Webley Tomahawk vs Tomahawk II

[stija]

What is the difference? I can't find anything online except for the two being different rifles, one newer and one older version.

I am looking into purchasing one from AoA and it is the older version. I dont mind paying 100$ more for something better, but i don't even know what the difference is.  Could someone post a link or explain what the difference is?

Thanks.

[Gut2Fish]

Longer barrel and Quattro trigger are the two things I see different between the older and newer II model. Pyramyd has the Tomahowk II for $260. Doesn't look like the Tomahawk is made anymore.

[stija]

Longer barrel and Quattro trigger are the two things I see different between the older and newer II model. Pyramyd has the Tomahowk II for $260. Doesn't look like the Tomahawk is made anymore.

Which has longer barrel? And AoA has a tommy i with Quattro trigger, so how sure are you of your statement?

[lefteyeshot]

It's the same gun. Why PA has "II" next to it I have no idea except they use to be made in the UK and by all accounts the old UK version is a much better gun. You can only get those used now. Now the Tommy is made by Hatsan in Turkey. It's basically the same gun as a Hatsan 95 but I think it's a much prettier gun.

If you look closely at the pictures in the PA ad there is no "II" on the gun. It's just like the .177 one I bought from AoA. It shoots good. The trigger out of the box seemed alot better than the Quartos in my other Hatsans. A friend who loves his TX200 like my Tommy.

It's not a German gun or an Air Arms but I think it's a nice gun for the money. $160 is a bargain and the $30 scope they offer with it usually cost $130. I already had one so I bought the gun and scope. $215 with shipping. With AOA takes a week or two sometimes to get the gun but it was worth the wait. They test it for free and send a chrony tape and a small photo of a five shot group both attached to a pamphlet with good info on it.

They mounted the scope. It was crooked but they were just shooting for group. I shoot better groups with it than they did but theirs' wasn't bad, touching but strung out. They double box it nice and the inner box had the same foam that's inside a hard case. Mines a keeper. If you look further in this Turkish gate or the UK gate I did a little review of mine and another guy did an extensive one. Later, Tim.

[Gut2Fish]

Older Webley Tomahawk- no Quattro trigger, 15 inch barrel:

https://www.pyramydair.com/product/webley-tomahawk?m=124

Current Webley Tomahawk II- Quattro trigger, 17 inch barrel:

https://www.pyramydair.com/product/webley-tomahawk-ii-quattro-air-rifle?m=3154

The gun has gone through minor changes over the years. Most recent are changes due to new manufacturer hence the Quattro trigger. If one looked into it it's also probably the same barrel currently as what's in say a Hatsan 125. Don't know, but hazard a guess the longer barrel is not due to performance rather it's already being made for another Hatsan. My guess is one of the model Hatsan has exact same length as the current Tomahawk barrel.

[stija]

I concur with your logic.

Does Hatsan make its own barrels?

[SteveP-52]

Actually, it would be the same barrel as what's on a Model 95 (I have both rifles), the difference being the ported muzzle break on the end of the Tomahawk is threaded, I believe 1/2-20 UNF and can be removed to screw on anything with that same thread. The actions are the same and both have SAS and the Quattro trigger.
From everything I've read on the Hatsans, they make all their own parts in house from raw materials and in the case of the Webley's, they're built by Hatsan using Webley and Scott specs which is why you see the much nicer looking walnut stock, the threaded break and no open sights on the Webleys but not on the Hatsans, which have  much plainer stocks and fiber optic sights.
Actual length of the Webley barrel is 15 inches and 17 inches with the muzzle break screwed on.

The one listed on PA is the same rifle as the one I bought from AoA, no idea why PA lists it as the Tomahawk II. AoA also has it much cheaper at $159.99 for the .177 and $169.99 for the .22, plus for $30 more, AoA will sell you the Hawke Vantage 2-7x32 AO IR scope and Hawke 2 piece match mounts. I already had one I got for my XS25 .22 and spent $129.99 for and is a very nice little scope so it was a no-brainer to get the one from AoA for $100 less. The .22 and scope was $199.99 and saved me $200 and I got a great rifle.

[Yogi]

Thanks Steve,

From what I understand, Hatsan not only makes all the parts for their air rifles, but they use "German Steel" for their barrels that is hammer forged.

For those Hatsan shooters that have mastered the back and up quattro trigger pull, would a "set-back" trigger blade help?
I find it "unnatural" to pull the trigger this way. 

-Y

[lefteyeshot]

It's not really back and up but something in between at an angle. I put my thumb on the back top of the stock near the safety and try to squeeze upwards like trying to squeeze my thumb and trigger finger together and in the process the only thing that moves is the trigger.  The thumb and trigger finger are the only real pressure I put on the gun with my firing hand.

[SteveP-52]

Thanks Steve,

From what I understand, Hatsan not only makes all the parts for their air rifles, but they use "German Steel" for their barrels that is hammer forged.

For those Hatsan shooters that have mastered the back and up quattro trigger pull, would a "set-back" trigger blade help?
I find it "unnatural" to pull the trigger this way. 

-Y

I'm honestly not sure if anyone out there even makes a set back trigger for or in the Quattro trigger pack. Tim aka lefteyeshot explained the trigger pull way better than me but I do it that same way and it works very well...at least when I remember to do it...lol

[Yogi]

Thanks Steve,

From what I understand, Hatsan not only makes all the parts for their air rifles, but they use "German Steel" for their barrels that is hammer forged.

For those Hatsan shooters that have mastered the back and up quattro trigger pull, would a "set-back" trigger blade help?
I find it "unnatural" to pull the trigger this way. 

-Y

I'm honestly not sure if anyone out there even makes a set back trigger for or in the Quattro trigger pack. Tim aka lefteyeshot explained the trigger pull way better than me but I do it that same way and it works very well...at least when I remember to do it...lol

I have tried it that way.  My groups open up dramatically.  Maybe I should try rotating my wrist forward?

-Y

[Gut2Fish]

I pull at a slight angle but never really thought about it. Too much thinking will open up your shot too. I modified the Quattro trigger with longer screws I ground rounded and to length I wanted using a dremmel. That made all the difference. That and not thinking. Beer and guns are an excellent combination. Dulls the mind enough to keep it simple- point and shoot;)

Seriously though, if you adjust the trigger so the release is crisp and not a long second stage like they are factory set you wont pull your shots. The screw barrel side of trigger is the real culprit there. Put it all in tight and if there is still too much second stage get a longer screw and grind it down. The screw pushes down on trigger plate so you want it rounded on end so it rocks easy for smooth action. As you pull the trigger it rocks on point of screw, being rounded will lessen pull force too. Get a couple 3mm machine screws, pull yours out and make a few tad longer, tad longer still and try them. The extra one really is in case you make it too short in grinding a nice circular tip. Made mine a scary hair trigger if all in so ground a touch more. It doesn't take much, the one in gun now is actually a tad too short for liking so need to do another screw when I get time to shoot again. Sugaring season is finally over but need to clean everything today and put away. Should have a day or two later this week for fun.

In case you don't know- the screw next to trigger is first stage travel. It hovers over the trigger plate until end of first stage pull then makes contact and is what finally pushes plate down enough to release sear. Any adjustment to first screw will change first stage travel so needs adjusting too. Gig is I couldn't find the exact screw from factory so got "grub" pan head machine screws from hardware store and small nut to fix thread after grinding. Makes for a nice finish low profile screw when all in. At 7 cents a screw it doesn't take much money to  get the trigger where you want it. Takes patients and several screws of attempts but very worth the effort. Safety first. Be outside and barrel pointed in safe direction when trying longer screw. It doesn't take much extra length to release the sear. And that's the point. You want it close so it's crisp.