Pachmayr pad I may use on the butt. They feel just right to me on other guns. You can grind and sand to exact fit as you shape the stock. No recoil here, so any method works ok. I have long arms so a 14 1/2" to 15" pull feels great, I may just put the pad on as is and grind to fit.

mentolio · « **Reply #11 on:** July 02, 2016, 07:37:02 AM »

That's one fine looking rifle you've put together, Van. What are your performance expectations? I would love to see some Chrony data when you're ready. Great work!

Van · « **Reply #12 on:** July 02, 2016, 09:58:50 AM »

Hi Jeff, I did a Quick check over the chrony when I put the pump plant together. Only tested at 12 pumps because that's about the maximum number I want to pump. It averaged 678 fps. with crosman 14.3g pellets. There was only 2-4 fps variation between shots and dumped all the air. I have noticed on a new tube it usually goes up a little when broke in. Will post results at 4-6-8-10 pumps when done with the gun. It is much easier to pump than a 392, but with a bit less power. The best thing is you can change calibers easy and use a TKO. I used a 1377 flat top valve set back in the tube as far as possible to get more compression stroke and have the screw hole to mount the front of the trigger pkg. to the tube. What I love about Crosman guns is you can mix and match parts and make something unique. Parts are easy to get and won't break the bank to buy.

jolobolo · « **Reply #13 on:** July 03, 2016, 06:25:59 AM »

Now you have me thinking I have a box of bits and a bit if spare time. After seeing what you have produced I want to play with my bits. I love what you have done well done that man.

anuthabubba · « **Reply #14 on:** July 03, 2016, 06:40:10 AM »

Maybe some blind nuts/helicoils glued/pressed/secured into the wood so you could use allen/socket head 6~32, 8~32 machine screws.

Van · « **Reply #15 on:** July 03, 2016, 10:29:56 AM »

Thanks Terry, I never thought of the threaded inserts till I read your post. They are wood screws on the outside and machine screw threads on the inside. Drill a pilot hole and screw them in with glue. Then you have a machine screw threaded hole in the bottom of the slot. Then you drill a hole in the bottom of the "U" slot in the lever and fasten with a machine screw and Locktite. Glad I asked for ideas as all are good ones and I appreciate them. Will check to see how small these inserts can be found.

avator · « **Reply #16 on:** July 03, 2016, 01:57:56 PM »

I wonder if grinding a couple notches in the top of the U channel so one could use a larger head fastener/bolt/screw. Wouldn't need to be a lot bigger just to add a little more support. And just deep enough to be flush with the wood inlet. I sure like this line of thinking. Sure cleans up the pump handle.

Van · « **Reply #17 on:** July 03, 2016, 02:59:48 PM »

Your right Bill. As long as you get the head of the screw below the wood you are good, The larger the head the more support you have. I am going to do three screws in the bottom of the lever first. If that is not solid enough, I can slot the top of the U and use bigger screw heads. I am going to do a 392 next and don't want to drill on the outside of the fancy wood pictured below. I posted about these stocks on the machine shop- wood working gate here. Great prices on Calico Hardwood web site. $41. for the top stock , $25. for the bottom. You know, at these prices I may do my springers too.

avator · « **Reply #18 on:** July 04, 2016, 04:07:19 PM »

WOW !!! Those are beautiful !!! Visions are flying thru my head right now. I'm even seeing a custom Sheridan set in one of those. We've all seen one or two with damaged, mismatched or just plain ugly wood. Wouldn't that be special? I'm definitely going to visit that sight.... thank you.

Van · « **Reply #19 on:** July 04, 2016, 04:39:16 PM »

Bill, these are at the bottom of their catalog page on the site. You call or email them to get a shipping charge mine was about $10. shipping at the time. I sent a check, but they take credit card over the phone. These are usually put on high end Weatherby rifles. Mine only had tiny cracks in the figure which got them rated as seconds. Easy fix with some thick super glue as filler. You made me think, I may look for a Sheridan to put that top stock in the picture in instead of my 392. The hard work (shaping) is already done, just need to use the right size core box router bit for the tube and forstner bit for the for the trigger inlet. Then reshape any way you like. I practiced on this gun with a plain walnut stock and was surprised how easy it was if you think ahead and take your time.

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Building a pump gun from parts

Author Topic: Building a pump gun from parts (Read 4100 times))