Hatsan 95 vortex woes

[Gut2Fish]

I've made a gross error! So sorry. It's been so long and I'd done a complete tune at that time. You can not recock the trigger from the hole there. The long safety slide that connects to barrel arm needs to be removed and there is a slot there where you can reengage trigger by pushing second sear with small screw driver.

Just took stock off to fix something that was making the closing of barrel hard. Was that little V spring in above photo, I'd not pushed it all the way into place and it slipped off the pins. Anywho, while doing that I was taking a few photos to post here and when I got to cocking the trigger....uh...so am addressing this with photos in post below.

[Gut2Fish]

Ok, I'm back and figured it out. Nope, don't have to take out trigger block. Took awhile before I came back because I did and put it all back together. 

Alrighty, you only need to take off the slide safety that attaches to barrel arm. I'll resize and load up some photos I just took for that. That safety is in the way of where you will take a small screw driver and recock the trigger. So I wasn't too far off but I'm sure I've told others before and they were scratching heads from where I'd said to recock. I feel like a baboon.

Photos in few-

Top photo shows what you need to remove stock. Screw drive to remove lock screw, huge dull screw driver or old dull chisel to remove the nut then a punch to punch out the bolt. Other big philips screw is the one behind trigger, hole provided in trigger gaurd for you. Take stock off.

the next few are not in great order but the safety slid that attached to cocking arm needs removal. Take off the spring, take note of which end is which of spring. Do not punch the large pin, I've a photo of punch. Tap lightly only to move it past the safety slide. You don't want to push this big pin out as it holds the lower sear and you'll need to get into the trigger to fix it. So lightly tap to depress enough for safety slide to move out. Same with other pins the that go through slide. Push in with finger just enough for slide to slide on out barrel end. There is a small y metal piece that is actual safety you can remove.

Last two photos show that slide gone and pins pushed back so not going to fall out. Long slot that was behind the safety slide is where you put tiny screw driver and push middle sear back. Last photo shows the contact area of middle sear and top sear in hole of block I've been talking about. That is the contact point you watch as you screw down a longer screw to see it get smaller and smaller. Also where you lube. So that's it. Use slot area to reengage trigger with small screw driver and use window to lube those contacts with small kids paint brush and view contacts to ensure you've a safe amount. Mine is much more contact than I'd thought. I had it about a millimeter and that was too hairy a trigger when gun was cocked. Ended up grinding more after stock was on and think I ground a bit too much but easy fix right? 

[Old Corps]

Wow, that's outstanding Garrett. Especially appreciate the pics. Thanks for taking the time!

Ed

[Gut2Fish]

A few photos may show wrong side of trigger, I had the trigger block off and was grabbing photos to illustrate above. Like the punch and pin photo above looks like it's from when I was removing entire block so is actually wrong side of gun but hopefully people get the idea. There is two safety slides, one small with that V spring and other long that attaches to cocking arm. It's easier to take off the long one to reveal that slot to engage trigger.

Once I realized I misspoke about where to cock trigger I had to take it all apart to figure where and how I'd done it a few months ago when I tuned the gun. So a few photos are out of place from what I did today but did figure out how to do all this by only removing the long slide, and stock of course. So it does indeed work and not nearly as hard as it sounds once you see it all in front of you. The photo of spring reoved with pliers and last two photos are correct side and that's the small screw driver pushing back middle sear to reengage trigger. Last shot is of the two sear pieces in contact and where you'd use screw driver to separate and small brush to apply some moly paste or white grease or what have you lube.