Re-lubing the cylinder before replacing the piston!

[Oneshotwillie]

I bought a used TX200 that had an excessive amount of grease every where.  After everything was cleaned and before inserting the piston into the cylinder do you put a small amount of grease on the cylinder walls all the way to the bottom or just as far as you can reach.  If it is best to go all the  way to the bottom what do you use to put on a thin layer of grease on the walls of the cylinder?  Thanks in advance!

[Duckfish]

Watch this

[Roadworthy]

If you opt for a thin layer of moly in the compression tube, finish by wiping it back off.  A very thin coat will remain.  You can't get it all back out.  Any petroleum based lube remaining in the compression tube can and will detonate.

A wee bit of moly at the rear edge of the piston seal should be adequate.

[Springrrrr]

I bit the pellet (so to speak) and bought some overpriced, but perfect for airguns, Krytox grease that is not petroleum based.  I clean the compression tube of all other lubricants with a solvent like lacquer thinner or non-chlorinated brake cleaner, dry it completely and put a small dab of the Krytox on my finger.

Then smear it into the tube and distribute it as evenly as I can.  The TX200 has a nicely honed piston tube, straight from the factory, which allows for the lubricant to get into the small groves, much like the piston wall  honing marks in a car cylinder holds oil.

This method does not get the grease all the way down to the bottom of the tube, but a small amount of grease behind the piston seal takes care of the remainder of the unlubricated wall.

I have never had any dieseling problems with this method and it gives good chrony results.

[Mark 611]

I agree with RW! you can burnish moly into the compression chamber but IMO like RW if you don't know how to do so just a little moly on the back of the piston seal is the best way to go! if you get just alittle to much lube in the compression chamber it will go boom!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and that's not a good thing!

[Kailua]

In the tutorial by CDT he uses Superlube with PTFE.  I instead used Liquid Wrench dry lube with PTFE and seems to be holding up well.

http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=26274.0

Also honing the cylinder may help also.  As mentioned in the tutorial.

[nced]

I bought a used TX200 that had an excessive amount of grease every where.  After everything was cleaned and before inserting the piston into the cylinder do you put a small amount of grease on the cylinder walls all the way to the bottom or just as far as you can reach.  If it is best to go all the  way to the bottom what do you use to put on a thin layer of grease on the walls of the cylinder?  Thanks in advance!

When I used molly paste for a piston/piston seal lube I would strip and dry the receiver/compression tube, wipe a THIN band of molly paste around the side of the piston seal and piston skirt, install the piston with seal, then cycle the piston back and forth a few times to transfer some molly paste to the receiver/comp tube, then start shooting the "break-in period". This kept the molly paste from being squeege'd in front of the piston seal to diesel. I switched over to Krytox a couple years ago and lubing my springer isn't so tedious since it won't diesel even if it gets in front of the piston seal. I like the Krytox so well that all my springer internal lubing is done by casually wiping a thin coat of Krytox on everything and reinstalling.

[cca50]

I bit the pellet (so to speak) and bought some overpriced, but perfect for airguns, Krytox grease that is not petroleum based.  I clean the compression tube of all other lubricants with a solvent like lacquer thinner or non-chlorinated brake cleaner, dry it completely and put a small dab of the Krytox on my finger.

Then smear it into the tube and distribute it as evenly as I can.  The TX200 has a nicely honed piston tube, straight from the factory, which allows for the lubricant to get into the small groves, much like the piston wall  honing marks in a car cylinder holds oil.

This method does not get the grease all the way down to the bottom of the tube, but a small amount of grease behind the piston seal takes care of the remainder of the unlubricated wall.

I have never had any dieseling problems with this method and it gives good chrony results.

Bob,
I took it one step farther. I did some research (along with a bunch of PM's) and ended up using Super Lube 91003 Silicone High-Dielectric and Vacuum Grease very lightly on the mainspring and guides. That has eliminated all petroleum based lubricants from inside the air rifle. I had to clean all the parts 3 times to insure no old lubes might be on the parts causing cross contamination. There is no chance of dieseling or detonation now. With all stock parts, except the piston seal that was not readily available in the TX200 MK2 .22 cal, it is now up to 16.8 fpe using H&N FTT 14.66 gr. Over 400 pellets shot now with no problems.... knock on wood... Taking into consideration, this is from a used 2001 model that did not appear never had any maintenance done, shooting less than 13 fpe before it broke. I don't know which gave up first, the cocking shoe was broken, the piston seal was in pieces with a weak mainspring.
Charles

[Springrrrr]

Excellent.  Your research did you well.

Bob

[Nitrocrushr]

I bit the pellet (so to speak) and bought some overpriced, but perfect for airguns, Krytox grease that is not petroleum based.  I clean the compression tube of all other lubricants with a solvent like lacquer thinner or non-chlorinated brake cleaner, dry it completely and put a small dab of the Krytox on my finger.

Then smear it into the tube and distribute it as evenly as I can.  The TX200 has a nicely honed piston tube, straight from the factory, which allows for the lubricant to get into the small groves, much like the piston wall  honing marks in a car cylinder holds oil.

This method does not get the grease all the way down to the bottom of the tube, but a small amount of grease behind the piston seal takes care of the remainder of the unlubricated wall.

I have never had any dieseling problems with this method and it gives good chrony results.

Bob,
I took it one step farther. I did some research (along with a bunch of PM's) and ended up using Super Lube 91003 Silicone High-Dielectric and Vacuum Grease very lightly on the mainspring and guides. That has eliminated all petroleum based lubricants from inside the air rifle. I had to clean all the parts 3 times to insure no old lubes might be on the parts causing cross contamination. There is no chance of dieseling or detonation now. With all stock parts, except the piston seal that was not readily available in the TX200 MK2 .22 cal, it is now up to 16.8 fpe using H&N FTT 14.66 gr. Over 400 pellets shot now with no problems.... knock on wood... Taking into consideration, this is from a used 2001 model that did not appear never had any maintenance done, shooting less than 13 fpe before it broke. I don't know which gave up first, the cocking shoe was broken, the piston seal was in pieces with a weak mainspring.
Charles

EXCELLENT work Charles   Glad to hear that TX is back in action

Steve

[anuthabubba]

Some general info. Wrong thread but still useful info.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1240111527/The+Anatomy+of+a+Tune-